hi justwana know how far u got wth ur surfboatas i also wana build 1would apreciate som info thanks

Roopesh...where are you. You are the MAN for this project!

Sanjay

Good morning respected Modelers..Sanjay Sir, i miised this thread..and was looking in to posts..and wonder that , how serious are to make a simple surf bait boat..!! Ilango,as you Mentioned as you in Sri Lanka, i hope you may find many auto rikshaws, that we found in India, and nowadays the company Piaggio, is delivering these machines all over the world. to make a bait boat one of the sucessful wiper motor that i used from last 8 years is from an "APE" autorikshaw, works well and drops only less than about 3 to 4 amps at full load..here is the photos of motor of my new big TUG..

after removing all brush assy, cut out the flange with hack saw, or with angle cutter..and drill a hole on the shaft, by apropriate twist drill bit, while holding the motor on a bench vise..use a spirit level with driller, to get a straight drill..bore..

you can also use wiper motor from Bajaj rear enginned auto, or can take a motor from wind shield winder of a car..all works well, as all they are multipoled, and heavily brushed..such motors are designed to work for years without any malfunctions..anf it is very easy to rewind up to our specifications, as the armature is very big compared to tiny motors or an ECM.i was using these motors on my big crafts, in to 3, 4 and 5 feet crafts, with one, or two, as tugs and barge models..it can haul a person easy, through river with a three inch hand made prop.

we can drill a hole, through the motors shaft, as it goes over 8 mm..and can fix the drive shaft, easily with a pin by cross drilling..here showing my set up for the havy tug..using a bicycle spoke..but if you are usiing in a salt water source, can purchase Stain less Steel rods from hardware shops, used to make the handles of a Samover, ( tea kettle), in various thickness..a 3 feet long 4 mm shaft costs here as 60 Rupees.and can make BSF thread from a thread tap, or from alathe..simply..can buy aproprate nuts to fix the propeller..

the prop: we do not need to wander for a prop..we can make a prop from brass sheet, SS sheet, or simply from an aluminum sheet..a two, flat blade with less pitch for high speeds, and three narrow, or round blades with steeper pitch for lower RPM, but greater torque..it will take about 10 minutes to make a pro for ourselves..and works well..and can adjust the pitch of the prop up to our needs..

it is not nessesary to use a ECM, on high torque boats, as most of the ECM s are designed for Aero modeling..will blows off if current exceeds a little higher limits..and one of the great feature of wiper motors are designed to take the load of the wiper arm, for hours in a vehicle..and it never heats up even at full load..so it is not nessesary to cool it down externally..and it is also designed with self lubricating bushes, as bearings provides years of trouble free service..and even then, if you want to cool the motor, go for an easy option with copper tubes..that you can see here..

we can purchase copper tubes in to 4, 6, 8 mm from the dealers who deals the materials for A/C and refrigeration.its easy to bend, never rusts, weighs less..and reliable..we can wrap around the tubing over any motor, and plese never frorget to apply the heat sink compound all over the tubes on motors as you see in photograph..this heat sink compound can buy from any Electronic shops, costs Rs 10/ for a tube.can fix a simple water scoop, just in front of the propeller, to pump in water..so, when the RPM of the prop increases the water is also pumped up in , in greater quantity..with the wiper motor set up, you do not need to use any reduction, gears because those motors are designed as multi polar, series.the torque even at 6 volts is great..

Electronics: when we decide to make a Subamarine, or an exposed craft, to water, we must need a WTC, means a water Tight Chamber..to keep all electronics intact..while thinking , we google it in internet, and will see many complicated layouts made by many sophisticated companies, and shocks..it is not possible to make our own..so we asks for the price..and even more shocking..why..? and what for..?

Fantastic. Roopesh - you are THE MAN! 

we do not need any complicated WTC s from abroad..are we Indians are fools..? never..only need some good interest and dedication..i started making submarine from 1998, and still making one at present in to 1.6 meters..from my first to this never used any extra ordinary stuffs, except a gas tube from a soda maker..for recovery..works excellently..and when we thinks about a WTC we scratches our head..and once i was engaged in a sub programme, in my State, and was discussing with a craft man, who is a tin sheet metal worker, and after hearing the basic idea, he shouts at me.." ella changaayii,njee enganaa eintaathu bellam kaaraandu nokkua..? inikku piranthaa..? " (" hey friend, how did you keep water out of this machine..? possible..? are you mad..?) is that tough to make a WTC..? never..from that moment, i turned to make its hull from foam board..and worked even more nicely..and reinforced with idustrial cyano glue..stiffer than steel..but lighter than steel..

