RC India

Hey Guys,

After playing around with a 3ch ModelArt heli for months i wanted something more hobby grade. I moved to cars and bought an XXT. I have learn a lot with the truggy and have had a lot of fun. Its a very convenient stress buster on weekends and i love it!
Now i want to learn something new, something different, challenging and technical.
While exploring my options i spent time reading about multi-rotors. They seemed too technical for my taste. Few hours into the research my thoughts shifted towards helis. I loved it! the more i read about them the more i wanted one.
So now its time to get a 450 heli :)

I would like to document my, slow and patient, journey in this thread. :)

For now:
I spent a week or so reading about CCPM and understanding the mechanics and electronics. This is going to continue.
I will continue watching Bob White videos and learning.
My plan is to buy a radio and learn everything about it.
Second step is to procure a sim and tools.
Third is to buy and put together the bird.

Right now i am in phase one. i will update this thread as things progress.

Cheers :)

PS : Keyword is SLOW. :)

Hey Rajathv8,

I was like this few months back...now I am building a 450. Its a fun and adventurous journey !

Yup it is exciting to learn something new. :)
Got my radio  - Turnigy 9x. I spent some time fiddling with it.
The sim is on its way :)

Update:

I have a sim now. I am not able to get it to work though - i will post details in an appropriate thread.

I am planning on buying the following :
1. Hobbyking SS Heli Series 50-65A ESC
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__10013__Hobbyking_SS_Heli_Series_50_65A_ESC.html (http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__10013__Hobbyking_SS_Heli_Series_50_65A_ESC.html)

2. GA-250 - HobbyKing GA-250 MINI-MEMS Gyro
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__15318__HobbyKing_GA_250_MINI_MEMS_Gyro_.html (http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__15318__HobbyKing_GA_250_MINI_MEMS_Gyro_.html)

3. HXT900 - HXT900 9g / 1.6kg / .12sec Micro Servo for cyclic

4. HK15158A Digital BB/Coreless Mini Servo 25g / 2.8kg / 0.07s as a tail servo.
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__16267__HK15158A_Digital_BB_Coreless_Mini_Servo_25g_2_8kg_0_07s.html (http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__16267__HK15158A_Digital_BB_Coreless_Mini_Servo_25g_2_8kg_0_07s.html)

5. R/C Helicopter Pitch Gauge
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__9653__R_C_Helicopter_Pitch_Gauge.html (http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__9653__R_C_Helicopter_Pitch_Gauge.html)

6. Hook and Loop Universal Tie Down
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__28801__Hook_and_Loop_Universal_Tie_Down_Flouro_Yellow_300mm.html (http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__28801__Hook_and_Loop_Universal_Tie_Down_Flouro_Yellow_300mm.html)

7. 450 Size Heli Blade Balancer Adapter
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__14928__450_Size_Heli_Blade_Balancer_Adapter_3mm_.html (http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__14928__450_Size_Heli_Blade_Balancer_Adapter_3mm_.html)

8. Turnigy 2200mAh 3S 20C Lipo Pack

My requirements are basic. I do not intend to fly hard 3D.
I have the following motor which i plan to use:   

Turnigy 450/500 H2223 Brushless outrunner 3500KV
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__11178__Turnigy_450_500_H2223_Brushless_outrunner_3500KV.html (http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__11178__Turnigy_450_500_H2223_Brushless_outrunner_3500KV.html)

I also have 3.5mm bullet connectors.

I have looked through the specs and read reviews/comments on HK before compiling the above list.
Please let me know if i have missed out on anything or if i can opt for something better :)
Looking forward to your inputs.

i think this would be a better blade balancer
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__11451__Turnigy_R_C_Helicopter_Blade_Balancer_Metal_.html

a swash leveler would also be useful (v2 and pro models have different tools, ensure you buy the correct one)
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__12904__HK450_Pro_Swashplate_Leveler_Tool_.html

Thank you :) I will consider it before buying.

