Friends..one of the most versatile motors are found in CD drives..it can be used in small planes,  small ships, and small boats..small is not much small, but in my expiriments it is capable of driving a craft with above 36 inches and with a weight of 1200 grams..its nice..so, all we know, an original CD drive brushless motor is meant to work on 4 to 6 volts on a CD drve itself..and the original winding will be poor..means in actual set up it needs only a very less power..but here we have to rework on it simply..rewinding a brushless motor is far easy..and in my studies, we do not change the exsisting magnetic ring from motor..but you can change the magnetic ring with newly purchased strontium, or rare earth magnets..but especially for baot modelling the original ring is far enough..so we starts here..

first of all remove the motor from the drive..snd simply remove the cup for holding the CD..while holding it on a bench vise..remove the outrunner..now we can see the thin windings..for lighter application, you do not rewind the motor, but can use as it is..

now, find an end wire, and wrap out gently..

now, we have the bare laminated hub in hand..make sure insulations are sound..if found missing, you can simply add it on by applying a little PU paint on it..

keep things coming sir..

now, time to rewind..we can buy any SWG copper wire, from shops who deals fan materials, and yes from many electronic stores..please try to buy HD copper wire, slightly costs higher once..but this additional 10 or 20 Rs will gives us a very extreme performance in working..these type motors are best valued in 7.4 to 9 volts..here you can see 26, 30, 35 SWG wires..can purchase in 10 grams to Kilos..here i purchased all as 50 grammes..

slow connections..

now start winding..you can see the simplest method, here..its all simple..you can decide the guage or turns of the coil wire, according to you..but to me it is best on 26 guage, with 17 turns on a pole, on these motors, and 26 guage, with15 turns on even tiny motor..you can try with more gauged wire, with single strand, for various purpose..
wind in same pattern, in 120 degree each..this compleates a PHASE..

take some little pieces from masking tape, or a paper, then mark the starting the winding as S1( 1st pole starting), and E1( end of winding pole 1), and follow to all wires as S2, E2----S3, E3..because after full winding you will lose your orientation about the windings..this marking helps us further notice easier..
wind the second poles..and thirdth..will add a clean winding pattern..follows..

now..you must decide how you finalize your wiring..you can conclude it in to STAR, or DELTA, yes..no need to scratch your head..no more technical complications..but those are two methods of wiring for running the motor..simply, if you use the STAR connection, the motor will consume less battery, and will be in to less RPM, better for boat modeling, heats less, but DELTA, is for high RPM, with high battery consumptions..for aircrafts..connection diagrams follows..and finally, if you are in to DELTA, it will be better as an all around performer..

here i completed in as DELTA..
replace the outrunner and put the E clip or plastic clip on shaft to lock..test video..and more clear pictures and diagrams follows...for boat models, we can use reduction gears for further torque, and saving battery..as these motors are much powerful than a brushed one..above motor is equivalent to two RS 400 motors while consuming very below half of those motors..and it weighs 12 grams, and sized in to 10 mm thckness, and with a cup size of a 1 Rupee coin..!!

sir should we join all the startings together and all the endings together in delta??

NO..Manu wiring diagram follows..please wait a little..

sir got it
http://www.bavaria-direct.co.za/models/images/CD_Delta_diagram.gif

nice..will add now..

I think star is like series connection and delta is like parallel connection.

this link is so useful for motor winding


http://www.bavaria-direct.co.za/models/motor_info.htm

Roopeshji.
i have Bind one of my motors , which have 6 magnets and 9 poles. It is a high rpm motor.
But there is a bit of problem i have seen .  The motor never starts smoothly, it gives a jerk and make some sound and then it starts, sometimes it donot start at all. Again i try to start and after same jerk it starts on. I have tried with different ESC but, the problem remains the same. I rewinded it 2-3 times, some time clockwise and anticlockwise also, but no benefit.
Could ant one explain me why is this happening or how the issue can be resolved.

MY motor images are here in reply 88
http://www.rcindia.org/electric-power/can-this-bldc-motor-be-repaired/75/

STAR diagram..

