Ah, now that you mention one way diffs, I recall them being used in LOTS of drift cars!
The clicker looks useful.. Lets see how it turns out..

But ALL of Traxxas' models aren't meant for speed.. Granted, the Rustler is PURELY speed..
But, take a car like the E-Revo.. Brilliant suspension.. Atleast I like it..

That's right, they should have had some kind of disclaimer, about the 14.4v thing! Instead, they are encouraging it!

Wow, I haven't been able to get on for a while.....Don't know why. Anyway, onward!

Yah, the clicker was a good idea, and it's not known why it fell out of favor, but there are things that go that way for no apparent reason, so it must have been to "even" the field, because there isn't any other good reason to have discontinued it. It works on the same principle as the one-way in on-road cars, but in on-road, one-ways aren't considered cheating, so it's a mystery.

Yah, the Revo series is just as fast, if not faster, when set up correctly. My own nitro Revo was good for 55 MPH. My E-Revos were faster. I never had to take them to that speed bashing around, though I did take one on the highway, and it was able to overtake the car I was in, by at least 10MPH. The guy driving behind us was laughing!

I did the parallel connector (custom made, before the mini VXL came out-years before), and it worked well, but the power boost (I was using four 2S batteries-YES, four!) was like a drag racer. You didn't dare turn the wheel, or it would outdo a gymnast, with all the cartwheels, batteries flinging everywhere! That was also with a Castle system, the early Mamba maxes, which would take serious abuse, and I was never able to fry one.
Believe me, I've done just about every stupid thing you could do with an RC car, so what's happening now comes as no surprise. I went to on-road, because the refinement there is a welcome relief to spending all that money on broken parts, which is all off-road represents to me now.

Never read about the one way diffs.Gotta read more about them.So in short,the AE sc10 4x4 would be the king of the hill in SC racing then?

And Traxxas's cars do have tons of speed,I like the revo series too and I like my slash.With a few mods,it actually handles quite well.Now that I have learnt to slide it,its more fun.Traxxas does appeal to the basher though.On RCG,I see lots of guys asking about the rustler.As far as I believe,only 4 cars that Traxxas makes are good all-rounders.The E revo,the Revo,the slash 4x4 and the slash 2wd.Apart from these,I really don't like  the other cars they use.


Any vids from your crazy exploits gokemidoro?

So, from what I have read,they are useful on high bite surfaces and when you don't need too much braking.And it also allows more power to be applied during a corner where we brake or let off the throttle in a normal car.Am I right?

I wouldn't go so far as to say it's king of the hill, because driver skill plays a much bigger part. It DOES give the driver an edge though, because the clicker, acting as a one-way, gives basically three wheels of power, out of a corner. Why three? the rear diff drives only one wheel at any time. the other is just "neutral." With the clicker, BOTH front wheels are under power, so, hence three wheels. This is much more power than the average AWD chassis. It doesn't matter if it's on-road or off. The great thing about a one-way is that as you know, the front inside wheel is spinning less around a corner, the outside wheel has to spin faster, to keep up. the clicker allows this, by powering the outside wheel, and since the inside wheel is spinning less, will "freewheel" for a short time, but will still keep power to the ground, especially when getting back on throttle, out of the turn. This also reduces "push," where the front end doesn't seem to want to turn sharply enough. Since the inside wheel is still under power, it "drags" the front end around, and makes the chassis respond to sharper input. Adding Ackerman will enhance it further.
Now the clicker can be locked, by tightening the cinch nut, just like a slipper clutch, and also allows adjustment of the clicker, which on-road one-ways don't have, but they don't really need it, because the physics is different. With the clicker adjusted for one-way operation, as I said earlier, there will be no brakes and no reverse at the front wheels. Drag brake is very important here, as it can help slow the truck down, without the driver pushing the trigger forward, to set up for a turn, which means faster response time, faster cornering speed, and faster lap times. It also allows the driver to dive deeper into the turn, before letting off throttle, and let the drag brake "swing" the rear end around to where he wants it, then pull back on throttle, and power out. That's the "aggro" way of driving, and it's how I drive.   

I also agree with your list of Traxxas vehicles, because the rest of Traxxas' line is not meant to race. Sorry, but I don't have a videocam, but I DID go to an office supply store that carries them, and was blown away at how inexpensive they are! I can get one for less than $100!!! Trouble is, now I don't know how to post vids!!
I'll get one soon, but all I can vid is on-road, because I gave up off-road a couple of years ago.

Nice explanation.I'm sure others will come out with a one way diff soon enough.

I too drive pretty much the same way.I try to let off as late as possible and get on the power to slide the rear end and the slash straightens itself out and bang!!I use the throttle to swing the rear end around as soon as possible.

