Before putting on the metal bits to the wings I had cleaned them off. And these were degreased and given a coat of silver acrylic spray.
For the fittings that are already on the woodwork and difficult or can not be taken down, the plan is to clean them as best as possible and brush a coat of lacquer or epoxy to prevent further oxidation.
Here are a few pictures of the metal parts post the silver paint treatment. At the third picture if you are wondering what is the debri sticking on to the metal plate, that is a layer of tape that was applied on to the metal before the strut end 4 BA studdings were glued in situ. This was done to prevent the metal part being glued on to the strut
And the last picture shows the aileron mechanism mounted on the wing (notice the cables coiled up). The picture also shows the inter-plane struts fixing

Like in detail work👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻

Have been gradually chipping at the Tiggy
For the top wings completed and trail fitted the leading edge slats
Here is a picture of the full scale and the model one.
On the model the slats are moulded from 1/32 ply that was immersed in very hot water and then formed on the wing, allowed to dry for couple of days and then a layer of glass cloth and epoxy added, post which filler was applied and all sanded smooth.
The pic of the full scale slat is in extended/open position, on the model I am making them non functional     

In the full scale picture under the wing surface the cover for slat mechanism can also be seen. (And please ignore the ASI under that wing  )
So I needed to make the covers for the model. Hence I moulded these out of styrene. Here are two pictures, one of the moulded part on top of the slat and other under the wing, these now need to be trimmed to make the mounting flanges and trial fit them on underside of the wings

After working with all the wood and plastic I fancied some metal bashing so decided to make the Air Speed Indicator that is fitted on the left hand main strut. It is a pretty simple device on the full scale and was easy to make out of some tin sheet and piano wire.
Here is a picture of the full scale equipment

And here are a few pictures of the one for model in exact 1/4 scale of the original (rounded off to lower or higher 0.5mm as appropriate). All that needs done is assemble the parts, paint and paste the scale (that I still need to decide how to do it)

Over last couple of days found out how not to activate the aileron in a scale fashion.
Here is a video of the setup where the crank and idler does not return to neutral. Rest assured this has now been fixed (did require ripping the belly sheet and butchering the control tunnel)

Also attached is a picture of full scale to indicate how it was on the full scale

Coming along nicely, Manish! With regard to the servo non-centering, I wonder if your cables are too tight The airspeed indicator is just the ticket

Good to see that you are there to watch Don .
I tried tightening and loosening the cables with not much of an improvement, so ultimately scrapped the system, took a scalpel and saw and butchered the control tunnel to install a bigger servo. In the above setup I was using a thin wing servo driving a crank. The current servo has G10 sheet crank bolted to the servo arm and sticks below the fuse  to work as the live arm. The idler remains same and this setup has worked satisfactorily.  I think the earlier setup had some play where the side way slop on the crank was making it to pull to a side and not return to neutral unless it was pulled from other side. Now all I need to do is do some patch work on the control tunnel, paint it back and hide it all under the pilots trousers.
With respect to the the ASI need to print the scale (still do not know how) and if I had a way to calibrate the spring   

Deleted being duplicate post

Another item is out of way, completed and test fitted the long acorns or the wire spreaders. These are made from Ali tube and hard wood dowel, the center dowel piece is slit from both ends to take the crossing flying and landing wires while the outer pieces take the outer wires. The tube and dowels are drilled for 10 BA bolts that pass through and retain the whole assembly together. In the picture you can see one assembled and one opened up to give an idea of construction 
Also attached is picture of full size showing the long acorns installed

Is this of any use? (It's from the "Haynes Owners Workshop manual for the DH82A 1931-1945 all marks" -  the one you previously posted).

Thanks Don, it's not the picture but my limited capabilities that is limiting me in reproducing the scale in the required size, will have to find some one to do the photo work and then can print on water transfer decal sheet.
I have the drawings for DH 60 and scaled mine from the same, so scale could also be used (guess except for calibration there would not be much difference and it would look like DH 82)

Let me know the length of the left hand side and I'll see what I have in my collection of photographs.

The model had the wings on for almost two weeks and keeping every thing assembled had seriously reduced space in the hobby area. But that was needed as I needed to work on certain areas that required the wings to be on. Any way all that out of way, the flying, landing and incidence wires wire appropriately tagged and labelled, and removed. Similarly the wings were removed and all hardware dismounted the under-cambered portion of the wing was given a coat of Sig Stix it to promote better adhesion (because of under camber the covering will pull away when tautened by shrinking) and then today morning.....

