the next few steps are smaller that consists of soldering the gold bullet connectors and applying heat shrink tubing to the esc and motor wires, then soldering the deans battery connectors (not in the kit) on to the esc. and mounting motor battery and esc. until then i suggest you to watch these video's so that you can complete the soldering part.



you need to buy the deans connector

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xZU9rtACdZY&feature=related

Subu ,
For additional safety I would recommend you ZIP Tag the servos to the fuse stick.

sai

Quote from: Pikle6 on June 02, 2009, 04:50:45 PM
though the wire appears to be bent it works fabulously using cycle spokes with connectors is recommended. sorry that i did not use that method

The Z bends you made are not good.They are done very poorly and they let the pushrod move side to side at the servo end Z bend. Replace them with the supplied pushrods and connectors.
Rao.

In addition to zip ties double sided foam tape is also desirable as it dampens shock and vibrations and protects servo.
Rao

Hi Subu,

Superb dude, very nice of you to include the videos 

Can we buy the dean's connector and the heat shrinking tubing from a local electronics shop ? Rather is it easily available ?

Kindly Advice..

Superb work Subu..   

thanks you rao uncle for your valuable opinion to stop the z bend problem from happening i have used a bit of hot glue which can be easily removed when needed and about the zip ties i will buy more of them and use them thanks. anyway i will replace the pushrods before the first flight.

you can get deans plugs from sai uncle or from sunil uncle (Indian hobbies) in pune and heat shrink tubing too otherwise ask sai uncle. Well i did say that the given push rods were recommended but the ones i have used work very good rao uncle. the problem is that i did not make a proper z bend that's it. other wise it works just like cycle spokes.

Sorry ,I think I have missed out the JST connectors as they are the ones on the battery.
I will send them tomorrow .
sai

oh thanks a lot sai uncle for sending them

Please send the part to me as well if you have not included that in my package.. thanks

Dear Pickle,
It is not advisable to have Z bends at both ends of a push rod. You should have a connector at one end at least which allows adjustment of push rod while trimming the plane and setting control throws.
If you are using Z bend at the control horn end of a push rod use Screw Lock push rod connectors installed on servo horns.
If you are using Z bend at the servo arm end of the push rod use an adjustable screw on clevis at the control horn end of the push rod. Or you could also install a screw lock push rod connector on the control horn
The important thing is that you should be able to finely adjust the push rod length.
Good Luck
---Rao

I second Rao's opininon on the push rods... I am sorry to say that it is poorly done. The Z bend should be crisp and short. The bend you made has room for a lot of wobble.. further I see that there the push rod itself bows. It may work perfectly but if you fly on a windy day you will notice flutter. Once the flutter sets in it gets amplified little by little until you lose total control of the model...  I have been a victim of flutter once. After that I take special care for the control rods and make them tight and strong.

Believe me, in SPADs you will have flutter.. If you don't have flutter then either you have a good control rod.. OR.. you are not flying hard..

Quote from: Rao on June 03, 2009, 01:03:45 AM
It is not advisable to have Z bends at both ends of a push rod. You should have a connector at one end at least which allows adjustment of push rod while trimming the plane and setting control throws.

Oh. BTW.. there is nothing wrong in having Z bends at both the ends of the push rod... For fine tuning you need to have a "V" or a "trapizoidal" bend in between the ends of the push rod. If for some reason you need to adjust the length you need to open up or squeeze the "V" bend a little.

thank you for all the suggestions now i will replace them and post pics later
well my school reopens today wish me luck guys
and by the way skip the deans soldering video you don't need it anymore

You are correct Mr.Izmail. One can use the V bend method with Z bends at both ends. I had completely forgotten about this tip because I never used it even though it is one of the earlier methods. But I hate Z bends because it is difficult to make them perfectly on thicker rods like cycle spokes without a Z-bend making tool. However it is easy to do on smaller diameter push rods like piano wires etc where Z bends are the only option available because rod end connectors are not easily/usually available for such small diameter wires.
Regards
Rao.

Good morning all,

How are you doing today , i got my mr.moss yesterday with an upgraded motor and a 1000mah frm mr.sai.

I succesffully glued the wings and soldered the gold connectors and all that.. for pics please go here

http://www.rcindia.org/electric-planes/mr-moss-glider-official-build-manual/msg1975/?topicseen#msg1975

The best way to put in the z-bends what i can make out is put in the servos first and then take the appropriate measurement and cut the spokes if required and bend them, but unfortunately the given spokes would not go in the control horns provided.

can anyone suggest me what to do abt this or any alternative. Thanks

good day !

atul g.