How do you manage speed control with the Wiper Motor?

Good morning Sanjay sir..its very easy to make a Bait bot for sea..

the WTC: i will give you a simple idea to make a WTC, is proven, in my crafts for years..buy acylic sheets, in to 5 mm, for big crafts, and 4 mm for tiny crafts, in to a 2 feet X 2feet size..buy a piece of Stainless steel dowel, in to 8mm, in to 4 inch length, and with Stain less steel rod, in to 4mm, and 12 inches long, go to a lathe, and drill a hole through the dowel,in to 4mm..slice the dowel in to three equal size..collect an SS tube in to 8mm, andload one of the drilled piece in to tube..then collect some iol seals, that found in starter motors, or aquarium pumps, and load the seal in between the dowel pieces..it will acts as the water seal..two is far enough, but three will gives even more safety..you can also use the high quality washers from NCVs, (Needle Control Valves) used in high pressure LPG gas tables, to control the flow of gas to the burners..it will be less expensive and lasts longer..after assembly, fix it all with two part fast epoxy putty..

Sir..explaining..
now the prop shaft assy is ready..drive in the SS rod in to the bearing assy..and make sure a free running..while the washers or seals must grab the shaft..if found erratic smooth the rod from lathe..can slo use high density brass rods..but never MS or metal..will rust out..
now measure the size of the motor..and spread all electronics on a table that you are going to use including the batteries..place it in a trial and error method, and find a good arrangemet..and measure the total size of the equipments, including the motor, while, motor facing in to one side, towrds propeller..and make a clear measurement, while leaving 4mm gap, all around at least, for a box. please keep the box as rectangular..make the box with acrylic sheet that we aquired earlier..glue all sides with apropriate industrial glue, leaving one side open..(TOP)..and drill a hole, to take the drive shaft out, and fix the motor inside with rubberblocks, that can be easily buy from auto mobile shops..in various sizes..and shapes..fix the motor with industrial rubber based glue, as it can gives us a flexible movement, while grabbing the motor with violent force..

fix all brackets with SS nuts and bolts..please avoid to use long bolts than needed as it will become a disturbance in layout later..fix the pro shaft holder in drilled hole about the motor, and seal it with industrial epoxy glue..reinforce it with gazzets made of SS or Brass sheets..make one or two, partitions within the box, while looking for the margins for all needed things..thus we can place motor in a chamber, electronics in a chamber, and yes battery in an other chamber, but all within one box..make a lid from same sheet, and add a lipping all over the side, that correctly fits inside the box. margin of this lipping is 1 inch enough..and make sure its tight..remove the top..fill gigh density silicon in to all corners and joints of the box, to prevent any leakage..reinstall all electronics and motor..can wrap the receiver with plastic bag, to avoid any mal functions..seal all gaps of servos with silicon as a precaution..before fixing lid, make a hole in  battery side, and fix a 4 mm HD silicon tube, in to 15 cms length at least, can keep open while re charging the batteries..this prevents any gas set up inside the WTC..can close it with apropriate plastic caps later in action..

make a second hole, to take all nessesary wire to out, for switching, and lighting..use only HD copper wires..now make sure eveything is working..while all systems in on, check out the throttle and reverse control for nice working..and yes sero actions..make sure all servo drive are water tight with seals..apply a little silicon all over the lid and seal it..wait for 20 minutes..or you can add screws, while attatching the bicycle valve tube all around the cap lipping for future maintenace..now WTC is ready..

i cant add the photographs of completed WTC s here as i was making all three submarines for Naval Academy, and it is not permitted to photograph and publish..but i am making one submarine for my crative modeling and will add all photographs and videos here..

the ESC and BEC...Friends..its very easy to make an ESC along with BEC..we always looks in to commercially available items, but even those stuffs are designed and finished with some electronics components that available in our local market..!! if you examine one costly ESC from any company, you will find that the all components are easily avalable in free form..for an example, if you examin the BEC ( Battery eliminator Circuit), on a expensive ESC, you will find it is based on 7805 low drop voltage regulators..!!.is 12 Rs each..so, you can make a BEC for you easily..and can also make an ESC, within 20 minutes, with a 555 IC, or with any pulse expander, with a simple H bridge circuits using MOSFETS, in to P and N channel, in FFD and REV..such ESCs can haul up 60 amps with only three of device..make sure the wires is capable to carry enough current..
see here that a commercialy available expensive ESC is using the same 7805 low drop regulator..

and its maximun capacity is less than 2 amps..as each device is designed to haul within 1 amps load..so in parellel it can pull less than 2..and this unit is expensive than 1200 Rs..
here my hand made BEC, is capable of hauling 8 amps with ease..cost..within 100 Rs..working..?  excellent..proven..for years..with same device.. but boosted up with a power device to increase the current handling...