Open an account in youtube.If you have a Gmail account,you can use the username and password from that too.Once you are there,you have to choose which vid you want to upload.It should upload and just like how you post the link here,post that link and it will be embedded.

At approx. 1:45, you'll see where the right front body mount "nipple" is, just above it, is a "hump" in the belt channel. That is where the clicker resides. They didn't give it any mention in the ad, though it is most probably the most important improvement made to any SC chassis.

I assure you, with a front one-way, or clicker, aggro driving takes on a whole new meaning! I'm almost afraid to find out what it's street price will be, but I can say, that dollar for dollar, it will be inexpensive, compared to what Traxxas would have charged for it, had they come up with it.

Mind you, this still won't get me back into off-road, but if the chassis shows promise, I may get one, and mod it for 1/8th on-road GT racing (like the Traxxas Slash 4X4 project, only for bonfide on-road racing!)!  With a few tweaks, it may be just as good there, as in dirt.  I did it with the SC18, and it worked out pretty well! Maybe I can do it at twice the size!!!

Thanx for the Youtube info. Don't have Gmail, but will find out how, from someone here, who has done it, if there are any I can find!

Wow, great explanation!
Gandhar, you should try doing that on 2 2WD vehicle.. LOTS more fun! But, requires mad throttle control to stay in the turn..

Gokemidoro, they seem to have it over at Amain and tower.. 279$.
Doesn't seem bad for that price!

Divyam,4wd makes it easier.I'm spoilt

But great explanation there gokemidoro.

I personally would not go out and buy it immediately.I'd like to see what problems people have with the car.Every car is bound to have problems.The slash had(and has)a driveline problem.

I just don't get why AE didn't advertise the clicker

Hey, guys! Still having troubles with my PC....Tsk!

Divyam,   $279??!! At that price, it'll be easy to mod, for a lot less than I was expecting, which was closer to $400. I did the math - chassis, body, a set of 1/8th foams, and correct shocks - about what I was expecting to pay for just the chassis!

iamahuman, don't let that stop you, as I know a bit something about belt-drive chassis, and about the only things you wil have to concern yourself with (and I believe Associated has addressed this) is belt tension. Everything else is pretty much the same as shafties (except for the clicker). Actually, the chassis is pretty simple, compared to most belt-drives, so you should go ahead and get one if you like, because I can guarantee that any Associated will be quality. I have never been disappointed in any Associated I have ever purchased.
You'll be blown away at how simple the clicker is, too!

Hey, All!

Here's one of the designers of the Associated SC10 4X4 to explain it's finer points:



At apporox. 18:35, you'll see what he says about the clicker, and how it affects handling and power delivery. The rest is selling the chassis, but I don't think he's overstating anything, because of what I see, it's all geared toward total performance, not just one thing or another.  The simplicity is the one thing that impresses me. No bells and whistles, it doesn't look like a Rube Goldberg contraption, just simple, compact design. Look at the width of the chassis!

I like it.

http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_info.php/cPath/1_44_1785/products_id/199030/n/Team-Associated-SC10-4x4-1-10-Scale-Electric-4WD-Short-Course-Race-Truck-Kit

Really aggressive pricing! 269$!!
I MAY just get one, after reading a few reviews.. My main concern is durability..
AE probably makes trucks that are best suited for PRO drivers.. So, for them, durability is not an issue..
But, a newbie like me is likely to crash at the track.. So, I want a durable truck..

Divyam,

No worries. I have had several Associated cars and trucks, and never had a moment's trouble with any of them! Sure, the occasional broken part, but not anywhere near the frequency of any of the Traxxas trucks I've had.  I still have an 18R rally (custom modded for rally), that is more than four years old, has been mercilessly abused, BL powered, with not a single broken part, in any of those four+ years. You may have seen it in one of my links, that one. The red one. I have two others, another that is just as old, with the same track record. The third is too new.

I don't think durability will be a problem with this new truck. I don't think you're very familiar with American RC off-road drivers......They tend to be hard on their equipment, and this truck will take it, I assure you!
Yes, it's a race truck, but it has to take some serious abuse to race, and from what I see, it is stout enough to do anything it's asked to do, as long as it isn't something it wasn't designed to do, like having an oversized power system in it.

I wouldn't be worried about it. It's a game changer. If I were still into off-road, I'd jump on one!

But spares would be a problem here in India.Divyam,if you do get it,I really will have to work on my driving and my only advantage will be more power.The SC class here would go crazy if you get the SC10 4x4.

Yes.. Spare parts.. BIG problem for me.. I really need parts support.. O don't wanna order online, every time I break something as small as a A-Arm..

@Gokemidoro
I read somewhere that you can't out a bigger power plant than a 550 sized can.. It Just wont fit..