Anyone else? :)

hey hi i have been flying helis for about 2 1/2 years now i own a coax heli a 300 size fixed pitch ,used to own a 450 pro and currently flying 500 ....well its not about what all i have but what all i learnt from having them ....as u have said u switching from an ir coax to a 450ccpm .....firstly out of all the 450 size helicopters out there the trex 450 sport v3 or clone equivalent is better from rc bazaar ....secondly the motor specified is fine ...u can use the hobbyking motor ....as u are learning to fly u can use the hxt 900 servos for cyclic they are good and i have been using  them for a very long time  ;D....most importantly pls do not go cheap on a gyro and tail servo u may regret it the GA 250 is a hit and miss gyro works good for some for others not that great ,if u go cheap on ur tail servo and gyro u will have tail drifting problems and tail wags and these gyros dont compensate for temperature and pressure changes as both these factors change rapidly in our beautiful country ;D u will have to keep on changing  gain settings n with the drift and wag problems u will deff get irritated ....this is wat i suggest ..http://www.targethobby.com/hobbymate-hb790-mems-rc-helicopter-3d-gyro-dual-rates-metal-cov-p-4162166.html this is exactly the clone of a spartan quark gyro from spartan rc which is the best tail gyro till date ......for tail servo use this http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__22687__TGY_306G_Ultra_Fast_High_Torque_MG_Digital_Alloy_Cased_Servo_3kg_06sec_21g.html its a bit pricy but u wont regret this on a long run ..... u can upgrade to the same servos for ur cyclic in future when u get good at flying .....
do not compensate on tail servo and gyro .....also for the esc http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__20690__Hobbyking_YEP_45A_2_6S_SBEC_Brushless_Speed_Controller.html this is wat i recommend its the same esc sold in uk and one of the best in the world its a clone of the yge esc ....trust me on this and dont go cheap on these three things ...i learnt the hard way .....also get a sim i recommend  using phoenix sim . dont even think about lifting off before practicing on the sim or frequent crashes will get u irritated ...many people just leave heli flying cause of this reason ....learning everything on the sim will take u a good 2 weeks if u give it 2 hrs a day but take ur time and dont hurry

tc
shannon

Thanks for the write up Shannon :)
I will be buying a clone from RCB. Unfortunately those electronics are way out of my budget.
I have a sim. I plan on spending time on it once i get it to work with my TX.
I want to order electronics so that they reach me about the time im done with the sim :)

Stick to the 401b from hobby king its the new revised version performingjust like the futaba 401 gyro the ga 250 has some really ugly reviews u would not want to try ur luck with that one seriously ...and if ur in luck and servo is back in stock check for the turnigy mg 930 servo its a metal gear digital servo very very reliable and 13$ its a mini servo u will find it in the park servo section ....its so good that i gets sold out within two days using the very same on the 500  :thumbsup:

I opted for the GA250 after reading reviews on HK. It seemed positive. I will read more - can you direct me to any link where guys have faced problems? :)

The servo is on BK. The specs are - 3.6kg / 26g / 0.14sec. Is 0.14sec sufficient for the tail?  :headscratch:
I was in search of something under 0.10.
I prefer an MG servo but i didnt find anything suitable on HK.

My setups are 6v plus so it speeds up the servos and increases torque so far held my 450 and 500 tail rock solid

There is no specific problem but the gyro is a hit or miss if it works it works ok otherwise its doa

I know ur on a budget but the gyro esc and tail servo are worth it ..if u can wait it out get more cash and buy the above .....cause they are a one time investment specially the gyro hb790 they are clones of reputed brands ...am telling you out of pure experience ..... :banghead: what is ur overall budget how much can u push it till let me know i can figure something out to get u the best

just had a look around ...the assan 250 gyro is a new revised version they removed the comment list of the previous one on hk and the sticker is different so i really dont know how the new one performs as the new one has good reviews ....try ur luck with it  :thumbsup:

Thanks Shannon. I will read up about it :)
I also plan on buying a heli training kit with metal center piece.

Got the Turnigy 9x to work with 3 in 1 sim from RCB.

Changed the mode to PPM and removed the module to make it work :)

I have used info from this  link (http://rctech.blogspot.in/2011/03/turnigy-imax-9x-tx-hk-450-setup.html) for basic setup of my radio.

I am having a hard time with the sim.

