Ha ha June 2011 to perhaps early 2016 is sure a long Marathon.
On the wing it took some time to understand and work out the procedures. The other three should be quicker.
Also checked the wing against the centre section seems all fine till now. No major cock ups and that is what is worrying me

Some more progress, started on the top right wing. Sized up the spars, measured four times, cut and drilled once  
All the ironmongery is trial fitted, these will be taken off for build and once the frame is dry on the building board, reattached with all the nuts tightened with thread lock. We do not want them to come loose once covered up

The two end fittings that can be seen with holes are the attachment points for the wing. The wing attaches to the cabane centre section with just 2 6 BA bolts
   
Tonight will be dedicated to pinning and gluing all the wooden parts together to make it look like a wing    

Coming up well capt., 

Thanks Girish.

Between yester-night and today morning the second wing is almost done except for some minor jobs left to complete the root/tips and give the structure a good sand down to ensure all is smooth and as desired.

1. The basic structure assembled, glued, pinned and left to dry overnight.

2. The epoxy glass drilling templates provided for the holes that go in on the two spars. These holes will take the bolts/threaded rod for the interplane struts and other metal fittings to which the flying wires and incidence wires would be attached. Makes the job of placing all holes easy. The spars will be fitted with suitable doublers to increase thickness and spruce pads over and under to bring the thickness to the level of ribs so that the metal fittings have enough hard surface to rest on and also ensure that when the nuts are tightened the structure takes the load . Will take another pic and show how it all goes together   

3.  The root trailing edge depicting splicing of spruce TE to ply TE. The ply piece will have the curved 1/4 balsa pieces glued over and under and these pieces would also overlap the splice joint to make it all nice and strong. The balsa pieces have been roughly planed before gluing. Final shaping once fixed and glue has dried

4. The riblets for top surface all ready for gluing. The riblets for under surface would be glued once the structure is lifted off the board.

5. Riblets all glued up and left to dry till tonight         

Posting pictures in batches as even four good quality pictures do not get uploaded and throw up an error message

And the last one for today.
One would notice the empty bay (for riblets) these are currently left out as the bay will be fitted with spruce spar doublers post which the riblets will go on in. On the previous wing, I need to cut these off as doublers are yet to be fitted. Did I not say I was worried that I did not screw up somewhere     

Sir,
This reminds me of when i went to Shuttleworth (20 yrs ago),
And the standard was so much above my head,
That the only guy i dared to speak to,
Was the one wearing a T shirt that said
"I love Mills .75"
Some day maybe i'll be there again,
And seeing a Tiger Moth, wonder,
Didn't i see this build on RCI?
You'll be there, i'm sure...
Regards.

If you want to watch DH Moths the place to be is the annual Moth rally in UK. Maybe some day I would

With few domestic chores and the incessant inclement weather work on the model has kind of slowed down. As indicated earlier it is always the smaller jobs on the build that take most time.
So both the upper wings almost done (except for final sanding), and checked for fit with the cabane attachment  these were set aside and work started on right lower wing.
Before starting the spars have to be prepared and it is classic case of measure twice and cut/drill once and then pray things have not gone wrong. What with the rake angle on the spar root and root rib (that would dictate the sweep and dihedral). The holes drilled need to be true so that all the ironmongery goes on without issues and when the time comes to attach the wings to the fuse no issues are encountered. A drill press and reliance on the supplied jigs and templates is a must.
Here are few shots of the right lower wing all framed up.      
1. The wing framed up and minus the aileron
2. Wing framed up with aileron lined up.
3. Supplied jigs for drilling holes for interplane struts and associated metal fittings. Note the gap between the wing trailing edge and the aileron  leading edge. Yes that is how it is, the gap would get covered with fabric covering    

Manish,

Wow, I had missed that you were so active again, I knew you had asked questions on my build log. I thought I had notifications set up from your build log but I did not so I was not aware how much more you have completed recently. Hats off to you.

Hello Peter, good to see you are checking the thread here. Loss of our regular flying field has been a blessing in disguise. The time has been utilized to make progress on the Moth. 

Here are some pictures of the wing root fittings for the lower wing halves. The one that projects out from the rear spar would be anchoring to the fuse, while the one projecting upwards from the front spar would anchor the flying wires that connect from here to the hard points under the upper wing

The basic structure of the both the lower wings is done, will post pictures of the other wing soon.
While working on the wings, always had this question at back of my mind if the wings would mate up effortlessly with the fuse fittings (both top and bottom)? While the top wings were checked and did align with a bit of fiddling around, decided to check the fit of lower wings today. There is a epoxy board /G10 piece of fitting that gets glued on top of the front spar, projects through the root rib and mates with similar fitting that is fixed to the fuse bottom rail.
The fuse rail fittings(both fore and aft) were glued in long back during the fuse build.
Once the rear metal fitting was attached to the rear spar on the lower wing, I offered the left wing to the fuse and matched the rear fittings with an 8 BA screw through the hole, only to notice that the front epoxy fittings do not line up. The piece that goes on to the wing even when canted is off centre from the fuse fitting hole. In the picture you can see a pin slid through the holes. Will have to think through a solution for this issue before I work further on the wings.
Meanwhile will start working on the interplane struts that need 4 BA studding epoxied in place, laminated with balsa piece and then the individual pieces shaped to required profile.       

