Rudder and Tail Wheel
1. Cut and remove the covering of the groove at the bottom of the rudder.
2. Dry fit the tail wheel, mark it, and drill a hole with a 1.5 mm bit.
3. Apply epoxy and install the LG into the slot, one more layer on top for better hold. (See image)
1. Dry fit and widen the hinge slots if required of the rudder;.
2. Check alignment of the rudder and fin.
3. Put half hinge hold it in place with a very very little CA (Don't use pin to hold it in place).
4. With rudder flushed at the bottom of the fuselage and rudder fully deflected apply a few drops of CA on both sides of the hinges and keep deflecting till CA dries, pull it and see.
5. Seal the hinge gap as explained earlier.

 Elevator & Rudder servos & Linkages
1. Use 14 to 15" extensions.
2. Dry rudder and elevator servos with output shaft closer to the control surface.
3. Pinvice with 1.5mm drill for the servo mounting screws.
4. The servo mounts have ply doublers reinforcement not required.
5. Servo leads runs along the bottom of the fuselage use cable ties if required to secure them.
6. Use CF pushrods 92mm for the elevator and 111m for the rudder.
8. Fix  elevator and rudder control horns as explained earlier.

9. Rudder slot is 10.6mm from the bottom for rudder elevator is 6.4mm from the root rib for the elevator for marking the slot.
10. Horns and clevis and the ball links are fixed same as ailerons

 Motor Box
1. Reinforce motor box with Titebond and or epoxy and fiber glass cloth. During hard 3D it is known to give way, mine did thrice (In 'Addiction' twice and 'Addiction X' once)

2. Motor box needs to be sitting on the fuse without any gap with all CF rods touching the fuse and the box, dry fit and sand as necessary. (See image).
3. The design of the motor box and the firewal is unique, this long corbon rod actually transfers thrust to the fuse (Partly) instead of, to the firewall. A very novel concept.
4. Once the fit is ok, long pin is not protruding out of the cowling. apply epoxy to all the surfaces coming into contact with the bulkhead at the center top and reinstall the motor box back in place.
5. Epoxy to cover three CF pins them.

12. CA the center top of the motor box to hold the box in place while the epoxy dries.
13. Apply little bit epoxy along the point of contact between bulkhead and the motor box.

14. sand the motor box as shown for fitting the cowl. (I think PA Botched up the design here)

Motor, ESC Installation, Receiver and battery Placement
1. The motor is installed as shown.
2. For Thrust 40, remove the C clip off the motor shaft.
3. DO NOT over tighten the four motor mounting bolts, you may run a risk of crushing or cracking the motor mount plywood.
4. Apply Loctite.
5. attach air scoops as shown. (Another very Novel Concept).
6. I mounted ESC in a manner that batt is easy to attach and the residual air cools the heat sink.
8. Recheck direction of motor rotation, if wrong correct it by changing the esc's black red polarity.
9. Velcro RX on its tray.
13. To prevent the battery from sliding on the CF tray you can stick a small piece of anti slip matt used in cars.

 Cowling Attachment

1. Cowl is attached using four self-tapping screws 2.3x10mm with soldered washer with 3-4mm of overlap on the fuselage.
2. The bottom of the cowl may require two notches to clear the landing gear struts.
3. Use tape drill technique to achieve alignment of cowl and fuse
4. Mount the propeller and  spinner  cone as well. (My CF Cone will be mounted once i change over to 12x6 prop for a 4S Setup)

Gusty sir, the bird looks like a monster in your last image after fixing the cowl  ..

i am slightly worried about the tail wheel, because the epoxy you applied after fixing the tail wire has been applied over the covering. in my opinion, the covering adjacent to wires should also have been peeled off,before applying it again..

 Wing Attachment & Center of Gravity (CG)
1. If CF wing tube is a tight fit, don't fit it, instead sand it.
2. Follow this procedure 1.CF wing tube into one wing until hits the stop. 2. Then wing to the fuselage, align CF anti-rotation pins (do not attempt to force the pins in, sand it if required).
3. Grease the nylon wing bolt else it will break.
4. Install the other wing.
5. The CG range is 99-105mm, however Sweet spot (Sounds like 'G' Spot or something  ) is at 103mm for 3D and 99-100mm is for sports flying or flying in windy condition.
6. If 103mm is too neural try 101.5mm as it was a slightly easy to trim.

Tip: Great Planes CG gauge is what i use

 Radio & Control Setup
You should have centred your servo before fitting, if you didnt do it, do it now.
1. Check that the control surfaces are moving in the correct sense.
2. Servos travel adjusted binding should not happen.
3. Use deflection gauge (Supplied) to setup control surface. These throw settings are mine, use these as a starting point and adjust them to suit your personal flying preferences.
Ailerons High rate 50°Expo: 70% Mid Rate 30° Expo 35%Low Rate 12° Expo 30%.
Rudder High Rate Max Throw Expo: 70% Mid Rate 35° Expo 42%Low Rate 27° Expo: 35%
Elevator High Rate 50° Expo: 70% Mid Rate 30° Expo 35%Low rate 12° Expo: 30%
7.  2200 mah batt TX timer, set it to 5 minutes. expect 6-8 minutes of flight.

 CF Vortex Generators installation
The installation of the Vortex Generators (VGs) is very simple since the slots are pre cut. However, since the top side covering is solid it requires a certain technique
1. Place the wing up side down.
2. Cut pre marked slots.
3. Mark top side slot from the bottom up.
4. Flip solid covering facing up cut along the marked slot .

5. Glue tabs of all the VGs needs Roughen up.
6. Dry fit of the VGs, DO NOT force them, widen the slot instead (Very Slightly)
7. Once OK apply a layer of epoxy (DO NOT use CA) over the tabs and inside each slot. Cover entire base of the VGs with epoxy and once fitted in leave a bit of epoxy excess which will create a solid base and seal the gap with the wing skin. Ensure no gap at the base of the VGs

That concludes the Build Log

Quote from: abhay1290 on June 22, 2012, 01:14:26 PM
i am slightly worried about the tail wheel.

Thanks Abhay ! It is called Precision Work, just enough covering is gone, it is so precise that you can't even see it. That's why it is called Precision Aerobatics

That's one cool build log Gusty.  Very beautiful plane.

Nicely done and congrads.

Thanks Sandy ! Cool Aeroplane too

i didn't have a T-40 prop, one call to Santhosh and he sent me the last spare that he had !! Thanks Santa !!

great build log  ... next time try to get this for your linkages

Did you mean in your next trip, you will try to get this for me

Get your next PA plane,  will give you one , sure

here is the Maiden Video, it was drizzling, Need to practice mode, Hover Torque roll was ok, better video when Santhosh reaches here

superb flying , this time plane is clearly visible . watch from 0.07 to 0.14

that's a still picture santa this was at 04:40 in the morning

Gusty sir add scale spinner,this beauty looks more gorgeous!!!!!!!

Thanks Praveen i have the CF scale spinner (Came with the bling package), will add them after a couple of flights

PS
Review of CF isn't good though, can break in flight and cause damage/ cause hurt. Will still give it a shot

Precision Aerobatics team sent me a mail! urging me to edit this thread (I used to wonder, who are these so many guests reading our forum, that explains), since i used words from their manual,

so people who have read this thread earlier, you could read it again, it was a blessing in disguise. in an attempt to edit it i found, i simplified it further. now it is less intimidating and easily readable.

Which part they urging to remove or modify sir?

Done that praveen already ! so well done that you cant even see it

Good one Gusty...Miss u guys