Its a new Belt CP 6 channel Heli and yet to fly. It's not taking off, today at field, I tried hard (with full battery Charge) but it didnt even took off.

The problem was motor was cutting off when giving full throttle. Even at lower throttle if kept running at constant speed it cut off in few seconds.

is it strange or because its fresh it need few charging cycles (LiPo) to release full current?

Can anyone Advice on this.

Who set this up, or did it come RTF ?  Since it is collective pitch, we have to see if the pitch curve is active and whether the swash plate is moving along with increased throttle.

Have you verified the output voltage of the battery ?

Its an RTF, so i hope pitch is set.

and I didnt checkd the voltage either, will that help?

Fresh or not, lipos should give out the right voltage.  Please post further diagnosis, like how many cells in your battery, how do you charge it, how do you know it is fully charged and have you verified the same etc.

Also, do you see the swash plate moving when you increase throttle ?

its a 3 cell, 1800mh 11.1 volt.

Charged it till the green light on the charger goes solid.

it took around about more than 3 hours.

swash is moving up when I am increasing the throttle.

how much possibility is that LiPo is the culprit?

It would be good to verify if the lipo output voltage is around 12.6 volts fully charged.

I hope you have followed the manual correctly about flight setup.  For example, there are steps like keep the throttle stick and throttle trim to the lowest position.  Make sure the pitch trim knob (the one on the top left side of the TX) is kept at the middle. 

Please confirm the above (battery volts, if you have a multimeter), and the proper procedure to start... and let us see where that takes us

Well I followed the manual instructions as mentioned.

I dont have a multimeter as this is my first electric. so probably will buy one soon. I hope only after that I'll be able to give some authentic information about battery volts.

Is it a common problem with electrics or some unlucky like me  face it!!

Most importantly, you should never really have to go all the way up to full throttle.  If you do not have lift off even at 75% throttle, something is wrong and needs to be fixed !

Quote from: asinghatiya on November 14, 2010, 07:53:36 PM
Well I followed the manual instructions as mentioned.

Here is where attention to detail is important, and we have seen beginners "take things easy" when it comes to such things For example, at what position is your pitch trim knob now ?

Please ensure that the main blades are revolving the RIGHT WAY. Which heli is it exactly ?

Regards

Please see the current settings on the Tx

OK, that looks good, just keep the throttle trim at the bottom (lowest position) too before you plug in the battery.

I hope you have already checked the direction of rotation of the main blades (clockwise when you look down at the heli from above), as suggested by Bill.  They should be pushing air downwards (at least at mid throttle or above).

exactly, they are rotating in right direction i.e clock wise. Ya when I plug the battery i keep the throttle trim at the minimum. when i plug in there is sound which confirm that its now ready.

When I start pusing the throttle, rotating blades start rotating but... if i didnt increase the throttle in few seconds they stops as if the power to them is cut, if i increase the throttle again higher... they rotate with a increased speed but the cutoff problem persists as they again go silent in few seconds.

  y this is with me.  ... first customs.. now this problem. I think its zinxed....

Hmmm..  if it is stopping after running for a few seconds even at low throttle, then either the battery is too weak (not charged properly), or there is some kind of overload in the power system causing the ESC to cut the motor off.  Is the motor/ESC getting too hot ?

not really, none of them is getting really hot. I think there is some problem with charging. Does ESC have low volt auto cut function ?

Pretty much all the current ESCs have low voltage cut off, and some have temperature based cut off too.

I have 2 Belt CP's and the default ESC which comes with Belt CP is Crap so need to change that in the first place. Now till the time to you get new 40A ESC try the following

- Check the Battery - you mentioned that it is charging till the green light is solid which means it's fully charged. But to be sure I would recommend checking the voltage with a multi meter on fully charged battery and you should get a reading of around 12.59 to 12.60.

- ESC - Setup - some times you need to initialize the ESC and adjust the throttle range to do this, keep the Throttle at max and plug in the battery, you will hear one beep at this very moment bring down the throttle to min and you should hear 2 beeps confiriming the throttle range and after this you should get your normal ready beeps. But to be sure just plug out the battery and then replug this time with the throttle at min position.

- Blades - Make sure that the blades are installed correctly that is the blade stickers should be visible on the top.

- Now - I hope this is not the case but - Here goes it can be that your motor is worn out (Bad motor winding).If this is the case you need need to replace the motor. Motor problem symptoms - The motor runs very slowly on the wrong side when you give some throttle but as you give some more immidiate throttle it runs in the correct direction making the blades spin.

It would be Best if you can post some pics or a small video of the heli showing us the swash movement and motor situation. Btw swash should go up when throttle goes up and vice a versa, you need to play with the servo reversing switches on your tx if thats not the case.

I hope this helps

Hellyflyer

THANK YOU SO MUCH FOR VALUABLE SUGGESTIONS. WILL GET back to you with my observations and possibly the video. Meanwhile can you suggest option for ESC available locally for it.