I use RealFlight G4 with Trunigy 9x. My radio is in Aircraft mode with no Expo, no DR and no mixing.
I am able to get the heli off the ground but it keeps drifting.
I have tried calibrating the radio, setting the trims etc to no avail.
The heli always drifts or suffers from toilet bowl effect.

Am I doing something wrong or missing something?
I would love to get the drift out of the way.

hey hi ,i dont know if you are saying that as soon as u lift off the heli keeps drifting to right and left or just drifting but that is supposed to happen it is not a coaxial heli to stay in one place little drift is natural but if it just turn anywhere on lift off u have a problem ....u have to set 90degrree mix or no mix in swash plate settings keep both HH and Rate gyro to 50% gain that is about it for tx setup calibrate ur tx with realflight and your done ....but drifting in collective and fixed pitch heli is normal ....it will never stay in the same place ....i suggest u use expo helis normally are very sensitive to control input .....and if u can download it i suggest phoenix rc for heli flying for planes real flight is better  :thumbsup:

"as soon as u lift off the heli keeps drifting to right and left or just drifting"
Shannon that is exactly what i meant.

Bought the Hiller beginner kit today :)

I faced similar drift issue with the sim at RCB. I met Sujju and explained the above to him. His response was inline with yours Shannon.

I guess the "issue" was lack of understanding, time to train my fingers now. :)

Realflight can be used in two modes with a Radio Tx.
1. Joystick Emulation : Use the radio with 4 channels and the sim software does all the mixing.
2. Pass Through Mode : Use radio as one would in the real world, all mixing and setup is to be done manually on the radio TX.

I am currently using method 1.

Yes all have to go through that phase its ok ....even a real helicopter in real life constant inputs have to be given to keep it in one place as rc helis r verg small its harder to keep them in one place but not impossible  ;D ...but drifting will happen no matter how well u set ur helicopter or how well ur trims are set it will drift ...but trust me once u learn to fly one properly u wont stop inti al stage is a bit of an headache ...need any help on setup or anythng pm me or sujju is always available to help u

Pics of what was in the box + the box itself :D

Pic 20 - Box with 30cm scale to judge size.

Pic 07 - Contents, includes everything in the box
         - 9 packets
         - Tail Boom
         - Landing skids

Pic 01 - Landing Skid

Pic 02 - Tail Boom

Pic 03 , 04 - Packet 1 and contents from the top
              - Tail servo linkage
              - Flybar rod
              - Tail boom supports

Pic 05 , 06 - Packet 2 and its contents from the top left
              - Velcro with sticker
              - L wrench 1.5mm or 1mm (not sure)
              - Gyro foam pad with sticker 27mm x 27mm (2)
              - Battery velcro strap 20cm x 1cm (2)
              - Zip ties 9cm (4)
              - Zip ties 14cm (2)

Pic 08 , 09 - Packet 3 and contents
              - Main and autorotation gear with one way bearing
              - Associated bushing, screw and nut

Pic 10 , 11 - Packet 3 and contents
              - Tail assembly with belt

Pic 12 , 13 - Packet 4 and contents from top left
              - Flybar paddles
              - Tail rotor blades
               - Tail servo holder , guides for tail servo linkage and horizontal tail fin holder
              - Horizontal and vertical tail fins

       

Pic 14 , 15 - Packet 5 and contents from top left
              - Frame base plate
              - Packet with anti rotation bracket, Canopy mounts and battery holder
              - Assembled main frame
              - Self tapping Screws and washers

Pic 16 , 17 - Packet 6 and contents
              - Assembled Head
              - Ball links

Pic 18 - Packet 7 with some stuff - pinion, screws, washers. Dont know what the black bits are

Pic 19 - Packet 8 - Dont know what these are either :D

Best of luck with the build... i have to wait till I get my box. My plan is to follow youtube clips by nuttcase

For this kit please download the align 450 se v2 and follow instuctions exactly from there all measurments have to be from peefect as in the manual for perfect setup ...merry christmas
.

@samlikespad: Thanks :) I havent ordered elecrtonics yet.

@Shannon: Will do. I also plan to watch the videos put up by Sujju and Finless. :)

Merry Christmas to all! Thanks Shannon thats's some thing I forgot to consider. Will download the manual. Hope its easy to find.