From the above two pictures it is evident that even to align the two epoxy board fittings for the 1/16 pin the fitting on the wing has to be canted so much. This is when the rear fittings are aligned. I think I will fabricate a new fitting for the wing from the off-cuts of epoxy boards and re-drill the hole to match.
Here are two more pictures showing the rear attachment lined up with a 6 BA screw through and pin on the front fittings    

Hi are you sure you have the wing epoxy fittings the correct way round, as they are angled. Have a look at Peterf's post. Why are all your metal fittings a funny colour, just curious. What happened to your regular flying site. The build is moving along well keep it up.
Ron

Ron,
I have noticed that the epoxy fittings are angled. Which ever way I try they are a bit off. Not much, so I think I will fettle the slot in the rib a bit and it should fit. I will also pin the fittings with carbon pegs drilled through to the main spar just to ensure that there is no way the fitting can pull out.

Ahh! the metal fittings being funny colour..That's because of Iron Oxide or in plain language 'Rust'. Fruits of being hot and humid climate with the metal fittings sitting in the box doing nothing. All of these will get polished with fine emery paper before paint. See the picture below. The ones polished, are they right colour?

We used to fly from an old WWII airfield that is still owned by the Air Force and though not fit for full scale aviation it is used for training drivers. We had permission to use the airfield but then some one in charge decided not to let us for reasons best known to them.

Huh I did not want mention the rust word, I wonder which is worse, cold and wet or hot and humid. With the dihedral I used a long piece of u shaped metal used for wall brackets placed under the fus with a bit of packing then measured the wing tips off that, you do not need to worry about the top wings as they will be sorted by the inter plane struts you need to get this right to get the angles of the studs in the ends of the struts. I epoxied them in situ with a bit of polythene between strut and wing.

In order to accelerate a chemical reaction (read rust formation here) you always add heat. So hot and humid is always worse than cold and wet/damp. In fact the colder it is the less humid it would be. So you are better placed in this respect.

Thanks for the tips on the struts and the 4 BA studding. I was planning to epoxy the studding on to the struts over the plans, but will now do that in situ.     

One of the major factors in accelerated rusting is partial exclusion of Oxygen. These fittings were probably in a box.

Hi Manish I've just remembered how I measured the dihedral and it was basically how Steve said in his instructions. I used a 24inch folding steel rule and set it to 4.5 degrees put it under the fus and then lined up with the leading edge, simple. Apologies for my previous explanation, that was how I've done other planes.

Thank you Ron. I would have asked you the the measurements. Need to go refer those instructions again. I will probably use the inclinometer app on phone to set the angle.

Now this has nothing to do with the build progressing. But has everything to do with how to make use of what you have 
With all the CNC cut ribs and riblets out from the balsa sheets I had a pile of nice quality 1/8 balsa sheet lying in the scrap bin. With some head scratching going on with the wing fixing, and just to keep my hands and mind occupied, I fished out my MA Balsa stripper, and cut out about 80 odd 24" long 1/8 square sticks from the scrap.
Will serve me well in some stick and tissue type constructions 
   

Not much achieved in terms of show and tell this weekend, but what was completed is very crucial and important step. The lower wing alignment means that three components need to align perfectly, the front epoxy fittings that has a tapped fitting on the fuse side, the rear metal and epoxy fitting and thirdly the piano wire dowel that is fixed to the wing main spar and slides in to corresponding hole just under the front epoxy fitting on the fuselage. And all this while the wing has a dihedral of precise 4.5 degrees.
Get this step right on each side and the upper wings by virtue of the interplane struts would come out correct (at least that is how it is supposed to be  )
So using the clinometer app on phone all the wing fittings were aligned with dihedral at 4.5 degree. Made a simple jig to support the wing while doing this operation. The jig would also come in handy while assembling the  wings on the field.     

The jig is a simple affair with the top matching the underside of the wing ribs and legs that are fixed with plastic bolts and wing nuts. This arrangement helps in easy adjustment of the height of the jig to get the required dihedral angle. Will post a pic of the jig soon.
The jig can be partially seen in one of the pictures (the leg with clips). This was when the jig was yet to be fully assembled and all glue joints yet to dry     

OMG I suddenly have come across these small figures of zero. Literally hundereds of them. And they are supposed to go on to the Tiger Moth.
Please identify the purpose. If you do, you get one zero posted to you free of cost if you pay the postage