That is what I want to achieve. Instead of reducing the size of the crank, will keep the U camp at a higher level and get the  bigger oar length.

Re-positioned the U camp at a higher point and extended the oars for a long arc. Oars are quite effective now and able to steer it nicely. Could not sail the boat with the figure, need little effort to fix it.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=p9c8GBOl7xo&feature=c4-overview&list=UUBufh08NklV3HmY48BOve1g

Very good! Is the steering OK? Seems to not be too responsive

Sanjay bhai, you are right, I did not notice it while testing. In just 4-5 cycles it is turning 360.
I will try to adjust it.  

check this link:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_embedded&v=5iqyOh6UNtU#at=123

that is one of the best rc rowing boat, thanks for the link.
This is the internal mechanism of a similar build.

Very nice. Also very complex! How to simplify; reduce dependence on servos, reduce number of moving parts?

Sanjay Bhai,
Actually the attempt is made to keep the hull clean and fix all the mechanism inside the figure as much as possible.

But the Germans keep things in a very simple and to the point manner. The rowing boat mechanism which I followed is Graupner Tina boat; I have tried my best to alter the some of the parts with various other methods, but could not. The only difference in my build is while turning, the arm is pushed away from the figure, where as in the original build it pulls inward.

If you remember the other build "red indian canoe" made by another German, took almost a week to understand the mechanism, previously I was thinking the paddling is just a circular motion mechanism but it is not like that. For example the rower sitting a right side of the canoe – left hand is for lifting and right hand for pulling the paddle and there is a delay in pulling action.  That means the pulling action starts when the paddle is about to touch the water. And surprising both the connecting rods are on the same crank, at different angle, and placed so well that don't come in contact while rotating.

Very true sir. But I feel using a servo on continuous duty could lead to a failure. There must be an alternative

Slightly modified the plan of the row boat, for more stability and traditional rowing boat look. Order a lighter geared motor from HK (100 gms, the previous one is 180 gms).
http://hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__26267__133RPM_Brushed_Motor_w_75_1_Gearbox.html
Fiberglassed the plug. Some update pictures.  

used simul wood and finished the plug with PoP, Fiberglassed it after two coats of PVA (release agent).

Classic build ongoing sir 

PVA = Fevicol?

Thanks Sanjay Bhai. Planning for a wooden texture effect; learned the trick of wooden texture painting from a Steel Almirah Painter.

PVA is not Febicol, it is mainly used as releasing agent while making moulder from PoP, Cement Putty etc., but chemical properties of PVA is much like Febicol. 

finally completed this boat; some more photographs & video
http://www.flickr.com/photos/101712269@N04/sets/72157635561512266/

Only one Word Maharana
B R I L L I A N T !!!!!!!!!

Thanks Sreekant.

some of the intermediate build photographs:

...

A very complex and beautiful system of work there.. @ Sb_Maharana sir.. Amazing work. Could you please post some more details / images of the rowing mechanism if possible.
Regards
Punty

I have already posted the the working of rowing mechanism here:
http://www.rcindia.org/boats/avatar-ii/msg144904/#msg144904

due to lack of space I have changed the servo position, place it on the front side.

will try to post some more images......

Thanks for the link

Painstaking work but what a FANTASTIC result! Awesome finishing and detailing - each and every nail on the boat has been replicated.

Thanks Mr.VC
I have ordered a brushed ESC (with reverse function) once I have it will upload a better video.

Beautiful job sir. Extremely professional.

Thanks Sanjay Bhai.

Brilliant build, Maharana sir!
And I thought fast V hulls and hydroplanes packed all the fun.

Is the Avataar character hand made too?