Yup just goole it u will get it or yiu will find on the main threads helifreak.com.....one more thing i forgot to mention all guys who have purchased the begginer kit from rcbazaar the head and tail assembly is not metal and made out of plastic so dont even dare think bout crazy headspeeds keep ur headspeeds between 2500 - 2700 not more than that and cause ur gonna run such low headspeed pls make sure ur battery is 30c or ur 20c batteries wont last long because of low rpm and high amps ...am sure h cant go more than 2700rpm pls confirm with sujju thise plastic parts are not carbon infused so .......happy hover guys

Shannon, mine is from HK (GT Pro), does that apply here as well?

no yours will be a full metal head from hk  ..this is only for people using the begg kit from rcbazaar the head is made up of plastic parts and is good for begg only .... one major advice though get atleast 2 bags of screw set of 450 pro from rcbazaar and replace all the screws from the hk gt pro all including frame  head everything ..Hk has very brittle screws my very first 450 was from HK that time rcbazaar was not around but those screws they provide are terrable they break easily ....

Thanks shannon will do. I am working abroad. But fortunately for me, I am visiting my home land for a week (3rd Jan 2013). Will order them to my home and bring it with me.

Align/Clone trex 450 se v2 Begginner kit Rcbazaar RPM 2500 -2700 may be 2800 (running fiber glass or carbon fiber blades)

Just for  begginners
Align/Clone trex 450 se v2 2600 rpm normal flight ( fiber glass or carbon fiber) increase to 2800 for sport flying
Align/clone trex 450 sport all versions rpm normal flight 2800 rpm ( fiber glass or carbon fiber ) increase to 2900 for sport flying
Align/clone trex 450 pro rpm normal flight 2800rpm (fiber glass or carbon fiber ) increase to 2900 for sport flying

FOR 3D
Align/clone 450 se v2 2900 rpm
align/clone 450 sport 3000 -3100 rpm
align/clone trex 450 pro 3000-3300  rpm

well u guys may be wondering why 2900 rpm for 450 se v2 well i tried going beyond that and since it is the very first version by  align it felt like it was gonna shatter and perform well only at 2900 ...am not sure but it has got something to do with the design ..... do not use the wooden blades they can only be used at or below 2500 rpm an those blades wont track at all above 2500 just use glass fiber or carbon blades ..use only carbon fiber for 3D or it may shatter in air  ;D

I have ordered both 11T/13T spares. Intent to use the 11T for my initial training period and move on to 13T ( on Turnigy Typhoon 450H 2218H Heli Motor 3450kv). Hope that should do to limit the rpm to the recommended.

for that motor just use 13t pinion the 11t will give u just 2800 rpm at 100% throttle thought it will run efficient it will give u very low flight time run 13t pinion

Aye Aye Sir  :salute:

lol ;D :thumbsup:

The Black bits in pack 7 are for servos you will need these to hold servos in place and packet 8 has knight rod supports and spare ball links

Thanks Hellyflyer :)

I plan to use a 3500KV motor with 13T pinion and wooden blades at the suggested 2500-2700 rpm head speed. This kit will not be used for anything even resembling 3D. It is strictly a learning platform.

Pls use fiberglass blades they are cheap  better than woodies ...u will have alot of tracking problem with woodies specially above 2500 and there are chances of it breaking in air even in a hard turn ..if u wanna use it only for hover practice no problem but nothing more than that ....

Just outta curiosity, How much does a completely built 450 cost?

Rough estimate

A beginner 450 should be under 8,000

A genuine Align DFC 450 (3D capable) with clone electronics (HV servos etc) will be 30,000

A genuine Align DFC 450 (3D capable) with genuine electronics will be 45,000

There is very little difference in 450 kit frame quality between clone and Og also depends wat clone you buy.... Rest electronics are all up to you... Assuming u have ur own tx rx very good clone quality electronics including battery should be as stated above. I would also say a good quality build is possible in 25k... It all depends what u want to put in and how you are going to fly general scale flying, sports flying or your gonna increase your skills to 3d... :thumbsup:

Quoteno yours will be a full metal head from hk  ..this is only for people using the begg kit from rcbazaar the head is made up of plastic parts and is good for begg only .... one major advice though get atleast 2 bags of screw set of 450 pro from rcbazaar and replace all the screws from the hk gt pro all including frame  head everything ..Hk has very brittle screws my very first 450 was from HK that time rcbazaar was not around but those screws they provide are terrable they break easily ....

