Quote from: rajathv8 on December 29, 2012, 07:23:42 PM
I requested info from RCB Team about the above. Summary of their response is as follows:
1. The plastic head at 2500-2700 Headspeed is good for hovering, orientation practice, circuits etc. with inverted flight. It is NOT suitable for 3D - fits my needs perfectly.
2. 20C lipo should be enough to learn. 30C MAY not fit easily in the canopy (fit has not been tested)
3. Wooden blades should be enough for hovering and orientations.

Hi Rajath.. firstly good meeting you during my visit to the store last week... regarding your queries
1. the plastic head is more than enough for your skills which are hovering, nose ins, also circuit flying
2. use 20c lipos for now is more than anough
3. yes wooden blades are good for hovering and orientations and i have also done inverted flights in these...
fyi, the Hiller Beginner at rs 1300 as the name states is for beginners only and not to be taken as a 3D machine... the tracking "mostly" will be due to the slop in the linkages and washout arms,, if you are able to remove this then 90% of your tracking issues will be resolved... and finally the head does not come with thrust bearings so do not overkill this machine and yes this to learn your hovers and orientations without crashing which otherwise you would be doing the same crashes with an expensive heli..

sujju

The Trex 450 SE V2 and V1 manual suggests using threadlock on all screws entering metal parts.
However on the RCB beginner kit several of the metal-metal SE V2/V1 screws are metal-plastic self tapping screws - should all these be CA'd. And is CA application similar to threadlock in terms of quantity and thread count on which it is applied?

I have dismantled the frame and sanded the rough edges with 80 grit sandpaper followed by 400 emery paper.

yes rajath... use quickfix etc is fine but very sparingly... and on the head if the feathering shaft is already tight do not try to remove it by force as the screw might strip ending you up with a useless head... if its not broken don't fix it :-)

sujju

I am have disassembled the frame and am having problems putting it back together

I am not able to identify which screw goes where. I have referred to Align 450 SE V2 manual, the manual used 2 screw sizes while i have 5 different screw sizes.

pls refer to the Align sport V3 manual as the tail block of the hiller beginner is made as per the align v3 unit

sujju

    I had the same problem rajath! just a couple of days ago.As told by Sujju sir align sport v3 manual should help . when you are assembling the inner frame, don't put in all screws. Some screws actually are part of the outer frame and they fit in to some slots on the inner frame. 450 beginner thread by Ebin is also helpful.
   
   I have assembled the frame, did not dare to dismantle the main rotor assembly and fly bar assembly !

   The rotor grips on the preassembled main rotor do not move freely, i tried loosening the screws on both sides, but it did not help. What should i do, I could not find anything about this in the manual.
   
Regards,
Sridhar.

Quote from: docsree on January 02, 2013, 07:48:12 PM
   The rotor grips on the preassembled main rotor do not move freely, i tried loosening the screws on both sides, but it did not help. What should i do, I could not find anything about this in the manual.

Not sure what you meant by "tried loosening the screws".
Since the blades grips are not smooth, you need to disassemble the rotor head and check the bearings (and thrust bearings - if they have)
Also, make sure spacers are there in the right places

@docsree :
Thanks for the info. I have not applied CA on certain screws - incase i need to loosen them while installing electronics/ tail boom.
Sujju has suggested above not to use force while loosening the feathering shaft as the screws may become loose.

@eaja_mastana:
He has also mentioned that this kit does not have thrust bearings.

It seems like there is no "ready" information available to build this heli. Its a fantastic opportunity to learn and explore!

I will try my best at documenting my build steps with detail.

do not over tighten screws   .....as soon as u feel there is resistance while turning in the end just with ur fingers tighten lightly just turn the hex diver a few mm thats it just say  'in thread lock we trust '  let it cure for sometime ur done

Step 1:
I disassembled the frame.
Once done i had the below items as shown in image 21:

Top row left to right
1. ESC/Gyro tray (i guess)
2. Bearing blocks with bearings in them
3. Motor mount
4. Bunch of screws, washers, spacers etc.
  Contents of this bag can be seen in image 22 and 24.
 The naming convention is as below:
  1. T - Self Tapping
  2. M - Machined
  3. Number after T, M - Smaller the number longer the screw
  4. Number in bracket - Number of copies in the frame alone
5. Tail boom block

Middle row:
1. Lower frame plates

Bottom row:
1. Upper frame plates


Step 2:
I sanded the outer edges of the upper and lower frame plates with 80 grit sand paper followed by 400 grit emery paper to form a smooth rounded edge.

PS : I will be using the screw notation posted here in the following posts as well.

Note: There is something unusual about the frame mounting bolts in image 22. Lets see if anyone can spot it

Step 3:
I screwed the frame lower plates to the plastic base, making sure that the landing skid screw holes on the base plate are facing down and U-shaped cut on the base plate is as sees in the image. These screws were taken from the bag containing the anti rotation bracket.

Items used:
1. ScrewT3(4)
2. Specialty Washers(4)

The landing skid screw protrusion on one side of the base plate would not align with the grove on the lower frame plate (next to the RHS screw in image 23). I sanded the grove on the plate to fix it.

I apply a small amount of CA on the last two threads of the screw and dab it on a tissue before screwing it into place.

