Good after noon all of my friends..by yesterday i red an article, here in our forum, was about a toy RC vehicle, and the query was to make it in to high performance..here i am posting some of my conversion works all on "cheap toy cars",but after reworks all it are awesome..
from here all you can see how simple it is to alter a "cheap car" in to a high performance one..all it needs good interest, patience and dedication.no money is spent here ..
i got this car from a duty paid shop, run by my friend, in Thalassery town.he and many of my other friends always collects many broken, damaged unused toys and crafts for me.i paid nothing for this car, but he told me that it costs about Rs 400/-.i also got some more cars and geeps from him,as big ones.at first i am sharing with my conversion, of this lovely car, in to 1.5 feet long racer. its original color was in silver but i changed it in to deep orange from Asian paints, and all hand painted. nothing is removed for high performance here but all with some simple conversion.

the big head ache is related to a toy car is its motor and it's driving circuits. most of the toy vehicles will be in to 6 volts,or in to 4.8 volts.most of them are based on drycells. so the motor and driving circuits also will be with less handling capacity.most of the RX drivers will be with 8050, 8550 transistor paired, so it can only go up to 700 mA maximum. if we try to increase the input voltage the BJTs will burnt off. and yes the motor. so, first of all we have to alter the motor and driving circuit conversion.in my experience, most of the toy gear boxes are too good for its size and price, and i made many heavy proportional servos with toy gear boxes,working well and i used all it in sail boats and wing changing mechanisms in wind tunnel.
so, whenever we got a toy car, we must go for the motor first.we can use a high power motor, in to the same structure, but making sure of the can size.some motors will be very expensive. so the cheapest alteration is reworking on present motor. we can simply alter the motor specs to our needs, and voltage ratings. it needs only some good knowledge in Electronics and mechanics.yes some patience and precision.
the first alteration is on the brushes of the motor. we can add graphite brush leads from a scooter starter motor, or from any 12 volt starter motor.

after brush setups,we can enter in to the armature setups.we can simply rework on any motor according to our plan.
we can buy winding wires from electronic shops, in SWGs.less winding with heavy wire will give a high rpm,and vice verse.

one of the main criteria that we have to take care about is the over heating of the motor.all toy motors may based on poor quality magnets, so the performance of the given magnets may reduced as heat increases. we can collect strontium, or rare earth magnets, but will be costlier, but our motto here is inexpensive way..
we can add heat zinks to the motor by aluminum sheets.
we can also add additional gears to the motors in a need, to cope with high rated rpm.

so, as the first step, we reworked on motor and brush.now time to think about the driver circuit. all toy driver circuits are based on less capacity options. so adding a high amp motor in to the present circuit set up will blow off the BJTs instantly.PCB will burn..and total failure..
so we must make an additional circuit for this.simplest option is the PWM.if so, we can simply feed the PWM unit, from motor input from the RX board.we can also use P channel and N channel MOSFETs for our needs.so, instead of driving the motor directly, we can drive the motor through the PWM ESC, by the present RX board.we can use either voltage mode, or pulse mode from the Rx board, from its mixer oscilator section.most of the toy radios will be with RX 2B MCP.
here i am adding a simple ESC setup, lasts for a life time, proven for years, can hold up tp 60 Amps,in 12 Volts.it can drive a CR 800 motor with ease in 12 volts. but sizes within a match box.

sorry for the power failure..we can also use Power transistors instead of MOSFETs, but make sure all used transistors are Darlington pairs. if not your ESC will not last even for a minute.avalanche effect will take place inside the transistor junction will destroy itself.we can use many of the power transistors, can configure as darlington pairs, here can see a TIP 3055, can wed with SL 100 transistor.
we can also use pulse based relay drivers for big spaced vehicles.can add any relay rates from 1 amps to 300 amps. but i prefer the ESC with MOSFET s.its cheap and lives for a life time.

we can add heat sink to any ESC to cool it down in an extreme use.here can see a heat sink from a CPU, and works well.it weighs only some grams.can also use a heat sink from a CPU with fan, this helps in boat or ship modelling, as we can avoid complicated water cooling systems.it can also use in brushed and in BLDC motors.

we can feed the wire of the CPU fan to the throttle set up, so can alter the fan speed according to the motor RPM.here is my set up..can cool up ESCs up to 120 Amps, or big or small BLDC and BDC motors.

here the motors..
showing the reworked motor set up..in the real toy gear box differential.you can see the simple tiny motor here..but it roars when throttle applies..

showing the final drive..sorry for the slow connection speed..

we can use the same radio for the vehicle, and need not under estimate the toy radios. some of my toy radios gave me a range of 1.2 km in a stretch.and can increase transmitting power by simple additional circuits.

we can use any toy RX with same frequency, and can fine tune with local oscillator, or from mixer.can also add SAW filters to avoid any unwanted disturbances.

its ready for the show..in hands of my daughter..showing its sheer size..
and in the hands of my ever favorite ship and aeromodel student..

its stunning..we tested it at long beach, in neep tide time, along with scooter, and she climbed in to 48 Kms /H with scooter in a parallel run.all in 7.2 volts.the car is powered by a simple 7.2 volts 2 cell LiPoly battery. previously it was powered by a battery pack of NiMh, 3A made at home.in both cases it worked well, but LiPoly gave me more running time,in a single charge.

so, i will continue my toy RC vehicle conversions..next will be these two..
and yes sure see the cool video..

Friends..here we can see how simple it is to convert a toy car in to a master piece.i spent nothing as special for this..only took some effort ,time, and dedication.so please dont trash your old RC cars or vehicles..we can convert it in to a great one..simply..without any big price tag..its simple..

30 mph is really great. Good job

thank you Human..and i will try with a 9 volts battery as i get time and friends.but started to work on bigger car by yesterday, it will be with a 3600rpm /volts BLDC and a 11.1 volt 3 cell LiPoly battery..still working on it..

when the video was shooted the voltage was restricted to 5.6 volts to avoid over drifting and too much over steering..i will post a good video of speed test with my friends soon..along with big one..also..

sir i have become ur fan

 

can u pls send me the schematic of ESC.....