hi ..
I am very much new to this hobby . I have a OS46( bought 2nd hand.)....this engine was not used 4 1 yr ...so i opened the whole engine and cleaned it ...Now i am facing problem with throttle control.....i am unable to understand the mechnism of the throttle .. i think i missed sm parts...plz help me ragarding this......will post sm pics tonight...

Just get the manual for the engine/carb, it lists the carb assembly in detail. 

For example, for the OS 46AX, see page 28 in the manual : http://manuals.hobbico.com/osm/46ax-manual.pdf

thank you anwar ji..

Anwar ji ..wat i learned from the pdf is that thr is sm problem with my carburator...i think the throttle cotroler is jam...
pls refer to pic tures attached..........
thr is no relative motion between part 3 and the carburator boby ie part no 4 ...how can i solve this problem.......how to make this carburator function .... how to make carburator rotor move ( as it is jam ...as if its a part of bady)....

Looks like you may have not positioned the barrel/rotor (part #3) correctly while fixing the "rotor guide screw" (part #5).  Most barrel type carbs have a slanting slit on the barrel, and the rotor guide screw has to go inside that slit.  If you tightened it on the barrel/rotor itself, then the barrel will not move.  The "guide screw" is supposed to move inside the slit, thus causing it to glide in and out of the carb housing as it turns (because the slit is slanted).

The video below shows this, even the carb is slightly different.

So Anwar suggest me how to get rotor out and make it free gain.. i have removed the guiding screw and soaked the whole carburetor in petrol for 16 hrs ..but still no movement ...suggest me somthing ..i cant purchse a new carburetor....is it safe to heat the body and take the rotor out(is thr any rubber part inside the carburetor......so help me....

There is a rubber O-ring on the high speed needles of some carbs. Since you seem to have pulled the needle out already, that should not be an issue. 

You can use a heat gun or soldering iron to apply localized heat to the carb area, that should free it up.  The other thing that can get damaged by direct application of high heat is the gasket that goes between the carb and the engine case.  BTW, remember that a running engine gets quite hot, so applying heat is not a problem.  If you have removed the carb and have the gasket exposed, do not go touch it with the soldering iron.

Other techniques involve putting it in the oven or even boiling it (minus the gasket/rubber parts).

Thanks 4 the valuble inputs Anwar,
Anwar the gasket is between the carb and engine.......but i have removed the carb away.. i need to know that is thr any rubber part between carb rotor and carb body.. which will get harmed due to gass torch heating.......
also tell me hw the rotor will come out ....it will cm by screw motion or jst sliding motion....
Thanks in advance...

All OS airplane engine carbs I have seen so far are rotary carbs (as opposed to slide carbs).  My exposure to a wide variety of carbs is limited, but I would expect this one to be a rotary carb too.

Other than the gasket and the O-ring on the needle, you don't have to worry about applying heat. BTW, try the soldering iron first.

Just soaking it in nitro fuel overnight should do it in many cases, I guess this is way too gummed up.

I am requesting others to confirm this.  I have not faced this situation before, but I have heated whole engines in the oven to remove bearings (but that was after removing the entire carb).

I forgot to mention WD40. Try that first on the metal parts, if you have it around.

All, OS 46 from SF till AX are rotary carb with fuel metering needle n(except the FP and LA which was air bleed type).
What engine do u have ? From the carb it looks like either an SF or FX
Once you have removed the rotor guide screw (it is at the top of the carb) Just boil the carb in plain water for few minutes and the rotor should come out if it is gummed up.
I assume you have taken out the throttle lever (plastic in case of FX) before boiling the carb and also that you have tried to move the carb barrel after removing the rotor guide screw

Yesterday I needed to work on a carb of an Enya 120 R four stroke and man these guys at Enya sure know something, to an ordinary eye the carb would look like an air bleed type, but on being opened up you see the desgin genuis of the engieer. Even the fuel inlet had me flumoxed as when I removed the needle assembly I could not find a corresponding inlet hole in the carb barell, till the time the entire assembly was opened up and lo and behold the entire mystery was solved

Hope the advices help you unlock/unblock your carb   

Thank you anwar and flyingbox........thanks 4 all help....actually thr was sm problem with my method...i was using petrol to unjam the rotor..but today sm 1 sugeested me to use kerosene or methanol...and guess wat....the thing which pertol cld not do in 2 days kerosene did in 3 min....finally problem is solved..otherwise i wld have melted my carb with gass torch.....thankgod...

Gas torch, or even the soldering iron etc though would do the job, but are not the best method, since these apply localised heat which can result in unequal expansion.
Better methods are heating in an oven or boiling in water so that the heat is applied more uniformly.
Anyway you problem is solved and u have learned a new thing, happy for you