k. here. a pic of the dustboots on both the pivot balls and driveshafts.

as u can see they are ripped already 

1 = pivot ball dustboot.
2 = driveshaft dustboot

Quote from: iamahuman on October 19, 2011, 09:50:31 PM
@Arpit: You said " rubber boots" which don't have anything to do with the bearings. I guess you meant rubber seals. AFAIK, all electric RC's have either rubber seals or metal shields.

Ajit beat me to it

Oopps.. Sorry Mr Pro

Quote from: rajathv8 on July 19, 2011, 07:44:32 PM
Update:

Araldite did not work Didn't last for 30 seconds on road. Spare part has reached the dealer. I will pick it up on Saturday

Are you sure that araldite wont work any how..? Actually my LHS is closed for another 2 days and i had managed to break the exact same thing the exact same way....so wanted to get the car running any how...

Haha yup I'm certain it will not hold up. No harm in giving it a try though

Finally after a looooong time I have acquired bearings for my truck will fix it up tomo.

Sweet!

We're waiting eagerly for the next race. The last two were canceled due to rain...

Race a modded low CG slash with a XXT powered by Nimh power?
Im planning on going to the track this Saturday if things go as per plan
What time does pit-stop open?

Not too sure on the timings. I'd go after 9- 9:30 PM.

I can't be there on Saturday though


If possible, take some friends along with you and get a video...

That's bad. Online it said pitstop opens at 10. Maybe il give them a call and check. Truck is in running condition. I used metal shielded bearings.

Metal shielded ones at the hubs? I don't mean to be bitter but they aren't the best at dirt protection. They allow high rotational speeds though. But go ahead and try them out. If you ever replace them again, go with rubber shielded ones at the hubs. They get abused the most.

The metal shields on a bearing are poorer at keeping the dust out compared to rubber seal's because the metal shield does touch the inner race.
The outer bearing on the XXT wheel hub is protected from dust. On one side it has another bearing and the other side is covered by the aluminum hex drives. The inner bearing is rubber sealed

Found a good link to read about bearings. Here it is:
http://www.edsbearings.com/faqbearings.html

Busted a stock wheel bearing yesterday and jammed another one. It was cleaned quite recently but i did not use any oil after cleaning. Is this the reason for the issue or is it something else? I opened up the jammed bearing but did not find too much dust in it.

Both replaced with new bearings.

The king pin on one of the wheel hex is stuck. It has been this way since when i got it. Any ideas on how to get it un-stuck?

It's always good to oil your bearing after cleaning. Get some 3 in 1 oil. If you have some sewing machine oil at home, make sure it's pretty thin. If it is, you can use that as well.


How is the kingpin stuck? Like stuck due to an adhesive or due to some mechanical glitch? Is gentle force helping in any way? A picture would make things easier....

I dont know why it is stuck. I doubt it has adhesive involved. Maybe some dirt or something.

I have attached a pic.

Place the hex at the table edge to that the pin portion overhangs while the other part is based on table top, hammer a thin nail on the pin!
Works for me, dosent require hard strokes, just fine touches will do.

I have found a bottle of "SWING-R" oil I will report back after trying it on a bearing.

It should work...

All connectors changed to Deans

Finally...

Hey, are you free sometime around the 4th or 5th of March? Divyam, Amartya( amarto on the forum) and I are planning to meet at Pitstop around that time. We'd love for you to join us. Maybe we guys can have an informal race...

I would love to come. Too early to tell though. I will let you know in March

I removed the centre driveshaft to get a feel of how a 2wd truck behaves.
It was crazy!
I applied brakes when it was at full speed. the truck spun out, the stone slab on the gutter served as a ramp and the car went flying into my neighbours gate.
Second time it spun out and almost crashed into neighbours car. I could bring the car to a halt from full speed in a straight line with 4wd easily but with 2wd it was challenging. Even the slightest attempt to turn would make it spin. Steering felt more challenging too.
I like the way the back kicks out in turns. Wheel spins and doughnuts were fun too
Ability to get "unstuck" had reduced significantly. Nothing on my street could get the xxt stuck with 4wd.
Driving a 2wd was fun though. It demands more concentration and skill.
For plain bashing I prefer 4wd. I would like to try 2wd on the track after I get a new set of tyres

Update:
The ball-bearings with metal shields are working well. They are pretty smooth. Only one weel hub has a rubber-sealed ball bearing as of now. I am not able to get the jammed bearings unstuck. I will not give up yet.
The deans are awesome! No heating issue with the connector. No loose connection problems like the ones i faced with tamiya connector.
Tyres are pretty bald These will need replacements soon. They work well on-road though - will most probably be a disaster at the track I plan to buy one set of tyres+rims for the track and off-road bashing and use the current tyres+rims on road.
Rear wing needs replacement - lexan one is out of shape.
The lexan boby is thick and strong. No signs of a crack after all the crashing it has been through.
Shocks leak a little from the shock cap but it does not worry me.
The stock radio is behaves wierdly with respect to throttle reverse. I use duracell batteries and they last for about 2-3 months. I remove alternate batteries when i store the radio between weekends.
Everything else is fine.

Update:
Metal shielded ball bearings are working well on the hubs.
The car is in pieces for maintenance - and to get a feel of putting a car together.
I wanted to buy a new servo, ESC and Tyres for the XXT. Now my priority is to buy a mini RC to use indoors, so no upgrades will go onto the XXT.
Pics:

Wow. By the looks of it, you're going all out, eh? I love doing all out maintenance on my car but don't need to do it as of now.

Be sure to grease the ring and pinion on the diffs. Will you be oiling your bearings as well? If possible, get some mould release compound ( dry silicone) and spray it on all moving parts. It will leave a dry layer of lubrication that will help your bearings and the smoothness of your suspension. If you're re-building your shocks, get yourself some SF-3 grease (It's the same green grease mechanics use on fork seals on bikes). I haven't got my hands on some but it's supposed to be the same stuff as Associated's ' Green Slime'. Your shocks will be a lot smoother and your O-rings will seal well. If you can't get this, normal lithium grease should work well.

Glad to hear that the metal shielded bearings are working fine on the hubs. I was slightly apprehensive of using my metal shielded bearings at the hubs but having read your experience, my doubts have been laid to rest.

TT XXT has a lot if self tapping screws on itself. It's a pain to work with Phillips screws.
I will not be oiling the bearings. Thy seem smooth enough.
I will nit be rebuilding the schcksmthis time around.
Where should the grease be applied?