I requested info from RCB Team about the above. Summary of their response is as follows:
1. The plastic head at 2500-2700 Headspeed is good for hovering, orientation practice, circuits etc. with inverted flight. It is NOT suitable for 3D - fits my needs perfectly.
2. 20C lipo should be enough to learn. 30C MAY not fit easily in the canopy (fit has not been tested)
3. Wooden blades should be enough for hovering and orientations.

maintain 2500 -2600 i have seen woodies break anything above that ,use woodies for hover and practicing orientations only dont do any turns with them ,use glass fiber for learning other basic maneuvers including inverted ,u have or may not have tracking issues with woodies cause they are not stiff like glassfiber and CF they have alot of flex in them ,check out sticky 3D flight training for helicopters for step by step maneuvers in heli basic all the way to advanced . :thumbsup:

You will see woodie way out of track on high rpm they appear like rapid flapping of a chicken wing lol its scary just tried once for fun  >:D

If you need wood blades, pls contact me ... I have few left

PM sent.

Quote from: rajathv8 on December 29, 2012, 07:23:42 PM
I requested info from RCB Team about the above. Summary of their response is as follows:
1. The plastic head at 2500-2700 Headspeed is good for hovering, orientation practice, circuits etc. with inverted flight. It is NOT suitable for 3D - fits my needs perfectly.
2. 20C lipo should be enough to learn. 30C MAY not fit easily in the canopy (fit has not been tested)
3. Wooden blades should be enough for hovering and orientations.

Hi Rajath.. firstly good meeting you during my visit to the store last week... regarding your queries
1. the plastic head is more than enough for your skills which are hovering, nose ins, also circuit flying
2. use 20c lipos for now is more than anough
3. yes wooden blades are good for hovering and orientations and i have also done inverted flights in these...
fyi, the Hiller Beginner at rs 1300 as the name states is for beginners only and not to be taken as a 3D machine... the tracking "mostly" will be due to the slop in the linkages and washout arms,, if you are able to remove this then 90% of your tracking issues will be resolved... and finally the head does not come with thrust bearings so do not overkill this machine and yes this to learn your hovers and orientations without crashing which otherwise you would be doing the same crashes with an expensive heli..

sujju

The Trex 450 SE V2 and V1 manual suggests using threadlock on all screws entering metal parts.
However on the RCB beginner kit several of the metal-metal SE V2/V1 screws are metal-plastic self tapping screws - should all these be CA'd. And is CA application similar to threadlock in terms of quantity and thread count on which it is applied?

I have dismantled the frame and sanded the rough edges with 80 grit sandpaper followed by 400 emery paper.

yes rajath... use quickfix etc is fine but very sparingly... and on the head if the feathering shaft is already tight do not try to remove it by force as the screw might strip ending you up with a useless head... if its not broken don't fix it :-)

sujju

I am have disassembled the frame and am having problems putting it back together :D

I am not able to identify which screw goes where. I have referred to Align 450 SE V2 manual, the manual used 2 screw sizes while i have 5 different screw sizes.

pls refer to the Align sport V3 manual as the tail block of the hiller beginner is made as per the align v3 unit

sujju

    I had the same problem rajath! just a couple of days ago.As told by Sujju sir align sport v3 manual should help . when you are assembling the inner frame, don't put in all screws. Some screws actually are part of the outer frame and they fit in to some slots on the inner frame. 450 beginner thread by Ebin is also helpful.
   
   I have assembled the frame, did not dare to dismantle the main rotor assembly and fly bar assembly !

   The rotor grips on the preassembled main rotor do not move freely, i tried loosening the screws on both sides, but it did not help. What should i do, I could not find anything about this in the manual.
   
Regards,
Sridhar.

Quote from: docsree on January 02, 2013, 07:48:12 PM
   The rotor grips on the preassembled main rotor do not move freely, i tried loosening the screws on both sides, but it did not help. What should i do, I could not find anything about this in the manual.

