Hey, Rocky,


More pics!!!!  MORE PICS!!!!!   

For the ones who do not understand drift jargon(me),what is CS?(Tried googling but got bored)

Countersteer.

As the name implies, it's when the front wheels are turned into the slide, or drift. In RC cars, it requires "overdrive" of the rear wheels, meaning the rear wheels are moving faster than the fronts, at a ratio of 1.5 or 2.0 revolutions, or the rear wheels are rotating 1/2 to 1 full revolution faster.

It also makes the car very difficult to travel a straight line. The drifter is very "squirrely", and wants to turn, regardless of how the driver wants it to go straight.

It's why I don't recommend CS to beginners or even novices, as the mechanics of drift must be learned first, before the extra burden of CS should be introduced. CS also guarantees that chassis cannot be used for anything other than drift, until the ratio can be brought back to 1:1.

I know.. That's why I'll buy a CS compatible car, and switch to CS whenever I want.. (After learning to drift properly first) 
CS looks just tooo good on videos! That's why I can't just pass on it! 

Oh yah, I figured you knew.

The explanation is for those who don't.

Ahh...

Counter Steer rings some bells.Interesting stuff there.

uuhhh...i am learning more and more stuff from these topics about drift...!!!

Quote from: Rocky_Balboa on December 29, 2010, 06:56:08 PM
I had prepared the following list of mods:
1) 3mm and 6mm offset Wheels (26mm width and 52mm dia) and Drift Tires

Very glad to see technical discussions guys, keep going.

I finally mounted the drift tires on the rims and here are the details:
1) Tires: Raikou DXPE drift tires at $17.99 for 12 tires (thought of nothing else, when 'gokemidoro' vouched by them)
2) Rims: HPI Meister S1's at $17.18 for 4 from TowerHobbies (stock rims werent drift-spec)

The hardest part was mounting the tires on the rims. I cant remember how many links i read on tire mounting.., believe me its easier said than done (incorrectly mounted tires can and will upset drifting). The tires came with appropriate mounting instructions but not without a disclaimer, that it might be very difficult.

When in trouble, came my guru for rescue; gokemidoro was very kind to photograph and send me how-to pics which should be part of RC encyclopedia (no joking, its the simplest ive ever seen & done). With his permission, I am attaching the mounting instructions in this post. You can also find these instructions here http://s974.photobucket.com/albums/ae229/KarlMatsunaga/raikou tire mounting/.

Its as simple as given - My first tire took 4 attempts, 2nd and 4th just one, while the 3rd tire needed two attempts. Just needs patience to retry if it isnt a proper fit.
You could find the mounted pics at http://s1130.photobucket.com/albums/m535/kandanmv/S2_WIP

Caution: Since the tire needs to be in boiling water for 3 mins, chances of getting boils on fingers high.
Tip: I used insulation tape and cut out an expired credit-card vertically for lexan. After mounting, freeze them about 10 mins, to let the tire bind well.

Let me know Your comments/ questions if any. Better pics coming soon.

gokemidoro, please feel free to correct if i got any steps wrong.

No, nothing wrong there! 

For everyone, this info is a bit dated, but much of the information is still valuable for those either contemplating, or just getting into drift:

http://www.rc-drift-cars.com/rc-drift-car.htm

The general information can be applied to just about every RC chassis out there, with the exception of maybe Tamiya's IFS chassis.

Quote from: Rocky_Balboa on December 29, 2010, 06:56:08 PM
I had prepared the following list of mods:  

2) Chipping the rear-diff cover, to allow gravel escape
3) Locking the rear-diff, to make the rear slide smoother

Looks like the thread has taken a slumber
Allow me to update on the status of above mods - Complete

Since the instructions in the HPI manual are segregated based on parts; it was difficult for me to disassemble the S2 to access the rear diff. And came gokemidoro to the rescue (again); who put-up a detailed photo-set on how to remove the rear-diff starting, from the hub. And I had the rear diff out of the chassis, 30-45 mins later.

