Hello, I am new to the flying field.
I have a2212/6t 2200kv BLDC motor + 30 Amps and using 9X4.7 Propeller. using this combination my ESC always burst please tell me whats wrong I am doing my 2 ESCs was burst and I don't want to burst 3 one.
Thanks in advance.
I hope you didn't join battery's Red with esc's black wire...
Or didn't leave the connectors or soldered wire open so that it can short circuit
What is the name of esc is it a yellow colour no name?
No, battery's polarity was the same and even I properly soldered the wires and wrap the tape around them.
Note : Motor always runs but at peak throttle, ESC gets very hot.
It will happen
Yellow colour
Does your motor run only at peak throttle? Did you check the tx settings??
But what plane are you building?
No, I have already calibrated the transmitter before testing motor.
It's 3d printed spitfire. https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2349879
if every thing is ok meaning the connections etc.
then your motor is pulling too much amp which are beyond esc capability.
9x47 prop on 2200KV motor is wrong combination @ 3s battery.
try running motor without prop and see ... if all is ok, then use a smaller prop, usually <7 inch prop.
you can use a 40-60 Amp esc but then your motor or battery will get the hit .
Thanks, I was also thinking that was due to the propeller. I tested esc it worked smoothly without the propeller and once I attached the propeller it become way hot.
FOR A 2200 kv motor use a small prop preferably under 7 inch as pointed up above... the prop is too much for the motor to handle
Use 6x4 prop or 5x5 prop
If I replace 2200 kv with 1400 kv motor will it be ok?
Why not but now use 8x4 prop or 9x4
But before that please ensure what is type of your craft
Jet need high kV motor and 6 inch prop
Trainer need low kV and more than 7 inch prop
Before using any motor
Please follow the table given below in motors manual for prop details.
I have 3d printed yak55 https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2863212 please tell me which propeller and motor suits this airecraft b/w a2212/6t 2200kv or/13t 1400kv + 30 amp esc + lipo 3s battery
1400kv will be suitable with 7 to inch prop with 3s battery as 20a ESC but if you have 30a you can use it. It will be much better if you use 1500 to 1800mah 3s lipo
Ok
Quote from: raj_flyer on June 18, 2018, 10:14:31 AM
It's 3d printed spitfire. https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2349879
Wow! What a choice for your first model!
Saw the site you mentioned, but could not find 3 important things:
1. Size of the model
2. Its weight
3. Whether the prototype has been flown successfully
Without this data it's not possible to select a suitable propulsion system, (motor wattage, kv, prop, Esc)
Choice of Lipo, 2s or 3s, also depends on these factors.
The capacity (mah) of the lipo depends on how much weight the model can carry.
So the suggestion that 'a 1500 or 1800 mah 3s will be much better', seems premature to me...
I presume that you are aware of the suitability (or otherwise) of a scale Spitfire (that may perhaps be quite heavy) as a first model for a newcomer to build and learn to fly on...
Quote from: tictoc21 link=topic=30609.msg289756# msg289756 date=1529307382
It will be much better if you use 1500 to 1800mah 3s lipo
@tictoc21
Much better than what?
@ K K Iter sir,
I'm guessing if raj_flyer is using 2200 mah battery, then he may unable experience 3d flying on his aircraft ( as he only mention 3s lipo cell and not it's capacity), so it will much better to use 1400kv motor along with 8 inch prop having 1500 to1800 mah battery rather than 2200mah as most of beginner tend to buy 2200mah.
That's not perfect formula sir , as his choice is mid wing , so I post it according to my experience it is his choice to follow or not.
But which battery capacity will you recommend him for his 3D printed yak55sir?
And please do correct me if I'm wrong?
I am using 3s 1000mAH battery. I also do have 2s 2200mAH but it makes plane heavier.
how do you balance the CG ?
if you are able to balance CG with 1000mah then its the best to use. keeping AUW lowest for plane.
Select a appropriate motor depending the weight of your printed plane...
I could reach to the balancing of CG of the plane, before that my ESCs was burnt.
I think the voltage might be wrong....
Are you using Li-Fe??
If not check the voltage from a shop...
I am using LiPo 3S (11.7v) Battery.
11.7??
What is the length of the battery to ESC wires ? Long wires can damage the ESC, if no !ow ESR capacitors are added.
Long wires of which color ? Any specific color which can damage esc.
Can u explain how long wires damage esc without using "if" in your explanation.
Copied from another forum.......
The voltage is like water running through pipes on it's way to a faucet (the ESC), when the faucet is wide open you have water running through it at a normal pressure. If all the sudden you slam the faucet closed, the water that is already in the pipes moving has nowhere to go and is carrying momentum, builds up pressure, and sometimes causes the pipes to bang momentarily, and then pressure normalizes. The ESC works much in the same way, when you slam the throttle closed, the voltage in the wires that has already left the battery has nowhere to go since it will not be used. It builds up "pressure" against the ESC in the form of voltage spikes, sometimes very high. The ESC has capacitors on it that absorb those spikes, but if you add additional length, the voltage spikes can exceed what those capacitors are able to handle, and over time may fail, allowing the higher than rated voltage to enter the ESC and potentially do damage. To combat this, you need to add, 1 additional capacitor for each 4"-6" of battery wire you add.
https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?952523-too-long-battery-wires-will-kill-ESC-over-time-precautions-solutions-workarounds
This post explains it more......
This might be a layman's explanation of voltage spike but whoever has read electronics / electrical will consider it absurd explanation.
Length of wire is nowhere related to spoiling ESC. ( when you cut the voltage the switch is in ESC not at the battery )
However what can matter for a efficient transfer of energy ....
1. Wire thickness
2. length of wire ( I am talking of efficient system, ESC will not blow due to length. Here I mean the resistance of wire )
3. you can have battery to ESC wires as long ( correct thickness - wire Gauge) but keep the motor to ESC shortest possible.
4. good solder joints. ( I don't recommend putting connectors)
regds
Saurabh
Too long battery wires will kill your ESC over time!
Voltage spikes higher than battery voltage will destroy components and/or the standard input capacitors (large cylindrical thingies in thin colourfull shrink wrap) will be destroyed over time because they get warmer/hot. Using thicker wire will not help, it's a wire inductance problem, not a resistance problem. See Lenz's law. Inductance is what makes sparkplugs spark, 15-25kilovolt.
This goes for all makes, they all use the same principle (except SLS controllers, they use sinusoidal commutation instead of trapezoid and tested 150m extension without extra capacitors). However, lengthening the motor wires may lead to radio interference. Give the three of them a twist to prevent this.(copied).
Original post -- https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?952523-too-long-battery-wires-will-kill-ESC-over-time-precautions-solutions-workarounds
Nice Link, thanks for sharing.
I learnt something today. I doubt how many of aeromodellers take care of it.
May be most of us use low current applications and decent wire length which are handled with the stock capacitor in ESC.
One post from the same thread below explains.
So if too long wires damage it what is too long actually...
Few days ago, pop sound comes from my diy quad. Today, one motor is not running properly and esc are much hotter and motor also much hotter than other motor then i replaced the esc with new one and motor is working. This means my esc is brust?
Normally 4 inch battery wire and 4 inch esc wire so total 8-10 inch wire length is compensated by the stock cap on esc. If you are going longer than this you should consider extra cap basis thumb rule in rc group thread.
This might help someone using newer ESC with braking.
https://discuss.ardupilot.org/t/dshot-reliability-and-wraith32-v2-esc-fire/29619/3
Perfect, as most points given, perhaps it could even be ESC faulty as it heats up