Thanks Roopeshk ,this is a gem of a info you shared, was struggling to know about servos and props motor bat specs. Great info hats off

Can you pl put more light on higher esc and battery 40,60 amp, can we put them on light weight planes, for longer time.?
Or large power bat( will cost more) and lower esc? 30 amp? Will it work?

Roopeshk ,sanjayrai - do you think following set up should be good enough to start with
(Availability is the critical thing )
(Tx rx not available )

From rc Bharat
   
ZOP Power 2200Mah Lipo--       Rs 1,189   
Specification
Battery Configuration: 11.1V 2200mAh 3cell
Battery Capacity: 2200mAh
Max Continuous Discharge (C-rate/current): 20C
Max Burst (3Sec) (C-rate/current): 45C
Approx Dimensions H x W x L (mm): 22.0 x 35 x 104
Approx Weight (g): 166.5
Max Charging rate: 2C

   
Mystery Pentium 30A Brushless ESC--       Rs 957   
Weight: 28g /0.99 oz
Size: 45X24X9mm
Features:
Constant current 30A Max 40A <10s
Li-Poly 2-3 cells;
Ni-MH 4-10 cells Auto Detect Break On/Off; Progarmmable
BEC: 2A
Auto Low battery Slow down at 3.0V/cell Lipo, cut-off at 2.9V/cell Lipo


Mystery A2212-6 2200KV Brushless Outrunner Motor--       Rs 897   
RPM/V      2200KV
No. Of cells        5-7Ni-MH/2-3Li-Po
Max. efficiency current      14 - 22 A (>72%)
NoLoad current / 10 V        1.4 A
Current capacity        28 A/ 60 s
Max. efficiency          0.75
Shaft diameter (mm) 3 mm
Weight with cables    47 g
Internal Resistance     45 mΩ
Dimensions(mm)       27.5x30
Recomended model weight :300-1000g
Recomended prop without gearbox   2xLi 7"x5",3xLi 5"x5",3xLi - heli
Remarks:   Ideal to work with our 20A ESC and 30A ESC For A2212/6 and A2212/10


Mystery 9grm Analog Metal Gear Servo--       Rs 491   

Size mm 22.8*12.2*28.5
Weight g 13.4g
Stall torque 1.8kg/cm(4.8v) 2.2kg/cm(6.0v)
Operating speed 0.10sec/60degree(4.8v) 0.08sec/60degree(6.0v)
Operating voltage 4.8V
Dead band width 5μs

ES9051 (4.3G) DIGITAL SERVO.      350/-        Kinetic hobby


Direct Drive Prop 8x6--       Rs 48   or

Electric Prop 9x6--       Rs 80   or

9x5 1CW & 1CCW--       Rs 147   or

Slow Fly Propeller 9x4.7 Pair--       Rs 185 ( suggest best)

Control Horns 16x20mm (6pcs)--      @ Rs 10   Rs 58

From rcdhamaka
Charger
V3+ AC240v 2/3s Lipo/Life Charger.        649/-

Still not getting wires and carbon rods.

is control line the best way to get into aeromodelling?

first get any simulator and practice a lot

second if you like to build your own trainer aircraft build aircraft in the weight range of 300 grms

third if you do not like to build then batter you buy sky surfer airplane

finally go with the trainer to get basic of the rc flying or fly in the supervision of senior member

@rj varun
For those who can spend about Rs 25,000 the way is to get an ARF and simulator.
For others The best way to learn aeromodelling (as opposed to just flying) is to build a balsa chuck glider
Then build a towline glider like say Mercury Gnome (plan in www.outerzone.co.uk)
This will teach you the basics of how to build/ trim a model.

Then, when you move into RC, you will need
1. TxRx costing 5-10,000
2. Motor, props, ESC, servos, batteries, intelligent charger, total 5-10,000
3. A model known to be a successful trainer, say 2-5,000

I'm afraid control line is now not a very suitable intro to aeromodelling. Too much risk of crash damage.
Control line now must be a special interest.
Now that I've managed to get hold of a non RC OS Pet 0.099, once I find my handle and lines, I will build a CL stunter, and post progress on the forum. My NIB Marvin kit is still in Lucknow.

The real charm of CL is that no RC pilot can do consecutive lazy eights below 30 ft!
(Except a few hot shot 3D pilots)

In CL I could do lazy 8s, horizontal / vertical / overhead 8s, inside/outside consecutive loops, reverse wingover and inverted flight.

Never got the courage to even try squares, triangles, hourglass or cloverleaf!

Attached pic of me flying inverted at Safdarjung about 40 years ago! Not sure if you can see the model.

CL Aerobatics

The only guy I've seen doing squares and triangles is one Mr Ravi Kumar. (Around 1980)

The only guy I've heard of doing Cloverleaves is his late father Mr Suresh Kumar
(founder owner of India's Hobby Centre / Aurora Models)

Not heard of anyone doing a cloverleaf in India in the last 40-50 years

Come on Ravi/Rishi, talk to us.
There must be thousands of Indians who owe their aeromodelling to your dad.

Don't you remember John (and me, Krishnan in those days, with my blue monokote OS20 powered Peacemaker, or my black Gnobler, or my releasable towhook / split rudder airbrake RC Glider around 1975-85)?
I was even on the cover of the Jan-Mar 1971 issue of Indian Modeller. What about SMAE India? Still alive or gone?

Request members in Kolkata to bring this post to the notice of Ravi/Rishi Kumar at IHC if possible.

Does anyone remember this?

iwincar, the products you have described are fairly general. However, to talk of a 2200 mAh LiPo and 4.3 gram servos in the same breath? Big LiPos are for heavier models, small servos for much lighter.

It seems you are looking at your electronics and hardware from a general use sense, which is good. But I suggest you zero in on a model first, and base your initial purchases around that.