The disassemble instructions are available at: http://s974.photobucket.com/albums/ae229/KarlMatsunaga/Removing%20rear%20diff%20of%20Sprint%202/ These instructions should be put-up as sticky in RC forums.

After much discussion, I chose play-doh (also called clay and available in fancy stores) to lock the rear-diff. By following this tutorial http://thetoyz.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=26352, the job was done in less than 30 mins. I left the diff untouched over-night for the play-doh to harden and lock the diff completely.

While the rear diff was resting, I also managed to cut the rear-diff cover(aka bulkheads). This allows debris escape from getting caught near the diff and damaging the belt and/ or the diff itself. Since I didnt have a dremel tool, I took the bulkheads to a nearby electrical shop for pruning. I am attaching a picture of before and after pics of the diff cover.

I just reversed the pic-set by gokemidoro to put the rear-diff back in place.

Tips:
(1) Take extreme caution when dealing with the E-Clips, its very easy to loose them.
(2) Dont use super-glue or something similar to lock the diff, the lock is provided by the substance volume.
(3) You can use M-Seal or something similar to lock, but remember that the diff is permanently locked in this case and any mistakes may cost You the diff.
(4) Remember to insert the screw-nuts, before putting the bulkheads back on the chassis (atleast on the right-side bulkhead, looking from the rear).

You could see the updated pics of my S2, at http://s1130.photobucket.com/albums/m535/kandanmv/S2_mods/

@gokemidoro,
Thanks buddy .

References:
1) Disassembly instructions at http://s974.photobucket.com/albums/ae229/KarlMatsunaga/Removing%20rear%20diff%20of%20Sprint%202/
2) Locking the diff at http://s1130.photobucket.com/albums/m535/kandanmv/Locking_HPI_Sprint2_rear_diff/

Comments, feedback and discussion mandated  

Lots of work.

Waiting for a video.25-30 pictures a second speak more than 9 of them

thanks for sharing this information in detail.

please keep up the good work as i am following you with modifications on my car.

one thing i want to ask......... can you please elaborate a little on the material ussed for locking the diff.

thanks again

puneet

Thanks puneet and iamahuman.

@iamahuman,
It looks like a lot of work, but its very easy. I dont have any videos of the disassembly or locking the diff, I believe it cant be any easier than these pics. However if someone has a doubt I can try posting a video.

@puneet,
The substance used is called 'clay' and is available in fancy stores. They look like m-seal and are non-toxic primarily for kids to create and learn various shapes and sizes. BTW what car model do You have? and what are You modifying it for? Pics would help

hi

thanks for details on the sealing material.i also have HPI sprint 2 sport. locking of differential is something new for me and i want to try and do it my self.attached is a pic of my car

cheers

puneet

Oh I am very glad to hear that, Puneet.

Please post more pics and if possible, vids also. So how long have You been drifting and how do You find it? Require more details on any mods You may have already done, settings etc.

Just follow the pictures from the links and You would find no difficulty. Keep us informed on the progress and/ or any questions.

Yah, guys, keep those pics coming!!

Vids, too, if you have any!!

Keep it up so all can learn!!

Currently have 3 of them:

HPI Sprint 2 FLUX 68 Mustang Body
HPI Sprint 2 Drift JX100 Body/ rims combo
HPI Sprint 2 FLUX With Countach LP5000 body.

Here are a few pics. We normally drift on the terrace of our office building. Just a few cones laid out and we have a blast.

Nice.Your office must be a fun place.

rocky@ i am quit new to drifting ( 6 months), and have just started as i almost lost my car due to flooding of my basement but now it is

almost back to normal hence progress is very slow but i am really enjoying it.

gokemidoro @ definatly will be posting pics when ever possible.

i am planning to put lipo set up for this car , please advise tips / suggestion on this matter.

cheers

puneet

Puneet,

Best thing I can tell you about LiPos is read and follow-to the letter-warnings and restrictions to LiPo use and recharging. You must have a LiPo specific charger! DO NOT charge a LiPo with a Nimh charger!!!!

That's how houses burn down.

