Hi guys, I completed build of my second chuck glider today and i have learnt a lot since few months back when i built by first model. I have compiled this post to share a few techniques i used which makes for easy building.

Here i have used a BOREAS kit which i bought from THE GLIDER SHOP.  It is very simple and a good starting point.

PIC 1 : Boreas kit.

PIC 2: The parts have been sanded. Wings recieve their airfoil profile, all Edges have to be curved.

PIC 3: I have tapered the fuselage. ie, fore section (B) is narrow and width increases as we move towards aft section (A). This helps move the CG forward and towards the wing section - as a result i had to use almost negligible plasticine which keeps overall weight low. I also have sanded the tailplane section to minimum thickness - just strong enough to not break.

PIC 4: The parts have recieved two coats of lacquer. The wing sections have been joined using fewiquick. The wing edges to be glued have to be prepared by sanding to achieve clean fit to form the dihedral.
The tail and stabilizer has been attached. To help align the stabilizer follow similar procedure as pic no. 5

Now the important part : aligning the wing section. The accuracy here goes a long way to improve flight characteristics.

PIC 5: Place the wing on the fuselage and use clay to hold it in place at the leading edge as shown. The fuselage should rest without and help since stabilizer has been attached.

PIC 6 : Attach a piece of string to the tail with cellotape for later use.

PIC 7: First step is to make sure that both the wing tips are at same height from the reference (table top). Make adjustments as needed by raising or lowering either edge. Press the clay to hold this new position.

PIC 8: Hold the string to touch one wing tip as shown. Mark this point on the string using a marker. Now hold the string to the other wing tip - the mark on the string should be at the wing edge. If not make adjustments as needed by moving the edge forward or backward. Make sure to press the clay to hold the position after any adjustment. (The scale is used to highlight the string - no measurement required using the scale)

Repeat step 7 and 8 to achieve a proper balance. Once satisfied apply a drop of fewiquick at point B in PIC 5 without disturbing the setup. When this dries remove the clay and glue on the underside. THATS IT. Simple technique to get a good balance.

NEVER use the fuselage as reference to check if the wing is aligned properly as the fuselage in most cases are bent ( the wood is bent in the kit) . This can cause inaccuracy.
The wing may look funily placed but its the way to go for good flight.

Here are pics of the completed glider :

This time i made sure the glider is very very light and the cg was below the wings. I have used 15 % to 20 % clay as that required for my previous model.
I have not tried it in the field yet but the test flight in my long hall were very rewarding. It covered 40% more distance compared to my first glider for a similar launch force and angle.

Any comments to improve build techniques will be helpful. 

Would you be available to conduct the next Training Camp at Guwahati?

Bravo my boy, Bravo! 

Haha i would love to when i visit Thank you VC

Here is a video.- It was toooooooo windy. Excuse poor video quality as it was taken on phone and i was alone.

Lacquer:
This is used for three reasons:
1: To waterproof the model.
2: To give it strength.
3: To make it shiny shiny

Here is what you will need:
1. Lacquer- This is a clear wood varnish like stuff (shown in the pic - in glass bottle). You can get it from a hardware store.
2. Thinner - Again from paint store - i paid Rs.35 for 500ml.

The above two will last for many models so if you intend to use only on one model DO NOT BUY! Borrow it from someone.

3. Cloth for obvious reasons.
4. Paint brush.
5. Container to mix lacquer- Do not use plastic ( I made this foolsh mistake)
6. Talcum powder.

Procedure:

1.After the parts have been sanded with a fine sand paper (120 grade) and then with finer sand paper (400 grade) dust it well with a cloth. Mix a small amount of lacquer + thinner + talcum powder. The talcum powder gets into the tiny depressions ( i had to deal with a lot of these!) and help with a smooth finish. Apply a thin coat on all parts - do not apply excess. Make sure you do not apply on the faces to be glued. Allow to dry. This may take a hour or so.

2. Once dry you will notice the balsa stands out - like pimples on a teenage face Sand thoroughly (grade 120). The excess talcum powder will rub off - remove as much as possible by sanding. Sand again with grade 400. The wood will be very smooth to feel now.

3. Dust with cloth. Apply a coat of lacquer+thinner. No talcum powder here. Allow to dry and sand with grade 120 then 400.