A 550 would be more than enough on an SCT.The vxl is almost too much and is a 540 can.The 550 cans have upto 75% longer stators and offer way more torque than is necessary for SCts.

Divyam,

That particular can was the Novak Ballistic SC. It is 7mm too long, and actually shows just how inefficient they can get, when the can cannot fit the application (I guess you can tell I'm not big on Novak, either). ANY other motor will fit, if it is 540/550 size.

My advice on spare parts (get ready, this list will surprise you)?

Front and rear control arms (A-arms), as you said. Besides bodies, that's it. If you are still not satisfied, E-mail Associated, and ask them which parts are continually replaced. I don't think the answer will be much different.

And as Iamahuman says, 550 is too much, especially if you are not going to race. This particular chassis is a lightweight. If you slap in a system too large, you invite disaster. The Traxxas VXL is 3500 Kv. The Castle SCT is 3800 Kv. To go above this is abuse, and you will actually invite broken parts, so stay within reason when choosing a power system for an SC truck. The truck has a number of safety features built into it's design, but it cannot withstand overzealous power choices. No SC truck will, no matter who makes it.

If you are in a position to recommend or sell them, this caveate MUST be stressed, so you are not deluged with folk complaining about how "fragile" the truck is.

On the castle SCT,is it a 550 can?I know its a 4 pole design.And also,have they solved the throttle curve problem?I would like to get one for my slash.

540.

It's specially programmed for SC. LOTS of torque, but limited RPM, as it should be, but it will "wake up" your Slash.

For sure.    

I had one of the early Slashes, and the Sidewinder (non-SC) I had in it required extra weight placed in the front of the chassis, because it wouldn't turn. Too much RPM. It had to be fully off-power to do so.

I think now is where the SC104X4 becomes attractive, because it DOESN'T need to be off-power for turns! It can be motored almost all the way through. With a clicker, all the more so.  

EDIT:

On programming - the SCT is fully programmable, like all of Castle's ESC's. There is a profile for any driver. I've played around with them enough to know. The Castle Link is a must-have.

Thanks.

IF I get one,I will get the castle link too.

Yah, always be ready to try new things.

I think once you try out the Castle Link, you won't be satisfied with any other system. I, myself have no curiosity about other systems, because Castle accomodates all my needs.

You might also give the Surface Field Programming Card a try. It's twice the price of the Link, but you can program your ESC without a PC, and when at home, it will act as the Link (it is USB adaptable), so you have full flexibility! I had the Link first, but tried the SFPC, and found the Link to be redundant, because I was using the SFPC almost exclusively.  It's about $50, so it may still be within your budget, but it's indispensable!   And you only need one, because it will adjust ALL Castle ESC's, AND the HPI Flux!

Yeah..
I'll have to see about the SC104x4..

Either ways, Gandhar, go ahead with the SCT system! (If you can)
Its just 109$ ! So, you may still have some funds left for the programming card!!   

HOW does Castle sell them for so cheap?! Even the new Sidewinder v2.. Cheaper and SUPPOSEDLY more powerful than the previous one! Yet to check that out!

Castle doesn't use "name recognition" to sell their products. They don't have to charge for the name, and have been using the same component suppliers for years, so the need to charge more would only hurt their business, though the quality of their products would remain the same.

It's also the best indicator of just how much extra you pay, for other brands. The fact that their systems aren't sensored is another. Their advances are making sensored systems redundant, because if adjusted correctly, their systems have VERY little "cogging," and are becoming more responsive all the time. The original system I purchased years ago had pretty bad cogging, and couldn't be adjusted out, no matter what you did. The new systems aren't like that, but people who remember that early system won't change their mind, and won't try a new system to verify, so they keep forwarding the same misconceptions. It's the only excuse they use to badmouth Castle.
The four-pole motor system is almost devoid of cogging, has gobs more torque, but still has that distinctive ratcheting beep sound, so people who hate Castle use that to whine, but if that's all they have, to say whether a system is good or bad, they aren't worth listening to.
I have issue with most other brands, because of the price factor vs. quality, though some make good systems, the price is the big turn-off.

Novak should be avoided at all costs. They charge the highest price, for the worst components, of ALL manufacturers. Imagine a car company selling the worst, ugliest, most fragile compact car, for the price of a Ferarri. That's Novak.
Now imagine another car company selling the Shelby Mustang KR "Super Snake," (800BHP) for the price of a Hyundai. That's Castle.     Now toughen up the KR/SS, for 24 hr. LeMans, and that is the new Castle systems. 

They are the only company I know, that sells systems that will outlast the car they're put in.

I wish this very interesting discussion (with lots of useful information) had a better topic title !  The current topic title is so generic