I have witnessed fires and explosions of LiPo batteries, and in each case, they were the result of innattention, carelessness, and using the wrong charger.

Don't get me wrong.....They are great batteries! You just need to excercise a bit more care with them, than other battery types, that's all.  Also, get yourself the hardcase type LiPos. They are safer.

hi  gokemidoro

noted your concern

i do have a good charger for lipo with balancer.

the only reason i want to go for lipo batteries is beacuse other batteries need very frequent charging.

will take advise here before buying them

cheers

Well, seeing as charge frequency is tied to how long they take to discharge, I agree.

LiPos last a lot longer charge-wise, too. Nimhs will take only a couple hundred charge cycles, and their discharge cycles become shorter and shorter. 
LiPos on the other hand, last longer, and after the first 20-30 charge cycles, will actually take less time charging than when they were brand new! Because they don't heat up during charging (when done properly with a balancer), they also last 250-300 cycles or more, depending on their quality. Some new ones will go 500-600!!

This last is the best, because they give the necessary "boost" to brushed systems that have a voltage cutoff (Traxxas XL-5, for instance). Brushless systems won't be as efficient without them, either.

Don't go for the cheapest you can find. The adage "You get what you pay for" applies here. As a rule, the more expensive, the longer they will perform, and last.

Also, "C" ratings on LiPos aren't that important, but you should get ones with ratings higher than 20C. 30-35C is good, and most brushless ESC's will take more output, but you will have a hard time controlling it, and drift is about smooth, not brute power.

Wow!! Siddharth,
You own three Sprint's!! You must be a lot experienced handling hit. Why dont You post Your tips and setup details, for the less-mortals like me.

Puneet,
Glad to hear again. We all start as novices and thats the purpose of this thread - to share information on the chassis and anything/ everything related to RC on-road. LiPo's are great to have, what charger do you have btw?

On my S2, I have to finish the front one-way install before understanding how it drifts.

EDIT:

Quote from: Rocky_Balboa on December 29, 2010, 06:56:08 PM
4) Installing the front one-way (diff), to make the rear slide faster

I managed to finish the front one-way install on the S2, was a 15 min job. However I did have a minor issue with dogbones slipping out-of-the wheel hubs, on full steering lock. There was too much play for the dogbones at the diff side; so when the wheels turned, the dogbones were pushed further at the diff. This resulted in the dogbones slipping from the wheel hubs.

I googled around and understood this is an inherent problem with the stock dogbones and one-way combination. There were two fixes suggested by various RC forums:
1) Put more O-rings on the diff side of the dogbone.
2) Put some springs on the diff side of the dogbone.

   I felt the second one was better, since the dogbone will always be pushed against the wheel-hub by the spring and still have good play. I cut a spring from a ball-point pen and placed on either side of the diff before the dogbone and problem solved. I forgot that I had misplaced my rechargeable AA's and hence couldnt run the S2!! (Damn!!!). Will have the results of the run, tomorrow.

About the front one-way:
The one-way diff rotates forward only, on power; which means when the S2 is reversed the front wheels will not be engaged. So when someone hits the brakes, it will be like using the handbrake on a 1:1. The front-wheels will keep free-wheeling forward while the rear slides.

Attached is a picture of the front one-way.

hi rocky

thanks for your encouraging words.

i have a tahmazo charger  ,it will be great if you could post a video of your car in action.

cheers

I ran the S2 for a short time on the road, to realize the car was doing donuts instead of drifting. The right-front wheel was spinning freely in both directions, when its actually supposed to do that forward only. Looks like the front one-way is faulty. Also I lost reverse and brakes during a 15 min run inside my house, followed by some burnt smell from the ESC. I could see some dust (and mud) from the roadrun earlier, in the ESC casing (not inside, though). Looks like the ESC is toast.

I wrote to HPI regarding this and HPI corresponded they would replace them, for free. 

For now, I am limiting myself to runs inside my house. And I have to add, its extremely difficult to learn drifting in a small room and without reverse.

Caution: Do Not, under any circumstance, run the S2 anywhere near even the minutest of mud or dirt and never ever near a wet surface.