Atul ,
I have mentioned here don't glue the wing till the end.
It is very easy to get the CG by sliding the wing along the fuse till the plane balances or slightly nose heavy after test fitting all parts.

I use spokes with  servo horn connectors  OR make the hole slightly wider  to suit the dia.

Aero Modeling is about using your imagination and arriving at solutions , it is not ness. that all solutions have to be the same.

Don't get scared to experiment , it is essential for improvement . If someone had not experimented with CORO we would not have SPAD or MR MOSS in the first place

As per me Aero Modeling  is not only flying, building is as important ( if not more important  ) than flying.

Sai

         Fantastically said Mr. Sai. I totally agree with you. Till date i have made 4 planes of my own without any plans, Just imagination, and out of 4, 3 flew very well. one flew but OK OK sort, all are now lying in my hanger (above the almirah - LOL)

Atul,

As everyone said keep experimenting without comprimising on the structural integrity. For sticking in the spoke into the servo arm - just have a small peice of the spoke in the drilling machine (like a drill bit) and slowly enlarge the hole in the arm. This would make a perfect fit for the cycle spoke and there wont be any play in the linkage.

For the z - bend you can do it without heating the spoke. You just need to have a good pointed nose pliers. But if you find heating the spoke is comfortable then its fine. Just be careful with it.

-Ismail

Hello all,

thanks for going through my post.. mr. sai i hv not glued the main wing to the stick & yes i will make sure i get the correct cg by sliding the wing... Izmile thanks man u are the king of spads and a real inspiration to all newbees.. I will make sure i try the suggested techniques..

Yup i will try to make the holes bigger keeping in mind that i dont mess with the horns.. Oh yes i totally agree this hobby is all about imagination and making things right..

Thank god i met you wonderful people, atleast for once i am heading the right way   ..

Will keep you guys posted about mr.moss... am totally addicted to spads now..hehehe..

sorry guys for no posts. this strange thing happened to my internet connection. each and every other website other than rcindia was opened. and by the i have finished mounting each and every thing hope to complete the guide in two days. if internet works.

We had a server move yesterday, and it was supposed to be fairly transparent to users.  If you had an extended outage, that would be because your ISP is not correctly honoring TTL timeouts on DNS changes (if you don't know what that meant, just google it    )

thank you anwar bhaiya for clarification

hey guys please wait for 5 mins i am uploading pics

moving on to the next step guys
please note that i am assuming that you have soldered the bullet connectors and jst or deans plugs to the esc.



Sai uncle- i have not received the jst pins yet.
so what did i do. i took to an old y connector cut out the adapter , removed the signal wire soldered the black and red to that of esc and the two pin connector of esc plugs into the y adapter socket easily and tightly. until my jst connectors arrive i am using these only.

so the next step is to mount the motor mount.
again two ways of doing it

either you drill it or apply a layer of anabond inside and outside
i chose the anabond method coz i did not have drilling machine at home.
trust me using anabond make it rock hard and a layer of fibre tape is the best combo
anyway drilling is preferred. but would have been nice to see the holes pre drilled but sai uncle cannot to anything as the fuse stick is from GWS. anyway lets begin with anabond method basically what you have to do is to place the mount on the stick mark out the outlines apply anabond and place the mount on it and hold for 30 seconds. then start applying anabond to the sides to give it extra strength. a layer of fibre tape on top of that is just the icing on the cake.

sorry i have only i pics of this.

next step is not to mount the motor but to mount the battery. first place the battery on the fuse stick and loosely tie a zip tie.

next start to tighten it to a point where the the battery is tight but can be remove with a bit of force for charging use two of zip ties for this purpose

now cut out the extra bit left


now for the last part mounting the motor and esc. i recommend you mounting the motor first then connect the esc.
note 2204 bl motor cannot be mounted with screws so please use the following method.

first insert a zip tie through the hole between the x mount on the motor.

now do that for all four sides for me i could insert only one zip tie as there was no room in the other places so i used the anabond very very very very little so that i could remove the motor. using acetone will help in faster removal.
anyway here the motor mounted


now connect esc and stick it behind the battery with some fibre tape or use zip ties. adjust battery accordingly. also connect the extension on the esc


now only two more steps are left mounting the prop and plugging it all in to the receiver.
so in a few minutes i will post how to do that too.
coz i forgot too take the picture of the receiver.

anyway my finished moss with cable management

sorry also i am replacing the push rods after the picture shoot. so will post pics later

also for ones using the push rod connector here's a pic to help you


sorry sai uncle i took it from your website if it is not allowed please tell me i will remove it right away