Shock mod:

The TT shocks are the weakest part of the truck. Shock cups pop off easily due to lateral force on the shock body. The shock cup can be held in place using this simple mod.

pic 1.
Cut strips of tape. Make sure the spring retainer has been inserted onto the shock body. After adding tape the retainer will not slide over the body as the tape increases the shock body diameter.

pic 2 and 3.
Place the strips of tape over the cap as shown. Use two or three strips.

pic 4:
secure the strips on the body using one or two turns of tape.

Note:
1. This mod worked for me. I cannot assure it will work on all terrain as i have not tested it to destruction
2. I used insulation tape - its nice and thick.
3. The pics show a sloppy job because i did this in a hurry in response to a PM.
4. I used red tape to make it stand out. Using black tape makes this mod invisible to the distant eye. There are pics of the truck with the mod on this thread and no one noticed it yet 

Ahh.... nice. Very.... redneck

If I had done that, it would've looked like the work of a Neanderthal

Quote from: rajathv8 on September 18, 2011, 12:55:35 AM
Shock mod:

The TT shocks are the weakest part of the truck. Shock cups pop off easily due to lateral force on the shock body. The shock cup can be held in place using this simple mod.

pic 1.
Cut strips of tape. Make sure the spring retainer has been inserted onto the shock body. After adding tape the retainer will not slide over the body as the tape increases the shock body diameter.

pic 2 and 3.
Place the strips of tape over the cap as shown. Use two or three strips.

pic 4:
secure the strips on the body using one or two turns of tape.

Note:
1. This mod worked for me. I cannot assure it will work on all terrain as i have not tested it to destruction
2. I used insulation tape - its nice and thick.
3. The pics show a sloppy job because i did this in a hurry in response to a PM.
4. I used red tape to make it stand out. Using black tape makes this mod invisible to the distant eye. There are pics of the truck with the mod on this thread and no one noticed it yet  

Super Excellent Work...!
BRAVO!!!!
Love u for this mann...  
Guys i asked rajath to explain in detail, and he spent his valuable time for explaining this to me in such a detailed and illusive way, What a guy..  

Welcome Arpit

Man! Simply superb !! Your passion for the car shows in the DIY's. It had been ages since i'd visited the forum and on checking your thread i couldn't resist commending ur job. Hope to see you at the track soon

Hey guys, how about we meet sometime in Oct? I'll be free from the 5th to the 27th. I've sent messages to all of you telling you what's gonna be happening to my slash

Lets tear the track up

PS: Post no. 2000!!

Yeah lets all go! I have Dasara vacations going on

3 more exams to go. Divyam, finish rebuilding your slash. We'll fix on a time and race the XXT, 2 slash 4x4's and shashank's revo...

That sounds good
Thanks ajith

when r u guys gonna meet up at the track

Not decided yet...

can i join u too

Sure

wheres the track

Had a muddy bashing session early morning yday. Ran the car on patches of grass. Didnt realize that the grass was wet as it rained the previous night. The car was completely wet but luckily nothing happened.
Cleaning session later the XXT is squeeky clean and disinfected with detol now

The shock mod still holding up well though i noticed that little oil had leaked from the shock cap. Love this truck

The long antenna is annoying. The antenna tube comes off when the truck lands on its body. It can be solved by bending the tube hiding it below the body buy a shorter antenna wire and tube would have helped.

Will upload the video later

why dont u guys listen to this in the mean while

Muddy and wet bashing jammed up one of the wheel bearings. It has rusted. Any ideas to get the rust out? I will experiment before buying a new set how do the trx cars handle water? The bearings have to be removed and cleaned after every wet session? Sounds cumbersome.

The manual does suggest WD-40ing the bearings before and after running in water. Try to soak it in some WD40 with the seals off. If it doesn't free up, get a new one. If you're satisfied with the amount of rust that has been removed, hit it with some degreaser or brake cleaner fluid and put in a drop or two of 3 in 1 oil. I've got an interesting spray that seems to be working VERY well on my bearings. I'll show it to you when we meet up. My wheel bearings are uber smooth!!

I'd suggest this place for bearings. I got some for my steering rack from them. Pretty inexpensive too. I had them send it by courier and they arrived the next day...

Thank you for the info I will check it out
Where did you buy 3in1 oil? 

I don't have 3 in 1 oil. The spray I have seem to clean and lubricate the bearings.

Quote from: rajathv8 on October 18, 2011, 09:38:01 PM
Muddy and wet bashing jammed up one of the wheel bearings. It has rusted. Any ideas to get the rust out? I will experiment before buying a new set how do the trx cars handle water? The bearings have to be removed and cleaned after every wet session? Sounds cumbersome.

Best tip for that will be remove the tires and wipe your car with a dry cloth after every 'Wet' run...
BTW i also had the same problem with my sparrowhawk,though never gave much attention to it..But yes WD-40 (frankly any anti-rust lqd) works best.
Regarding Trx, i know that revo has rubber boots to protect the dirt and mud from getting in and spoiling.

@Arpit: The dust boots are on the half shafts( on the Revo3.3 and the ERBE)are to protect the pillow- balls.

Bro,revo has -

Sealed front and rear differentials
Sealed driveshafts
Sealed pivot ball suspension
Rubber-sealed ball bearings

the diffs and ball bearings are sealed.

as for the shafts and the pivot balls,

they have dust boots on them which pretty much keep dust, dirt and other stuff out and keep them moving smoothly.

the ones on the pivot balls will survive for a long time until a pivot ball pops out and thats when they will rip.

as for the drive shafts, the traxxas ones are slider shafts. the dustboots are stretchable upto a point and stretch everytime the halfshafts slide in and out.

but with the brushless power on the Maxx, mine have been ripped pretty bad. but the ones on the summit are still in good condition.

since the driveshafts are splined and need to slide in and out with minimum resistance, the dust boots are a must.

and rajat - just try wd40 on the bearing. the pivot balls on the emaxx rusted up pretty bad after the salt water dip. but wd-40 and a toothbrush helped a lot. as for water use, i ran the summit in water a lot. the only maintanence on that is blowing all the water out with a air compressor and then spraying wd-40 with a long straw type thingy which comes with the can and let it sit the night, clean it up with a cloth the next day. keeps everything spinning nice and free.

@Arpit: You said " rubber boots" which don't have anything to do with the bearings. I guess you meant rubber seals. AFAIK, all electric RC's have either rubber seals or metal shields.

Ajit beat me to it