Not sure what you meant by "tried loosening the screws".
Since the blades grips are not smooth, you need to disassemble the rotor head and check the bearings (and thrust bearings - if they have)
Also, make sure spacers are there in the right places

@docsree :
Thanks for the info. I have not applied CA on certain screws - incase i need to loosen them while installing electronics/ tail boom.
Sujju has suggested above not to use force while loosening the feathering shaft as the screws may become loose.

@eaja_mastana:
He has also mentioned that this kit does not have thrust bearings.

It seems like there is no "ready" information available to build this heli. Its a fantastic opportunity to learn and explore! :)

I will try my best at documenting my build steps with detail.

do not over tighten screws   .....as soon as u feel there is resistance while turning in the end just with ur fingers tighten lightly just turn the hex diver a few mm thats it just say  'in thread lock we trust '  :rofl: let it cure for sometime ur done

Step 1:
I disassembled the frame.
Once done i had the below items as shown in image 21:

Top row left to right
1. ESC/Gyro tray (i guess)
2. Bearing blocks with bearings in them
3. Motor mount
4. Bunch of screws, washers, spacers etc.
  Contents of this bag can be seen in image 22 and 24.
 The naming convention is as below:
  1. T - Self Tapping
  2. M - Machined
  3. Number after T, M - Smaller the number longer the screw
  4. Number in bracket - Number of copies in the frame alone
5. Tail boom block

Middle row:
1. Lower frame plates

Bottom row:
1. Upper frame plates


Step 2:
I sanded the outer edges of the upper and lower frame plates with 80 grit sand paper followed by 400 grit emery paper to form a smooth rounded edge.

PS : I will be using the screw notation posted here in the following posts as well.

Note: There is something unusual about the frame mounting bolts in image 22. Lets see if anyone can spot it :D

Step 3:
I screwed the frame lower plates to the plastic base, making sure that the landing skid screw holes on the base plate are facing down and U-shaped cut on the base plate is as sees in the image. These screws were taken from the bag containing the anti rotation bracket.

Items used:
1. ScrewT3(4)
2. Specialty Washers(4)

The landing skid screw protrusion on one side of the base plate would not align with the grove on the lower frame plate (next to the RHS screw in image 23). I sanded the grove on the plate to fix it.

I apply a small amount of CA on the last two threads of the screw and dab it on a tissue before screwing it into place.

I did not put in the LHS extreme screw yet - this screw is shared with the tail boom support and will be put in later.

Step 3:
Fix the gyro/ESC/receiver tray with the smooth, flat side facing up.
Items used:
1. ScrewT4(2)

Note - No specialty washers used

Step 4:
Fix the motor mount. The fit is lose since two screws up front need to go through the upper frame as well - may need to adjust the position later.
Items used:
1. ScrewT2(2)
2. Specialty washers(2)

Note - I have not used CA on these screws yet.

@ raja_mastana : I meant the screws which bind the rotor grips to the feathering shaft. Yes its a nice idea to disassemble the rotor head and reassemble it. I will try to do it. Thanks.

Step  5:
Screw the canopy holder onto the frame.
Items used:
1. ScrewT4 (2) from the bag containing the canopy holder

Note: No specialty washers necessary as seen in image 26

Step 6:
Screw the bearing blocks onto one of the upper frame plates. Then screw the other plate on.
Items used:
1. ScrewT3 (8 )
2. Specialty Washers (8 )

Its a good idea to place the specialty washer on the screw and then apply CA to the last few threads. If done the other way around, CA can get rubbed onto the washer while putting it onto the screw.

Image 30 shows frame after above two steps.

Step 7:
Screw the battery holder on with the flat surface facing up.
Items used:
1. ScrewT2(4) from the bag containing the battery holder

Note: No specialty washers necessary

Image 31 shows frame after above three steps.

Update:
I have improved significantly on the sim. I can hover the heli tail in.
I have procured the following:
1. Ball link pliers
2. 9g servos from RCB for cyclic

Step 8:
Fix the upper frame bolt - image 32
Items used:
1. ScrewM2(2)
2. Specialty Washers(2)
I have not used loctit on these screws yet as i may need to remove them during servo installation.