4. If you feel a third coat is required go for it ( i always use 3 coats).

The parts will be smooth and shiny now.

Personal view:
I fly my glider in the field and it tends to get dirty. Since the laquer is water proof i wash the model with water and soap, followed by a rinse with detol. The lacquer will also protect from scratches and impact damages  and has helper keep my glider as good as new. Really usefull so do not neglect the lacquer if you want long glider life.
Cheers!

Few videos, improved flight





In the second video it glides for a while just off the ground - guess its not visible in the video

post pics after you apply Lacquer.

It is GREAT to see your interest levels!

Pics. Notice how water doplets slide away like water on an oil covered surface.

Why not made ur own lacquer  by using only thinner ?

Just use thinner as solvent and make Glue stick solution (You may use babyfood milk pouch also). Then apply this using brush. A thin coat will generate (Anti friction).

Another cheap antifriction coating method I use specially for wing, Apply Fevicol Marine diluted and wrap with thin carrybag. Of course, check so that no air buble reside or no fold reside. - Aditional Advantage - You get Coloured wing..

Thanks

Wont the glider fly better indoors- say in an indoor auditorium. Also, whats the weight of the glider. Looks like a lot of clay on the nose for balance. The dihedral also is pretty high - may be that's the design.

Quote from: KALYANPRODHAN on October 26, 2010, 09:05:56 AM
Why not made ur own lacquer  by using only thinner ?

Just use thinner as solvent and make Glue stick solution (You may use babyfood milk pouch also). Then apply this using brush. A thin coat will generate (Anti friction).

This is good, I didn't knew you can do that. Can the thinner milk pouch solution be used to make cotton cloth water proof, like for making a kite.

Thanks VC I didnt find info like this when i was making my glider. All the inputs from RCI members helped a lot so put all those tips in one place.

Kalyan i didnt know that. Il try it. Thanks

Tg : the glider flies beautifully outside - the video was one random trial It flies well indoors too but only tried it in my hall as i do not know any indoor stadium I dont know the weight as i dont have a balance. The clay isnt much because the nose part is quite thick to keep cg in check. The pic was taken after glide tests in my hall. On field i use about 60% - 70% of whats shown. The dihedral was according to plan - even i feel its excessive.

@KALYANPRODHAN plz answer my question.
Can the thinner milk pouch solution be used to make cotton cloth water/air proof, like for making a kite

This is why one needs lacquering

Yes, you can use it safely. But dont think sharp thread (Manja) cannot cur your thread. It only waterproof your thread.

Another information, for cannon fuse, the cotton string (Loosly wooven thread known as ELO SUTO) is first covered with glue and black powder (chemical mixture that burns), dried and then covered with the solution of lacquer. after drying, it becomes waterproof and can be burnt and continue burning even in underwater too.

Therefore, your kite string will surely be waterproofed by using this. But remember, don't apply on thread real or wound in any material. but wet it loosly so that during drying, one string cannot get stuck with another (Self loop or like that.) even don't dry winding  over any plastic body.

Thanks

i think i didn't put my question properly.
i meant the cloth for the kite, as an alternative for ripstop nylon cloth. 

Just go and buy a Car Cover. That is Rip Stop material and you can make 50 kites out of that, if not more. I am using that for my Hovercraft skirts.

Sorry, I just read quickly and for phone of rohit for hot wire cutter problem, I misunderstand and answered.

VC is right. That is the most cheap and affordable one and the best one. Just search the videos of Srinivasan of Kohinoor kite club where he makes even large 3D kites with rip Stop Nylon and folding arrangement with Velcro and Aluminum Spar.

You can make triangular hang glider type wing too with this material as well as covering material (Not better but still good).

Thanks.

car cover it is then

Made a HAWKER HUNTER Chuck glider today. Had got this one from VC. Took about 5 and a half hours to finish. I am quite particular about how my gliders are made Took quite some time to cut weight - the fuse was quite thick. Fuse sanded to decreasing thickness - thin at the tail - to save weight. Tailplane tapered for the same reason. Two coats of lacquer with a lot of sandng for protection. Will fly her tomorow morning

Attaching pics..

More pics..

Nice joining of the craft..these are the Catapult ones right?