Without LiPos HK is also a good option for purchasing. With LiPos their shipping time can be atrocious, unless you opt for DHL/Fedex.

@KK.Iyer Sir:You just bought the golden age of aeromodelling in front of us.
people are getting busy(Lazy??) nowadays and find time as a excuse for model building.
Model building is dying and now whats left is just RC flying.
Thanks to the effort of all those industries who introduced cheap models to kill the spirit of model building.
Lets take our forum as example, people who build plane are very less numbered. let alone balsa builders.
I personally know a aeronautic student in this forum who bought a skysurfer than building one and had almost 3 people who are my friends who started this hobby and quit it within a short span.

Ashok.P

Ashok, there are 2 sides to this coin

Many people into the Hobby would not be there if those reasonably priced RTFs and ARFs did not exist.

Building requires skill, and patience. (It also helps if you enjoy it.)

There are too many modellers who get turned off by building; many actually start and give up halfway.

The Aeromodelling fraternity has grown tremendously since the advent of these ARFs and RTFs.

Also, chances of success are higher with these. It is not easy to build a model with all angles square, no warps etc. Factories uses Jigs, Fixtures and automation to get near defect-free products.

Many people plunge into building, without knowing much about model airplanes, and meet early failure. A high percentage quit the Hobby then.

Some enthusiasts even start in the Hobby designing their own models. Again, a high percentage of drop-outs in this group

Agreed Sir,

But i dont know what is the contribution from our side while buying a RTF model.
a gasser or a 3D plane is okay. nitros too are fine. but small foamies/corro models?
BTW, still reading your other post regarding prop selection....
http://www.rcindia.org/electric-power/selection-of-motor-esc-prop-and-lipo-for-foam-planes/50/
Simply amazed. and thanks a lot for this contribution sir.

Ashok.P

[Post removed. Posting from personal ID]

+1 Sanjay Sir

While its easy for us Aeromodellers to ask a beginner to build a plane instead of buying an ARF/RTF, one must not forget that Aeromodelling is not just science but an art too, just like music, painting, etc. And mastering an art requires lot of effort, perseverance, passion and most importantly, the guidance of a Guru. While there are plenty of tutorials/videos, it is unreal to expect from a beginner to master the art with the help of these tutorials alone. It is like asking someone to play flute watching videos. While art may come naturally to a select few, the same is not the case with all.

I'm an Aeromodeller and since I'm good at arts, I used to feel that anybody can build a plane. However, I was dumbstruck when students started coming to me with their models for my opinion. There was absolutely no way that their models could fly. Forget wings, most even didn't have the skills to apply glue properly. Sorry for being harsh but this the reality. This is the reason why majority quit after dabbling with Aeromodelling.

Absolutely Vishal 

In fact as a scratch builder, I say that about half my builds don't fly well for various reasons, including faulty build. I enjoy building so I continue.

But if for example I wanted to learn 3D flying, it would be best for me to start with a readymade. I actually built 2; they flew.....but not 3D 

Quote from: sanjayrai55 on August 27, 2014, 11:29:18 AM
I enjoy building so I continue.

That is the key Sanjay Sir! For most, building is stressful. It was for me for a very long time until I started enjoying it.

Quote from: sanjayrai55 on August 27, 2014, 11:29:18 AM
But if for example I wanted to learn 3D flying, it would be best for me to start with a readymade. I actually built 2; they flew.....but not 3D  

Same here. I still haven't attempted building a 3D model  

Quote from: v2 eagle on August 25, 2014, 11:37:05 PM
Thanks to the effort of all those industries who introduced cheap models to kill the spirit of model building.

I think these industries are helping to spread aeromodelling .As a result this hobby is not limited to few rich one's . Now anybody interested can enter in this hobby with less bucks .

Lets not confuse Aermodelling with RC flying. RC flying is just that. Aeromodelling is an art.

i am going to buy kaiser mk2 and diesel 2.5 cc from aeromodelsupermarket and start building.

I just built one. If you haven't built a balsa model before, I suggest you start with something easier

Quote from: vishalrao on August 27, 2014, 12:16:38 PM
Lets not confuse Aermodelling with RC flying. RC flying is just that. Aeromodelling is an art.

Both are necessary to be in the hobby . Although hobby starts with model making but by flying self built model or purchased one , we can have a inspiration for next model to be built which will be better than previous one with better design and adjustments .

Quote from: sanjayrai55 on August 27, 2014, 07:01:34 PM
I just built one. If you haven't built a balsa model before, I suggest you start with something easier

Guillows models?
i just added this model to my cart. cheaper too to start with. wont bite my pocket if i fail in this attempt.
http://www.rcbazaar.com/products/963-lancer-24-span.aspx
reading a lot about doping and so on. can anyone please tell me which tissue to use for covering. and what its called in local market.

Ashok.P

Quote from: vishalrao on August 27, 2014, 12:16:38 PM
Lets not confuse Aermodelling with RC flying. RC flying is just that. Aeromodelling is an art.

+1

Ashok; a Guiillows is not a bad way to build your initial balsa models. Tissue of very high quality is provided in the kit. For dope, use diluted NC lacquer.

I built 2, Piper Super Cub and Spitfire

One problem I faced was sagging of tissue after putting paint (Fevicryl.) Amazingly though, after a week or so, the tissue tautened, and remained so!

Build log of the Piper Super Cub is: http://www.rcindia.org/kites-trains-free-flight-and-all-others/guillows-piper-super-cub-95-20'/





The Spitfire: http://www.rcindia.org/kites-trains-free-flight-and-all-others/guillows-supermarine-spitfire/

I suggest to start with the simpler Guillows models - the advanced ones can be seriously complicated and involved