Step 9:
Fix the anti rotation bracket - image 32
Items used:
1. ScrewT4(2) found in bag containing the bracket
2. Specialty Washers(2)

Step 10:
Fix the two halves of the frame together in the following order:
a. Fix the front screws through the frame bolts - image 33
Items used:
1. Spacers (2)
2. ScrewM1(2) - use thread lock
3. Specialty Washers(2)

b. Fix the trailing edge screw - image 34
Items used :
1. Spacers (2)
2. ScrewT1(2)
3. Specialty Washers(2)
i have also fixed one screw (ScrewT2) on the tail boom holder as seen in the image. I have not used CA on these screws yet - i may need to remove them while fixing the tail boom.

c. Fix the motor mount leading end screw - image 35
Items used:
1. Specialty washers (2)
2. Spacers(2)
3. ScrewM1(2)

With that the frame is done :)
For the remaining build i plan on being careful with understanding which screw goes where. I will not be posting them here in detail :)

Quote from: RcBazaar on December 30, 2012, 10:22:29 PM
yes rajath... use quickfix etc is fine but very sparingly... and on the head if the feathering shaft is already tight do not try to remove it by force as the screw might strip ending you up with a useless head... if its not broken don't fix it :-)

sujju

The feathering shaft screws are pretty tight.
The blade grips do not rotate smoothly. I feel resistance. Is this ok?
I have tried removing the feathering shaft to no avail. If i force the screws loose i feel the head will get stripped.
Please advise :)

Is it notchy? Do the blade grips rotate one step at a time instead of a smooth movement? Then it is probably bad bearings

It is preferred to be smooth - however, it will still work if resistance is not much

Its not notchy. The grip moves smoothly but there is enough resistance to make me uncomfortable. Im not sure how to gauge how much resistance is ok.

does it feel notchy is grease properly applied ...while moving the blade grips does it move freely slight resistance is ok it will free up on frst spool but if u have to apply too much force i guees u gt the screws out ....ok do this with your finger just flick the blade grip like shooting the striker when play carrom if it rotates a great distance then its k but if it moves a small distance like as soon as u release ur finger after striking, it stops then get it slightly loose having it too tight will cause the screw to break in air resulting in a bad crash 

If bearings are smooth, I am not sure how there is any resistance  :headscratch: since it is a metal to bearing contact
I hope there is a spacer between the dampener and the blade grip

I think he is refering to the feeling of the thrust  bearings within the grips when u tighten the screws just enough  u get tht kinda rough notchy feel but the grips are actually smooth

1. I tried the carrom approach. The grip moves a bit and stops.
2. This kit does not have thrust bearings.
3. I dont know if there is a spacer or a damper. I have not disassembled the head - the screws are tight and i feel i may strip the screws if i apply more force.

Sticky situation huh :D

Hey sorry, I was actually referring to the aluminum collar. The spacer is different.

The rubber dampener is in the rotor housing. Then comes the collar (it is a bit thick say 5mm)
After this comes the blade grip; the outer bearing of blade grip sits on the collar.
Hence, there is should be no resistance.

The rubber dampener and collar should be visible from the outside.

http://www.readyheli.com/H45021A-Feathering-Shaft-T-Rex-450-Pro-Pro-V2-Sport-Sport-V2_p_33051.html

Thanks raja_mastana and shannon.

The feathering shaft is out :)
I heated one of the screws several times to get it out.
I noticed that while removing the first screw, after a couple of turns both the blase grips became silky smooth. Any thoughts? :)

Chnage the screws and dont over tighten  ;D

The screws are unusable.
I will drop down to RCB and buy a screw set - i think its m2x5.
I will also pick up a 1.5mm hex driver if available :)

This is the problem i was mentioning in my earlier post. But im the unlucky one, Im unable to remove the screws, How did you heat the screws. details plz rajath.

Hi docsree. I used a soldering iron to heat the screw cautiously without toughing any plastic. It took 3-4 attempts to get each screw out :)

As mentioned in step 8 it is easier to place the servos (if the servos need to be installed from inside) without the frame bolt installed.

The ball with the extension which extends into the anti rotation bracket must not be CA'd untill it is passed through the anti rotation bracket. Either that or do not CA the screws used to hold the anti rotation bracket to the frame. The bracket can be unscrewed to pop the ball end extension into it and then screwed to the frame.

