How to attach servo and controls with fuse and wings,ailerons need some info

Servo installation is explained in Experimental Airlines Video Tutorial


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MhotIq8cJZA

very nice and detailed video sir 

This video is for a foam model

For a corro see Spadtothebone.net

I personally put one side wing servo mount screw on the spar, and the for the other, I stick a small piece of wood on the inside on the corro. Then make a 1~1.5 mm pilot drill hole, and screw in. Works perfectly.

For Rudder and Elevator servos, use zip-ties, or use the same method ie small pieces of wood on the inside

I usually stick a small piece of Sim card plastic , and then zip tied servos, in this way zip ties doesn't tears the coro.
second method for elevator and rudder, fix the plastic piece and the cut the rectangle servo shape , so that the servo can be inserted from above, and then fix with small screws.

I use a hot-glue gun with the translucent glue stick (the yellow one isn't good enough). I used to use zip ties, but this method is much easier and gives a sturdier hold.
Just wrap the servo with some transparent tape, mark the position, apply some hot glue and press the servo on it. I also apply some hot glue along the edges for added strength. The transparent tape helps while removing the servo.

Some pics to guide you

Second pic is for a conventional set-up with push rods inside the fuse

Third pic is inside the wing

Servos can also be fitted at the rear externally. Much simpler, no risk of push rod flexing

This is hugely helpfull sanjayrai thx

Anytime 

And no stripping of corro for changing the servo

Some doubts I have
Why do control rods flex, is it due to a powerful servo or a weak control rod/lengthy one?

And why are control rods bent in U,Z shape or any other shape for that matter?

Is using nylon clevis absolutely necessary? Because I would make pin horns out of ATM/credit cards and directly insert the control rod(usually any metal wire) into the holes on those pin horns.

I had this problem where the rod used to flex a lot due to its length, and when I re positioned them near the control surfaces CG was off which was compensated by adding weight. Finally my first plane never flew and I found multirotors!

Weak control rod, binding on control surfaces, incorrect travel rates make them bend. use a stronger rod or put it into a outer jacket.
just like how a throttle cable in a bike.
its not absolutely necessary to buy clevices, you have lot of other options, ATM cards, balsa pieces, or you can use the coro itself as a horn. a quick search in the net will give you lot of options. i personally like coro and use them as clevices.

Ashok.p

Sidewinder and Ashok: do not confuse a clevis with a horn. You can sure make a horn out of an ATM Card. A Clevis is an ingenious mechanism which not only gives a flexible connection at right angles, but is adjustable. A Linkage Stopper performs the same function too; but if you study the movement carefully you will find that with a clevis the locus of the pin is such that there is never any wasted transmitted force - all the force is used on the horn.

I use Z Bends, Snap lock clevises, Linkage Stoppers and normal Clevises depending on what I have available, the type of model and the location of the joint, and my mood

I didn't confuse between clevis and pin horn, just eliminated the clevis from the picture. I would make the hole on the my diy pin horn bigger so that there is a play when control rod is inserted and it somewhat mimics movement of an actual clevis-horn combination. But its neither adjustable, nor do I know how does it work at angles.

As far as I could understand, bends are made so that length of control rod can be adjustable. Im talking about bends other than Z bends on the end of the control rods.

SideWinder, play is bad for control rod-horn joints...the bigger the horn socket, the more the play...Also keeping perfect 90 degrees is recommended so one gets uniform travel in both directions (push or pull)

bends are made so the control rod does not slip or come off from the control horn...the U is simply a Z in the other direction, both are susceptible to slips, and even more when play is large. A snake bend comes in handy to reduce chances of slippage... A snake bend is a Z bend with the shorter arm twisted 90 degrees...To finely adjust the length, nothing beats clevises and linkage stoppers