I had bought this 1/10 scale kit (without electronics) from banggood a year back. In fact it was my first purchase from bg and start of hobby.
It was assembled and ran 50+ times over last year and was time to clean and rebuild it.
Since I could not make a detailed build log when I built it first time, I decided make one when I rebuilt it. It was done over a period of two weeks but putting as one long post.
Images are linked from google drive. If it make the page load slow, please let me know I will remove them and put link to images folder.
All photos at https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1TirCv45ydoCNUJc4Iszkkn_4jxLyr5MK?usp=sharing

About the kit, it is a monster truck/truggy style car and the cheapest available 1/10 scale. It costed around 5K INR. The kit does not include any electronics such as motor, ESC, Rx etc.
From last 1 year use, I could say its damn good for the price. I have not broken anything other than a bent dog bone. Again I don't run insanely fast and NO big jumps.
About parts availability, banggood does have major parts of the model.
There are few metal upgrade parts as well available for the car.

I run this car with Hobbywing EZRUN Victory 4000kv 8.5T brushless motor and Hobbywing EZRUN 60A SL ESC. Thanks to rchyper.com
Servo is JX PDI-6113MG Digital Coreless Standard. Radio is Flysky FS-GT3C with FS-GR3E Rx. This is not the best radio but a budget radio. Over a year of use, the rotary wheel does not work well. But still it is my radio for this as well other cars.

Car does have two differential made of plastic case and metal gears. I used normal automotive grease. It is bit tricky when you tighten the screws. over tightening can cause gears grind each other.

It also does have two rear and front gear boxes to hold the differentials. Made of plastic.

Spur gear comes with a slipper clutch system, which does allow the spur to slip when both wheels are locked out. I tightened the nut fully and took 1/2 a turn backwards. Tested the slip by holding both rear wheels while accelerating.

Rear assembly. It does have sway bar, which is useful when cornering. Its tension can be adjusted.

Rear wheel assembly. I had upgraded wheel hub carrier from plastic to metal. One advanatage of metal is, you can tighten the screws fully and use lock tite. Bearing are of good quality. I used little WD40 wherever bearing are placed.

Front Assembly. There is metal braze in the front (and rear) to protect the chassis from impacts.

Front wheel assembly.

Chassis plate is made of plastic with metal pillars. Motor mount is also made of metal and connected directly to chassis. Used lock tite on pillar and motor mount screws.

Steering wheel assembly does include a servo saver. Left a gap of 3.5mm between the nut and scew so that servo saver has enough flexibility in case of impact. The original tie rods were non adjustable plastic, I had replaced them with metal adjustable.

Full Assembly

Shock caps are made of metal and towers plastic. Silicon oil is used to fill them. There is hole on the metal cap to push out excess oil.
The silicon oil I used is general purpose. Ride height can be adjusted using the shock spring adjuster.

Fixing shocks. There are three position holes on the shock tower and arms to adjust the ground clearance.

Electronics. I use a gensace 5300mah 65C 2s lipo hard pack. It is lipo for all of my RC Cars. And went through 100+ Cycles. Still doing good. In the past had tried cheap towerpro servos and 2 had failed withing two weeks. The current JX PDI from banggood is running fine over a year. The hobbywing brushless motor and sensor less ESC is also good. In order to get motor temperature under control, gear mesh has to be done correctly.
AFAIK, this ESC can take only 2s (the ESC fan will run only on 2s).
Also using after market metal servo arm.

Final. Added some practical head lights, which can be controlled using Tx 3rd channel (by using led controller)

I made the whole rebuild in to a video,



Testing After rebuild,