DELTA..

oh..sorry Swiz..it happens because of these things..please refer the diagrams for poles and winding procedures, and i hope, in a google search, you can find lot more diagrams, but need not any complications..please make sure that your winding is perfect, means, in same diagramatic, and make sure all made connections are sound and as per diagram..a wrong polarity connection makes motor as short, in effect, so the ESC will trip instantly..if the connections are ok, please check these..

these tiny motors are capable of 7.2 volts to 9 Volts..so, at 12 Volts or more the ESC senses it as a short circuit, because of the very low impedance of the tiny coil..so, please make sure it is at below 9 volts..

before start, please optimize the throttle range of your Radio set..

set the timing of the ESC to a specified value, after refering it's instructions..and set it for smooth or soft start..it will work..i am working on lots of motor by this time..and none of them are not a trouble, but only one, to me, but was because of the wrong connection..then rectified..at present, i am using these motors 99% of my works..because, when compared, to brushed motors, these are Kings..in performance..without heating up..no maintenance..little space..

if you face still problems, i will courier you one motor, as reworked..dont worry..

Thank you Roopeshji.  
I have already tried it on a 2s lipo, and esc is also programed for soft start. Winding is same as shown in Your STAR diagram. But The Problem still exists.
If some time it starts after 2-4 tries also it consume the battery a lot. But it starts occasionally 

if, so, its clear some thing wrong in winding..may be due to wrong SWG used, or may be shorting some where..please hold..i have some brand new motors with me..in to 4200 and 3600 RPM..and actually, i am going to alter its original windings for lower RPM, and greater torque..i will look in to, and if possible, will send you one brand new motor, to you, and you must send your motor to me, as i can rectify it easily..anyhow, i have to rework on those new motors..as i do not need such high RPM..may be useful to you..

and i faced same problem, once with 9 pole motor, but later i rectified it with sequential winding as 1, 2, 3..so dont worry..

Thank you Roopeshji, please Pm me your address, i will send you my Motor. 

Ok..Swiz..actually, anyhow i have to tamper it's original winding..for a low RPM..so, it will be helpful to you..but still my need will fulfilled..with your motor..sending a personal mail to you with my postal address..cheers..

Very useful info! Thanks Roopesh Could you also tell us on 26gauge, how many turns are needed to get a low rpm/high torque config for a 3D foamie? lets say like 1000kv or less.

Sam, in reality, none of any CD drive motors are intended for RC modeling..but, we can convert it easily..main criteria here is, the size thickness,and type may vary from company to company..some motors are too small in dia..so, i tries to avoid it..but, have some motors, clearly, sizes to 2.5 cms works great..but if you have a motor in to 3 cms, will be even better in performance..to me, for a 2.5 cms motor, with a 26 guage HD copper, a 17 to 18 turns will gives us enough power with a 8X5 prop at 7.2 volts..can also try with 35 SWG, in two strands, or with24 SWG in single strand, and try to wind turns as tight as possible..and some trial and error method will give you a good results..by last week, i fixed more than 17 motors in various crafts including some slowest flyers..and, boat models are too heavy, in load compared to aeromodels, but still these motor behaves much much greater in performance..you can also drill two holes in outrunner, on an arbor, so, cooling will be even better..and if you remove the back plate of the motor, you can simply fix it on a aluminum pipe, or a flower type heatsink, will gives us even more cool motor..these motors works even with battetries i took from small helis, and its a treassure to make small aircrafts..will add more of my research and test experiences here..simply and briefly, these motors have changed my modelling life in to a great extent..towards positive..battery saving is the main key here..i made a rough hover craft now, and previously, i was using some brushed motors eats battery soon..but with these reworked motors, noise disappeared, and thrust became awesome, all with a very long battery time..the boat, ran on RS 380 motor, gave me a timing about 15 minutes, in moderate performance..but after fixing a reworked CD motor, it flies over water in nose up attitutde, and ran about an hour without heating up battery..cool..working on some motors..will update you, what configuration is best..but it is sure, for aeromodels, its DELTA..

Thanks Roopesh! Seems very interesting. Will try it out. Please post some of your work so that we get to see its various applications. Your thread is very inspiring. Keep'em coming

Sure Sam..will add my works here and will share all good stuffs..