Quote from: taitil on March 19, 2014, 10:32:08 AM
Good build Sanjaybhai...
Piper Cub is my favorite model...

Taitil bhai - Thanks

Quote from: topalle on March 19, 2014, 10:49:59 AM
yup its my favourite too.
sir can you please post a closeup of the motor mount and firewall

Certainly Topalle. Very soon

Quote from: sanjayrai55 on March 19, 2014, 08:53:43 AM
Thanks MKS

Come and fly with us in Gurgaon sometime

Sure Sir..

rightnow I'm building one small foamie for newly bought 1818 Odin..

Good luck with your build MKS 

Build continues.

Fitting servos, pushrods and wing bolts. The kit comes with no hardware nor wing mount system, so I improvised

Hingeing. Anyone from Pune? There is a place called Hinge-wadi there 

Mylar hinges for the tail empennage; pin hinges for ailerons

yesh  sanjay sir,


Hingewadi is pretty close to our pancard flying field...

but any one would hardly find any RC related hinges there

Very nice sir... looks amazing

Thanks Girish

Ready for covering and assembly

Covering started. Used transparent yellow as I had it in stock, and couldn't get solid Cub yellow locally.

First painted the cowl and wheel hubs, and fitted the wing (aileron) servos

I fit servos (in these positions where screwing down is not possible) by using heavy duty double sided foam tape and a Zip (Cable) Tie. Reliable.

* Hint: If you use E-Max 8.5 gram servos, save the card packing. Makes a perfect template for marking out servo holes when you need to cut them. Same size as all standard 8.5'9 gram servos from HK etc.

Covering

Covering complete. Started assembly

Used a commercial motor mount from RCB as the motor has to be forward for the cowling fitting and CG balancing

Display quality workmanship.
Sir, why do you waste your time on coros?
Change the pilot before he gets stuck inside the cockpit

Iyer sir 

Corro models are fun too, and cause less heartache when they crash 

The Jerry Pilot is now glued into his seat and refuses to come out unless Tom the Cat enters the cabin 

IF I was the judge of sweepstakes...

I would award Sanjay  sir for the fastest builder of the year......

cant wait to see this beauty into the air 

Admin: Please make madaquif the judge

Everyone knows this.
Any member appointed judge will come to the same conclusion. 

i am with madaquif sir!!

Beautiful sanjay sir.
give me some tips to cover balsa. does any other option for shrinking the covering without having that heat ion.

yes cover with kite paper and damp it with some glue and water sol...... the paper will streach once dry
but it will be delicate.

else use tape..... then iron it . that will iron out the wrinkles

I tried some gelatin paper and other plastic covering sheets. but the problem is How to stick that on balsa.
orocover  covering films have glue on one side.

@manoj... you can use a hairdryer to heat shrink the covering.
@sanjay sir... thanks for th pics

Manoj:

1. Up to about 28~30 " span you can use tissue: Put the tissue on with glue, then spray water and let dry. The tissue shrinks tight. Now coat with Dope (NC Lacquer)

2. For 25 and above nitro models you can use nylon. Use an old sari, then Dope and paint (Oil Paint works fine)

3. Gusty sir has used Cellophane wrapping paper with success. Details are in my Red Swan build

4. Heat Shrink can be applied using an ordinary electric iron. A small travelling iron (about Rs. 400 on e-bay) works fine.

5. Be careful if using an electric hair dryer. It can pull the covering off the glued surface and ruin it

Quote from: sanjayrai55 on March 22, 2014, 06:17:24 PM
3. Gusty sir has used Cellophane wrapping paper with success. Details are in my Red Swan build

yes i have ! i prefer oracover though, for simple reason that, cellophane looses strength after a while. it is not at all water friendly, it is light however, after a few days you need to apply heat once again, else the skins sags again. other than that, for cheap and best repairs and micro aeroplane use, cellophane is as good as it can get

Started finishing