Started covering on the wings

Here are a few pictures of the fuse with wings on and lower wing being covered
 

And this one from the bottom
Post covering, need to work on stitching and tapes etc, seriously contemplating doing actual stitching but that would add some serious labour. and then after all that is done bolt all the hardware back on 

Will check on the size and let you know Don

The right lower wing is covered, rib stitches and rib tapes applied, and halfway through with perimeter tapes. Just need to glue in the hinges and then cover the huge hinge gap with cloth before the perimeter tapes for TE of wing and LE of ailerons are applied.
Thereafter it is on to application of all the inspection rings and patches and fitting the metal pieces and horns etc back
In the picture you can see that the inspection hatch for aileron cables has been opened up, this will be covered by a metal/ply sheet and fixed with small screws for easy access should the need arise (like the full scale). One may also notice the turnbuckles have been locked with wire (again as in full scale practice)
Pics
1. Top surface
2. Bottom surface
3. Close up of aileron access hatch

Some more progress on the right hand wing set, both are covered, stitches applied, tapes applied, perimeter tapes applied, aileron hinges epoxied in, hinge gap covered with cloth, inspection rings and patches being applied on and then it would be time to reinstall the metal pieces and set this pair aside
The picture below is from few days back, will post more in couple of days showing current state  

And if any one is wondering why the few ribs towards the root on lower wings are left bare without stitches, it is because that area will get covered with the wing walkway, that's another job to be completed when both wings are ready    

One pair (right) of wings  finally completed and the metal fittings have gone back on. Time to start the other pair, hmm mark every bit, dismantle, cover, stitch, tapes, patches, reinstall the fittings all this once again  
1. Showing top of top and bottom planes
2. Showing top of top plane and bottom of bottom plane
3. With the tail feathers
4. Just the rudder

Almost done with covering the wings. That is all four of them.
The tail feathers and wings together consumed good portion of 10m roll of silver Solartex.
Along with about 120 feet of pinked tapes, roughly 40 feet of perimeter tapes, 74 inspection rings and patches,  and 2900 simulated stitches on the flying surfaces  .

Well I said "Almost"  
And what do we have? More work on recovering. So here is the story

1. While covering the second set it was noticed that the closed loop wire that actuates the aileron mechanism in a scale manner was almost frayed. And I thought, great that I spotted before covering.
2. On closer inspection it was ascertained that the wire that was silver soldered on to a washer had corroded and frayed. The reason most probably was two fold. One was acidic flux not removed completely from soldered item. This acidic remnant along with high humidity accelerated  corrosion. Second the solder itself wicks into the wire, making it rigid and brittle. Now the wire has to sort of curve around the pulley and straighten every time it is operated. So this brittle part can only sustain a finite curving and straightening before it finally gives up.
3. The bottom line, soldered system was replaced with the wire just clamped under a washer ( a fair tight tug and pull test conducted to ascertain that wire will not slip) and when satisfied, the structure was covered up, and all other embellishments applied. Hinges were epoxied in and the wing set aside.
3. The episode with this uncovered wing led me to ponder if there was any corrosion in the wires for the wing that was already covered and may be I failed to notice. So an inspection (pretty difficult) was conducted to realize that wire in this one too was affected. Though not to the degree of the other one. (see pictures 1 and 2)
4. I had now two options, either cut open a single rib bay covering and replace the wire, or remove the entire covering. While the latter meant more work and material wastage the earlier one may leave tell tale marks. So it was decided that I will open the single bay and affect a repair, which if too incongruous will mean that I will pull the entire covering off and redo it.
5. Long story short. The bay was cut open, wire replaced, and the bay recovered. Except for two areas on the perimeter tapes there are no detectable signs of repair and I hope to able to cover these with paint build up.
6. Now comes the fun part. When the wing that had wires replaced prior to covering was checked for aileron operation it was noticed that the mechanism had severe binding at a particular spot that required fair amount of tug to move past. This was not the case before the wing was set aside as complete. An inspection did not reveal anything outwardly, so finally decided that I needed to cut open the covering over the concerned rib bay to investigate. (refer third picture)
7. Once the covering was cut open and the mechanism withdrawn, it was ascertained that a tiny drop of epoxy from the hinge had trickled and dropped down in between the mounting plate (made of G10) and the pulley which has a clearance of  about 0.5mm and leading to binding. If you see the fourth picture you can see the LED shaped dried drop of epoxy at the end of hinge stub from where the drop went into the aileron pulley.
 

8. Finally all was set right, not without major effort involved in opening all the screws that were thread locked and the area recovered (refer the last picture).
Think that now I can say the wings are complete (touch wood)    

Some more progress towards completion
The control tunnel is now closed and painted over with installation of aileron servo in the tunnel driving a crank to operate the aileron wires and idler
Made up plenty of thimbles from cut down brass tube and completed the elevator and rudder control cable runs
Here are some pictures   
1. Rudder horn with the brass sheet clevises
2. Close up of control cables attached to the clevises with proper thimbles and crimped. The tail of the cable is wound with cotton thread and glue for added security and prevent the cable strands from fraying 
3. Shot of elevator horn with clevis and cables attached
4. Shot of the slider rod where the cable passes over the leading edge of tail plane

Pictures continued
1. Another shot of the elevator horn with cable attached
2. Close up of the slider rod connection towards the trailing edge where a shackle is used to connect the cable. You can see the shackle and thimble up close here
3. The slider assembly as it passes through the eyebolt situated on the leading edge of the tailplane