If both the anti rotation bracket and respective ball are CA'd it would be difficult to get the ball extension into the bracket.

Thanks. Rajath,
i might have partially stripped one of the screws already.
So i don't think i vll proceed further vll contact RCB team. Thanks for the info.
Sreedhar

Completed building the tail.
All was well except for the plastic tail servo holder. One of them has a hole thats slightly larger than the screw in diameter. As a result the holder dangles loosely on the tail boom - seem in image 41.

Got hold of a digital tail servo, pitch gauge and prop balancer.

Yet to work on the doomed feathering shaft screw. The Hiller v2 feathering shaft is different from the beginner kit. Hiller v2's has a depression to accommodate the thrust bearings while the beginner kit's doesn't. I wonder if it is better to get the the thrust bearings as well.

Quote from: rajathv8 on January 31, 2013, 09:52:29 PM
Completed building the tail.
All was well except for the plastic tail servo holder. One of them has a hole thats slightly larger than the screw in diameter. As a result the holder dangles loosely on the tail boom - seem in image 41.

if you look closely the tail push rod guides have a small depression at the centre.. use a cable tie and plush this between the tail boom and the guide and cut off the excess using a sharp blade.. align both the guides is such a way that the push rod travels in a straight line when the rudder servos is in use

@Sujju: Thanks. Will do it once the boom is attached to the frame and tail servo is installed and aligned :)

I bought the Hiller V2 feathering shaft. The screws are better than the one included with the beginner kit. The Shaft itself will not fit the beginner kit head - all i needed was the screw :)

The blade grips move about smoother (could be better though) than it would earlier.

Pic below shows the two feathering shafts. The thread lock on the beginner kit screw can be seen too.

The fixed length plastic ball links between the SF Mixing arms and blade grips are tight. I have not worked with the other links yet. They may require resixing too. Planning on getting myself a resizing tool as seen here (http://www.ebay.com/itm/Ball-Link-Sizing-Tool-for-Align-Ball-Links-4-7mm-/150969628903?pt=US_Character_Radio_Control_Toys&hash=item23267db8e7).

Its worth mentioning that the stock tail pitch assembly is butter smooth :)

Also procured a training skid set with a metal center piece.

Update:
Received all the electronics.
I will be using:
1. HK 2223 3500KV motor with 14/13T pinion
2. HK 50A ESC
3. RCB 9gm servos on cyclic
4. HK H15158A MG Digital servo on tail
5. Assan GA250 MEMS gyro
6. Turnigy 2200mah 20-30C 3s Lipo
7. Turnigy 9x radio gear
:)

Pics of progress so far.
Image 42 shows stripped screws. One screw on the other side is stripped to. Total stripped screws count = 4.

I have installed the head and bolted on the main gear. I observed that when the swash is tilted and the gear is rotated, only one of the blade grips changes its pitch while the other remains in the same position (for the entire 360deg rotation). Will this get ironed out once the head is rotating faster or is there too much friction associated with that particular blade grip?
I have  not installed the servos yet.

Im having trouble deciding if the movements in the head and blade grips are smooth enough. Is there someone in B'lore i can show it to?  :help:

Quote from: rajathv8 on April 20, 2013, 10:59:00 AM
I have installed the head and bolted on the main gear. I observed that when the swash is tilted and the gear is rotated, only one of the blade grips changes its pitch while the other remains in the same position (for the entire 360deg rotation). Will this get ironed out once the head is rotating faster or is there too much friction associated with that particular blade grip?
I have  not installed the servos yet.

Yes this is fine it will be ok when the head is spinning in high speed.

Bladegrips should fall down with their own weight - remove the links to flybar to check this

Hellyflyer

Thanks Helyflyer. The blade grips do not fall down with their own weight - they are plastic and dont weigh as much as a metal one though.

The blade grips are smooth to move, however i have not tightened the feathering shaft screw - it is thread locked but not tightened.

Would like to show it to someone if anyone is free :)

Yeah, it's ok not to tight it completely otherwise the blade grips will be very hard to move, find a sweet spot and be carefull when using loctite on plastic.