Inspired by the Tiger build by Mjet, decided to build one for a 60 size engine.Plan shared by Mjet was printed at 400% magnification to yield full size printout. This build will be a slow one.

Query: The total wingspan is 70 inches but the left wing is slightly bigger (90 cm) as compared to left wing (88.5cm). Mjet feels that there is an error in the drawing. Is it an error or deliberate to compensate for the engine rotation? Expert comment please.

This one (Phoenix)?
http://phoenixmodel.com/Product.aspx?ProductId=19

No. It is a Carl Goldberg design. Mjet has posted a build log on the forum. He had built it for a 46 siz engine. Mine is just bigger for a 60 size.

Seen asymmetric wings only on C/L like Bluepants (remember?)
Except maybe one Blohm & Voss - truly asymetric!
http://www.militaryfactory.com/imageviewer/ac/pic-detail.asp?aircraft_id=781&sCurrentPic=pic1

We have built two tiger and they flew well, very stable and you will love to Fly this model.if you see the wing at centre ,  misaligned centre is easily visible.

Control line planes generally have a larger left wing (with extra lift) to compensate for the weight of the control line. But why for a rc plane?

Can't believe it's intentional.

@ashok baijal
http://www.mikrovisions.com/plans/T60.pdf

Yes. Same plan but when printed out, the difference can be seen. Better to follow plan for the left wing and repeat the dimensions for the other so that they are symetrical

Yes you can go ahead with symetrical wings and belive me, that you will love to fly this model.

What about the formers which are missing in the plan??

I had taken the measurement and cutted from ply.

@Mjet.
The fuselage is box shaped, so formers will be rectangular. I will measure the width and height from the top and side views. Is there an alternate method?

The plane is pretty huge - The plan literally overflows the dining table.

To begin with, I traced the wing rib on a piece of paper and then after being satisfied with its size relative to the plan, I traced 16 ribs on 2.5 mm balsa sheets. 3 sheets used.

Next step was to roughly cut the ribs. After drilling two guide holes on each rib, they were held together using two bolts. A bit of sanding and all ribs were sanded to the same size. Next step was to cut the slots for the wing spars. This was done while keeping the ribs bunched together so that all the slots stay aligned.

Subscribed 

Wow,
eagerly waiting for big plane

Ashok: Method is correct for formers.

As I received replies from experts of Tiger , wings is symmetrical and have same span. Its only a scaner issue.

Subscribed! Seems interesting. Best of Luck sir 

I am documenting the build in detail. Maybe boring for experienced builders but could be helpful to new builders making balsa planes.

Take a soft board which is mounted on a hard surface. Mount the plan and cover it with butter paper (Waxed paper) or polythene sheet. Attach the lower spar using pins affixed in a cross pattern on the plan. This will serve as an index for the ribs. Since this is a symmetrical wing, the ribs are not flat on the underside. To avoid any warp in the wing, slide a strip of balsa on the aft side of the wing to serve as a support for the ribs. This will ensure that all ribs are level.

Next step is to align the ribs to the plan. Pin the ribs and ensure that they are vertical. I use a small right angle block to support the rib while I pin it up to the board. Method of pinning is visible in the attached image. Next step is to slide in the top spar. Put some cynoacrilate glue on the joints. Commonly available cyno is of the thin variety. While cutting the joints it should be ensured that the gaps are minimal. If some gap is there fill it was balsa sawdust before putting in the cyno. Dust off excess sawdust before putting in the cyno.

Next step is the glue in the leading edge. Since slots are pre-cut in ribs for the leading edge, the leading edge should align easily. Start by gluing in from the centre rib and glue outwards. This would be followed by gluing the trailing edge. Tack glue the centre rib first followed by tacking the outer two ribs. Thereafter glue each rib.

Once dried, take off the wing from the board and inspect each joint. Add cyno wherever necessary.

Next step is to build the shear webbing. The grain direction of the shear web should be vertical. Affix balsa sheeting as shown. I prefer to fix the web first and cut it after it dries off, rather than cutting it first and affixing it thereafter. Both methods work. Soon you will have all the shear webs in place.

Though not required, I am attaching the shear webs on the inner side also as I have used balsa for the main spar and not a hardwood like spruce.

What is the material of spar? Wood or Balsa and how you have prepared, pl post in detail.

@Mjet
Spar is 10mm balsa square - top and bottom. Will be reinforced by a carbon strip to be affixed before the sheeting of the leading edge.

Affixed carbon strips on the top and bottom spar. Attached sheeting to the trailing and leading edge.