I did not put in the LHS extreme screw yet - this screw is shared with the tail boom support and will be put in later.

Step 3:
Fix the gyro/ESC/receiver tray with the smooth, flat side facing up.
Items used:
1. ScrewT4(2)

Note - No specialty washers used

Step 4:
Fix the motor mount. The fit is lose since two screws up front need to go through the upper frame as well - may need to adjust the position later.
Items used:
1. ScrewT2(2)
2. Specialty washers(2)

Note - I have not used CA on these screws yet.

@ raja_mastana : I meant the screws which bind the rotor grips to the feathering shaft. Yes its a nice idea to disassemble the rotor head and reassemble it. I will try to do it. Thanks.

Step  5:
Screw the canopy holder onto the frame.
Items used:
1. ScrewT4 (2) from the bag containing the canopy holder

Note: No specialty washers necessary as seen in image 26

Step 6:
Screw the bearing blocks onto one of the upper frame plates. Then screw the other plate on.
Items used:
1. ScrewT3 (8 )
2. Specialty Washers (8 )

Its a good idea to place the specialty washer on the screw and then apply CA to the last few threads. If done the other way around, CA can get rubbed onto the washer while putting it onto the screw.

Image 30 shows frame after above two steps.

Step 7:
Screw the battery holder on with the flat surface facing up.
Items used:
1. ScrewT2(4) from the bag containing the battery holder

Note: No specialty washers necessary

Image 31 shows frame after above three steps.

Update:
I have improved significantly on the sim. I can hover the heli tail in.
I have procured the following:
1. Ball link pliers
2. 9g servos from RCB for cyclic

Step 8:
Fix the upper frame bolt - image 32
Items used:
1. ScrewM2(2)
2. Specialty Washers(2)
I have not used loctit on these screws yet as i may need to remove them during servo installation.

Step 9:
Fix the anti rotation bracket - image 32
Items used:
1. ScrewT4(2) found in bag containing the bracket
2. Specialty Washers(2)

Step 10:
Fix the two halves of the frame together in the following order:
a. Fix the front screws through the frame bolts - image 33
Items used:
1. Spacers (2)
2. ScrewM1(2) - use thread lock
3. Specialty Washers(2)

b. Fix the trailing edge screw - image 34
Items used :
1. Spacers (2)
2. ScrewT1(2)
3. Specialty Washers(2)
i have also fixed one screw (ScrewT2) on the tail boom holder as seen in the image. I have not used CA on these screws yet - i may need to remove them while fixing the tail boom.

c. Fix the motor mount leading end screw - image 35
Items used:
1. Specialty washers (2)
2. Spacers(2)
3. ScrewM1(2)

With that the frame is done
For the remaining build i plan on being careful with understanding which screw goes where. I will not be posting them here in detail

Quote from: RcBazaar on December 30, 2012, 10:22:29 PM
yes rajath... use quickfix etc is fine but very sparingly... and on the head if the feathering shaft is already tight do not try to remove it by force as the screw might strip ending you up with a useless head... if its not broken don't fix it :-)

sujju

The feathering shaft screws are pretty tight.
The blade grips do not rotate smoothly. I feel resistance. Is this ok?
I have tried removing the feathering shaft to no avail. If i force the screws loose i feel the head will get stripped.
Please advise

Is it notchy? Do the blade grips rotate one step at a time instead of a smooth movement? Then it is probably bad bearings

It is preferred to be smooth - however, it will still work if resistance is not much

Its not notchy. The grip moves smoothly but there is enough resistance to make me uncomfortable. Im not sure how to gauge how much resistance is ok.

does it feel notchy is grease properly applied ...while moving the blade grips does it move freely slight resistance is ok it will free up on frst spool but if u have to apply too much force i guees u gt the screws out ....ok do this with your finger just flick the blade grip like shooting the striker when play carrom if it rotates a great distance then its k but if it moves a small distance like as soon as u release ur finger after striking, it stops then get it slightly loose having it too tight will cause the screw to break in air resulting in a bad crash 

If bearings are smooth, I am not sure how there is any resistance   since it is a metal to bearing contact
I hope there is a spacer between the dampener and the blade grip

I think he is refering to the feeling of the thrust  bearings within the grips when u tighten the screws just enough  u get tht kinda rough notchy feel but the grips are actually smooth

1. I tried the carrom approach. The grip moves a bit and stops.
2. This kit does not have thrust bearings.
3. I dont know if there is a spacer or a damper. I have not disassembled the head - the screws are tight and i feel i may strip the screws if i apply more force.

Sticky situation huh

Hey sorry, I was actually referring to the aluminum collar. The spacer is different.

The rubber dampener is in the rotor housing. Then comes the collar (it is a bit thick say 5mm)
After this comes the blade grip; the outer bearing of blade grip sits on the collar.
Hence, there is should be no resistance.

The rubber dampener and collar should be visible from the outside.

http://www.readyheli.com/H45021A-Feathering-Shaft-T-Rex-450-Pro-Pro-V2-Sport-Sport-V2_p_33051.html

Thanks raja_mastana and shannon.

The feathering shaft is out
I heated one of the screws several times to get it out.
I noticed that while removing the first screw, after a couple of turns both the blase grips became silky smooth. Any thoughts?