Quote from: VC on July 12, 2012, 07:46:17 PM
Aye Aye Cap'n! Now do you think I should give the 900Kv a shot?

absolutely, with a matching prop, she will fly well, rolling take off and off you go, can do some real cool slow approach and landing. 

Quote from: sundaram on July 12, 2012, 01:56:00 PM
Your avispad is going to be a slow flyer.

Just for knowledge.
Sir how you decide whether it will be a slow flyer or fast one ?

Lift, Thrust and Drag, drag comprises of Zero Lift Drag (mainly governed by total wetted area) and Lift Dependent drag (High Lift aerofoil, swept back aerofoil, high angle of attack) High Lift (High camber, low speed required to support the weight)

For more explanation read Basic AD thread

Thanks all. Build progressing rather slowly for the last few days. Will update soon.

Where should the landing gear be placed? How many millimeters from the nose? How close to the CG is ideal? Does it make a big difference?

This power plant would be the ideal for yours with 10x6 prop on 3 S.

http://www.rcindia.org/for-sale/for-sale-turnigy-d28369-950kv-brushless-outrunner-motor/msg109213/#new

If tail drager I would say, under carriage at 1/3 the distance of CG from nose ahead of CG.

Undercarriage position noted.

Motor is too expensive since I already have a lot of choices to experiment with. Further the seller is asking for Rs.1400/- for a Rs.684/- product (instead of trying to merely recover his money, as explained in his post -"Bought it for a friend and now he does not needs one.. shucks"   )  and the reviews are not too hot anyway. Will let this one pass.

VC, Check aeroworks.

VC, there is a smaller version of this bird called the avipark. Your earlier mentioned motor seems well suited for it just in case

Undercarriage assembly. Bicycle spokes through coro flutes. Wheel struts reinforced with a carbon fibre spar embedded in coro.

The build process. The centre coro spar has a CF rod embedded in it and the entire thing is hot glued in place. I think I will remove the hot glue from  one side of the joint and strengthen it with epoxy.

VC
you will need a anti rotation bend which will go into the fuse, parallel to Normal axis. See image

Thanks. Anti rotation bend has been done. Uploading in a while.

Schematic showing the Anti Rotation Bend.

Wow! VC your build looks very nice  Another method for the cycle spoke kind of LG is to have two pieces of it through the coro to both ends but joined at both sides in a "V" (or "Y") shape. This has proven quite good even for a full size SPAD Deb for me.

Thanks Sam. Any pics?

Let me try to draw one for you.

Was wondering how to give her a tail wheel, when my daughter came up with a good suggestion of modifying a Coke bottle cap. Will give it a try, though I am still looking for a wheel cannibalised from a broken toy car.

Pl see the picture for LG.

VC, forgive me for the crappy drawing I just made . But hope that will give you an idea to consider in your future projects. If you tie a piece of rubber band in between them, it gives you an effective shock absorbing system too ( I recommend this as this adds strength too)

Mjet, thats an excellent way too if the iron rod wont bent. I devised this way as the one I had was a bit soft.

Thanks will definitely try this on future builds.

Mjet, that spoke is definitely thicker than what I am using. Where does one get Kevlar from?

Quote from: VC on July 18, 2012, 12:38:43 PM
Where does one get Kevlar from?

Thin muslin, denatured alcohol, Epoxy, you got yourself a bullet proof materiel

here is one
Carbon Fiber and Kevlar-29 Cloth (180g/m2) 1mtr

Sir looking beautiful

Quote from: VC on July 18, 2012, 12:16:24 PM
Was wondering how to give her a tail wheel

Sir u can have this idea. If he suits you. here is the link
http://www.rcindia.org/tools-materials-and-building-techniques/tail-wheel-an-easy-build/

manoj

I use a triangular piece of lite ply epoxied under the tail section. Before its epoxied, I will have a piece of high temper wire (usually use HK control rod piece) for mounting the tail wheel and its steerable. Later I found out that HK has a similar thing  

For smaller models like the avi, you could pass the rod straight up the rudder hinge line and epoxy into the first flute. Never had a problem.

http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewItem.asp?idProduct=8004