Its surprising that a RTF , never flown heli may have such problems. They should not call it as RTF then.

I tried for throttle range but when throttle stick at max... and i  plug the battery no beep. ready beep come only when its at zero position.

Motor is ok and no symptoms as you suggested.

It may also be due to wrong settings of the ESC for battery type(i.e yours is 3s (9v cutoff) & it could be set for 4s where the cutoff is at 12V).See what brand & type is your esc & search online for the manual of the ESC. Post it here also so that somebody may be familiar with that one.

Check the angle of the blade it should be facing upwards at lower throttle. For extreme 3d(inverted flight) they place lower throttle as downangle where middle in horizontal and above middle is upper angle this is where the heli takes off.

Quote from: asinghatiya on November 15, 2010, 05:57:50 AM
THANK YOU SO MUCH FOR VALUABLE SUGGESTIONS. WILL GET back to you with my observations and possibly the video. Meanwhile can you suggest option for ESC available locally for it.

Check rcindia.org  if someone is selling a 40amp ESC (esnure that the esc as atleast 3amp BEC in it), Post your requirement in the wanted section of this site, I am not sure if you can get it locally otherwise if no other option then buy it from Hobbyking.com or Rctimer.com

Now as you mentioned that the ESC is not going in the setup mode (no beeps when you are in max throttle) this clearly shows a faulty ESC and if this is a stock Esky ESC then it's not card programable.

So don't mess around anymore with electronics as you might end up burining your motor. Arrange for a ESC and then try remainng experiments.

Hellyflyer

First Of all, Dont worry, there is nothing that cannot be fixed, and in your case your heli is new, so the chances of a major issues are minimum, assuming that there are no manufacturing defects.

Please check the battery voltage as soon as the ESC cuts off, I suspect that the battery is not being charged properly. Could be an issue with the charger itlef. Does the Green Light on the charger go solid & how long does it take to come to that state from the time you put the battery on charge??

Share this info and I may be able to help you solve this mystery !!
Amit

Dear asinghatiya,

The problem is with the cell rather than Electronics in my opinion.

However as said by Anwar sir, please check full voltage with a multimeter. A cheap multimeter costs here at Kolkata 90:Rs:. So, don't afraid, purchase your own.

With the throttle, if the battery pack has not sufficient voltage, it starts up and then the source drop makes terminal voltage down and therefore electronics under-voltage safety activates and everything got stops. Just make throttle after 10 seconds after putting throttle 0% after auto shut off, it should start again and again goes off.

So, Please check the battery voltage and if required, charge with a separate charger. You may charge each cell individually upto 4.1 volt.

I had same experience with my RTF helly HAWK4.
from the date of purchase, it wont start. I just charged externally and later checked that it flew well. Then I got after the charger. Checked that the charging Cord is insufficient and shows high resistance. Moreover, in Battery pack there was unbalancing (Cheap battery pack used and therefore different charge pattern.

Just take out the cell and charge individually upto full voltage. After the charge of 5th Cell out of 6 cell NiMH, found the culprit. Now, just give shock therapy to the culprit cell and survived that one. Now make full charge of each cell. 

After fixing to helly, flown with awesome speed and that is my first RC Heli experience. Still now, after 5 years, It's still intact and the cell capacity was not reduced very much.

Thanks, Hope your problem will be solved soon.

I think the cell is a problem. The total output voltage is 8.3 which should be more than 11 I guess. How to find which cell is a problem and after finding it out how to sort that? Or I should buy a new LIPO?? what a mess is this yaar, a fresh LiPo is faulty how to trust another new one??

In the Lipo picture I can see 4 chrging wires. but there is a terminal where there is no wire.. is it ok ?

Surely low terminal voltage.
As seen from the top PCB layout, it should contain 3 cell and placed side by side with spacers (Insulation too). See my picture. (Spacers are not shown but without which, any cell may short-circuited)

Here i found 3 cell container placed side by side. therefore, each cell potential can be checked by using multimeter with
=========================||
Cell1 - Red & Blue,                    ||
Cell2 - Blue and yellow               ||=============> Each cell voltage should be 4 volt.
Cell3 - Yellow and black.             ||
=========================||
If you see that any cell potential is totally zero, that may be a due to short-circuit.
I found strange in the packing and as not seen fron side, it is impossible to check the type of spacer/insulation between cell body. Please check the cell body to body potential too and what zero, if any, make space and just charge the faulty cell with separate charger.

The final discharge and output voltage must be above 12 volt (12.6 actually)at full charge.

Please post more picture from side and the data of cell voltage.
If require, you can de-solder each cell from PCB and charge the faulty cell after checking.

Thanks

This is really a learning exp, I checked there is no voltage between red and blue.

how to charge this cell?? or this cell is now gone. Also do I now need to buy a new battery altogather or this could be repaired? and who can replair this ?

visibally there is no short circuit.. and the cells are arranged as shown in your picture. ....but how to find short circuit if any?