Quote from: shobhit17 on July 06, 2014, 09:31:48 PM
..........do you expect this thing to fly

same was quoted to Hughes when he went on to build the Spruce goose..

@Priyum Thank you for giving me confidence ... i really am happy that some people are still there who encourages beginners
@tantragna sir that was really touching and please don't compare me Howard Hughes he was a mastermind and i don't stand up a little upto him

Well dear Yash..... All I can say is best of luck.....
I say so because I am a  lot concerned about the overall strength of the fuselage, Fin and the Wing.  Though I make smaller planes than your but I do use Plywood or Glass Fibre cloth with epoxy to provide strength at a lot pf places.... my wings are far stronger even if they are just 4 - 5 feet in plan....

@shobit17 sorry for not clarifying but i will be fiber glassing the fuselage... waiting for finish cure epoxy from hk as suggested by KK Iyer sir... i think you was not aware about it

@yash10896

your project is a winner from the start keep going bro.

big power comes with big responsibility.

@wingmanbunty Thanks bro

Well... your wing too needs more strength.... the wing loading is going to be enough to breast the present setup.... You may consider using a hardwood spar along the top and bottom of the wing along with balsa LE and a TE...... the centre section would be ok if it is given a layer of glass fibre..
I have broken many a wings while doing aeros..... and the latest was able a month ago... repaired the same wing with a vertical hard balsa 5mm spar....all along the center section and up to more than half the span...

please see the whole thread.. i have used balsa spar(6mm) on center line and balsa ribs which are way stonger as they are 6mm each... and for LE i think foam can take the pain of that and also i will be fiber glassing the whole wing and fuse....

UPDATE!!!!
Just reached home after coaching and here i got my 1st parcel
my batteries are on its way from Malaysia and it is coming by surface instead of air so it will take time...
this one was from Singapore post via chennai and i recieved withing 9 days from updation on singpost website
so pretty good service....
i am so luck more than 8 parcels came with mostly 1.5kg-3kg ones and still never had to pay custom even for bixler
will update you guys about the work on c17
Regards
yash

Congrats!!
Why not lets test your model with two 3300mAh lipos with me each weighing 260gm?

@utkarsh please have patience buddy
i know you are excited to see it run but first i have do some electronics work which is mainly soldering and for that i got wires and heatsink today..
without proper electrical connection how will we run it
so today i will try to complete all soldering work and will build other 3 nacelles for edf's which is leftover job...

Regards
yash

Ok. but keep on updating.

I have been silently following this build for a while now, very few times when i have been this excited to see something go up in the air.

@teamnamibia Thank you sir

UPDATE!!
Soldering done it was a lot of work as my main concern was battery y cable which i did first time...
it took almost 3hrs + one burned finger
made edf motor extension 6 nos for 2..
also soldered ESC's wire...
Regards
yash

i was waiting for your update...

so yesterday was my day off in coaching so did some important work
naccelle made for 2nd EDF and installed on wing using araldite epoxy....
did wiring of led's,servo's and motor wiring....
mounted new screws as before it was M3 which doesn't seem strong enough so i had gone for M6 ones..
mounted a switch for led as it brightens even if tx is off when connected with battery so i had gone for this type of solution....

P.S just got my first finger cut of this build where for the first time i was not using glove while working with knife
Regards
yash

 

What purpose are you using the switch for? If it is from an old-school model/receiver battery switch, used between lipo and the rest of the electrics, better take it off the circuit completely.

They are not rated for high power circuitry and just for the Alkaline/NiCad's, which does not load up the switch. Even back in those days, the switch was considered fancy as it only increases the points-of-failure.. It is always advisable that you consider to minimise the points of failures while designing/building anything for the matter that operates critical systems.

Note: Critical systems means, for us in such as airframe-design in an aircraft, its control systems [like elevator, ailerons,etc], communication systems and it has the same interests like in medical electronics, disaster control systems, etc..

Points-of-failure means, all those components that are involved in a system which could impair the system off its fundamental purpose, for example, between the servo and a control surface [say elevator], we can minimise/limit the number of components used that may not be necessary altogether for functioning of the system. As an alternative, you can just use a metal wire [as push rod] with both the ends bent as Z between the two horns and reduce/completely-takeoff the use of clevis and thereby limit the points of failure, in this case the clevis as they are "not must have's".

Clevis has its advantage when it serves the ease of usability to detach/attach the joints in case the servo and the removable part [maybe the wing] that can be used during transporting back and forth to the airfield/hanger. So in such case, the clevis will hold the position of the trimmed position with the ease of field de/linking the actuators to its intended terminals.

Ok back to your story, in short you may directly connect the battery terminal to the Esc or any drain source it has to be connected and thereby lessening the chance of failure by one point [here in this case, the switch].

PS: Your soldering/electronics skills are commendable!

Quote from: yash10896 on July 23, 2014, 09:05:55 PM
did wiring of led's,servo's and motor wiring....
mounted new screws as before it was M3 which doesn't seem strong enough so i had gone for M6 ones..
mounted a switch for led as it brightens even if tx is off when connected with battery so i had gone for this type of solution....

P.S just got my first finger cut of this build where for the first time i was not using glove while working with knife
Regards
yash

@tantragna
sir thank you for that helpful information about the right usages of switches
but sir as i have quoted above i am using it for LED which is not a major component....
and the switch was bought from hk few weeks back
link:
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewItem.asp?idProduct=4841

 

had not read the entire post, just pondered around your pics and was little worried on the scene of the switch.    Oh yeah.. just flashed my mind I need to get one set of switch for my model now, inspired from your work i should say.. 

Amazing build 
Have you done the nose steering mechanism? If yes, can you share a snap of it with the nose landing gear? A video is more helpful

And again, thats a outstanding build! You should have participated in sweepstakes!

@vijai Thank you sir for the appreciation 
yes i have done nose steering mechanism and uploading the pics i will do i video of all working components after finishing it...
i have used Emax 9gm servo for steering using push rod with clevis binded to one end as my retracts came with nose steering arm so not much complicated work there its easy peasy 

Regards
yash

Great! I was thinking of doing it for my coro plane (I know it isnt needed. but I just want to experiment). Searched internet after posting here. got lot of ideas. But what channel will you use for steering?  

P.S: No sir. Again a young blood here 

ok buddy no sir
i use channel 7 of fs th9x its a flip switch you have to programme it like "throttle hold" in AUX ch 7....
if you need help pm me

EDIT : sorry for the confusion guys but i use steering of nose gear using a y-cable with rudder so when rudder moves right,the wheels also moves right u have to change the servo horn pushrod location for synchronizing it
hope it helps

Regards
yash