you can make ESC s even more easier way..each and every speed controlers are based on pulse expanders..you can make a simple pulse expander with a simple circuit using a 555 ic, and with a MOSFET..this arrangement is feasible, for rough applications..and as it do not directly connected to any radio system, no fear of mal function is needed..

this ESC can haul up to 30 amps in ease..but you can see the wires are too thin, but in HD, though it is not feasible to load with high amps..still it is good with loads up to 20 amps, as most of the motor loads will be withis 10 amps max, over that the motor will blows off.. a second one is even more powerful, and the next one is capable of BEC, with reverse..for brushed motors..it can haul a motor up to CRST, 1200..with ease..
you can see the wires to receiver as BEC..is 5 volts..4 amps..

Battery: we do not use a heavy battery, untill we are looking for a very long session with our crafts..usually a sealed zero maint: SLA (Sealed Lead Acid Battery) is enough..we can purchase it all from 1.2 amps to 9 amps..in 6 and 12 volts..for a bait boat two 12 Volts 1.2 Amps SLA battery is enough for a two hours operation..we do not need any LiPoly batteries, and never consider Li Poly battries are as ultimate..we are liable to use LiPoly batteries in aermodeling because of its light weight..

Very interesting. No easier/simpler way for speed control?

HULL: i was making bait boats from my child hood..and it became even more serious as i learned more electronics, and reached even more intense , that i could get transistors, from markets, instead of valves, and the availability of rechargeable batteries..as i could make Rx,Tx as my own.. but i stopped using bait boats later, because of two things..i always get, fishes like "EAATTA" ,"KAYCHAL", and "MUSHU"..from sea, as all thse fishes are ugly in nature, and with a raw tasting flesh..baee..bad..and alwas meet with "MALAN", "IRUMEEN" from river..also with nasty taste..so, after catching i always sold it to natives..another great head ache was stranding of the line on rocks..at sea its not a serious issue..but at river..it will..

a good shape of hull for a bait bot, especially for sea, from my experience, is a flat bodied, with a deepest v, with a keel extract to 1to 1.5 feed depth..with weight..a good stable with standing plat form was my last bait boat, was in to 3 feet long, 1.3 feed wide, with a very deep sharp "V", in to 8 inches, and the extractor in to 1.5 feet down, with weights attached..the weights were attained from melting old led accumulators, used in cars..it did well..and because of the leverage of the extraxtor, the craft always satand upright..and it was powered by a wiper motor worked perfectly..

sure Sanjay sir..we can use many micro switches to control the speed by using resitors..but loss will happen in the form of heat..above shown ESC and BEC are very easy to make, within an hour..all with handy components..and works well..we do not need any complicated elecronic devices here..we can also use a heating element from a soldering iron..still will loss..or you can make a very simple ESC from an old scraped servo..works well..

above hull is intended for my new floating light house, with a tall tower , is basically a hull of a bait boat..you can see a flange protuding from the hull at bottom, is actually attatchment of a long extractor arm, to fix the weight..this will keep her upright and sturdy, all the while..she will be also equpped with a short wave radio, altimeter, and a radio beacon, guided from shore, to stand in one place..a weight will attatch to the extractor arm, from an old led block..

design of the hull can be in to X bow, so the wave will split in front of the hull instead of disturbing it..and if you make both ends of hull in to X bow, it will be even more stabler..like a scow..top side of the hull can be slanted in to 45 degree, and water will deflected off..super structure can made from acrylik sheets, need a tiny one, and can screw it wth same bicycle valve tube as sealing..

the very best material to make a bait boat is without doubt..the Thermocol..(Expanded polysterene)..takes all thuds..torques..splashes..and in my native fishermen sare making boats from thermocol blocks wrapped in a net..is known as "PONGU"..they even travels further inside the sea..and my own experience shows the best material is..sure thermocol..very light..when seasoned..stiffer than balsa..or wood..very versatile..never sink..and shape it with NC putty..and if you are looking for even more stiffness..use PU putty...

Friends..Colleagues..Modellers..Respected Seniors..all above postings are from my real experience..and never consider as a boasting..or as an advice..consider it all as a request, yes, all you must make crafts your own..
Ilango..your posting inspired me a lots to make a new bait boat..will start one by today..and after finishing i am ready to give it to you..you are welcome to my place..my home is situated 200 meters from the sea..and 300 meters from river...any how thanks for the inspiration..once again..because to me the bait boat was a forgotten thing...
have a nice crafts to you all...