Thanks Rajesh,
I guess i will get a ball link resizing tool and loosen the links , a little bit, as I feel they are very tight.

At this point, i have the main heli frame all set up, engine and servos installed. Will need to get hold of a ball link resizing tool and then move on to the radio setup/configuration ( fun part !!! )

Hopefully by the end of this month i should be able to maiden this . Wooohhooooo !!

The courier man came yeterday and delivered Rotor's parcel. I had ordered Ball link resizing tool, pliers and some other stuff.

Will need to resize all ball links as they are just too stiff. I have seen the Finless video, so will be following that.

The gyro has still not arrived. Hopefully in a few more days. Then i will have everything for this heli.

I "hope" to maiden this during the Holi holidays !!!

I am at the point here where all the build is complete and i need to do the radio setup.
The gyro has still not arrived, but other than that everything is in place.

Resizing ball links really helped the controls are smoother now. Earlier they were tight and i had wondered why, because everything had ball bearings in them.

As far as radio setup is concerned :
Aileron control is OK ithink
Elevator is OK too.
Collective, i have a question here again. Since i followed the beginners setup for linkages, the collective range I am getting is -2 to +10 . Now at mid throttle the pitch should be 0 right ? Kinda confusing. The manual states that the control rod lengths adjusted so that at mid throttle the pitch should be +5.5

I guess this is similar to what I had earlier asked on the mini Titan build.

One thing i am concerned about, is that on the servos, I had to install the ball links on the horns. Now there is a tiny nut at the bottom, and though i used some locktitie I am concerned this might vibrate out ?

Also, on the throttle arm, the arm was so thick that the nut was not installed. Should i use some epoxy here ?

I am praying that my gyro comes soon now, Then i would be all set !!!

Quote from: gauravag on February 17, 2010, 10:24:36 PM
Collective, i have a question here again. Since i followed the beginners setup for linkages, the collective range I am getting is -2 to +10 . Now at mid throttle the pitch should be 0 right ? Kinda confusing. The manual states that the control rod lengths adjusted so that at mid throttle the pitch should be +5.5

It is a simple rule. Make sure your pitch curve is linear (-100,0,100 in Futaba radios, 0,50,100 in JR etc). Then setup pitch as if you are preparing for full 3D setup. Go for -10,0,+10 or something like that (depending on the capability of the heli and the flyer, it can be -13,0,+13).  Once this is confirmed (including the fact that the pitch is 0 at mid stick), adjust the pitch curve for normal/hovering mode to something like -30, +50, +100 (in a Futaba radio), and you will get the -3,+5,+10 pitch you need on the blades for hovering.

Quote from: gauravag on February 17, 2010, 10:24:36 PM
One thing i am concerned about, is that on the servos, I had to install the ball links on the horns. Now there is a tiny nut at the bottom, and though i used some locktitie I am concerned this might vibrate out ?

Also, on the throttle arm, the arm was so thick that the nut was not installed. Should i use some epoxy here ?

I use the non-permanent locktite on those nuts, and they work fine. The situation is pretty much the same as in airplanes.

If you are inserting a nut into a plastic arm, a TINY bit of CA can help strengthen it.

Thanks Anwar,
I am just loving to build this heli. For various reasons, first I have learnt a lot by going through the build, that I would have missed had I not undertaken this project.
Secondly I didnt loose or damage a single part during the build, which I was very concerned about.
Next, the servo setup I have now is pretty neat ( according to me ). Setting this up was much easier than the E-CCPM setup, where touching something always changed something else.
Here is what I have :
Throttle : Servo arm parallel to engine carb arm. At mid stick perpendicular to servo.
Aileron : Swash level. Servo arm pendicular to body
Elevator. Swash level. servo arm parallel to the bell crank, and the elevator arm penpendicular.
Collective. Total travel : -10 to +10 . At midstick, pitch 0 and servo arm parallel to body.

The EPA and subtrims did not need much tweaking. I did touch the EPA for throttle and collective, but its like 5-10 point on either side only.

I do have a bunch of questions, for Anwar, Rotorzone, and other experienced heli fliers.
Will post tomorrow with pictures.

Ok, here are some pictures.
I am looking forward to some feedback form Anwar and Rotorzone, as this is my first heli build, and I have no one around me to inspect this.

I do have some questions that I will be posting here.

First picture shows the elevator setup. Swash level, Servo arm parallel to the bellcrank and contorl lever vertical

Second one is the battery and RX installation. It doesnt look very neat but what i did was, wrapped the battery in foam. Then attached it with Velcro to the Heli frame. Put the Rx over it and strapped it to the frame with rubberbands. Is this OK ?

Next is the picture of servo with Collective at midstick ( 0 ) . Shows the servo arm parallel and swach at middle point.

Last picture here shows the throttle at Idle. Now something extremely important. I cannot see the carb, since is gone inside the frame, now I forgot which direction to move the lever to get the throttle to idle. Please see the picture and confirm if you think the throttle is indeed at idle.
Engine is vertically installed, with the head towards the left.

Thanks !!!

More coming here.

Another shot of the battery and Rx installation

Completed Side view of the heli, with the canopy. Looks gorgeous. I did mess up a bit with the decals, because of the compound curves in the front.

Last picture - top view of the canopy. I installed a Voltwatch so i can easily view how much battery is remaining.

One more question. The one/off switch is concealed within the canopy. What is the standard procedure here. Everytime i take off the canopy to switch the heli on and off ?

I used to mount my rx and battery the same stack method.

The throttle is at idle in the picture. The carb opens in the same direction as any airplane engines if you need a reference.

On the side of the canopy there is a oval shaped projection. You can cut that out to form a hole for airflow. You'll be able to access the switch also through this hole. Let me know if this is not clear I'll highlight the location in your pic.

Don't forget the tail pin mod before you fly. Also it is a good idea to change the muffler bolts to longer ones and add lock nuts. Most muffler threads will strip and you'll be forced to do this later anyway.

Thanks Rajesh,

1. On the side of canopy, yes i see the oval projections. Is it advisable to cut out on both sides for airflow ?

2. Whats the tail pin mod. Please point me to a link

3. The engine , RL-53 has the throttle lever designed for a pull-pull setup, however the kit came with only one linkage rod. Am i safe with that ? Or should i get a second rod and do the pull-pull setup.

Also, on the throttle, when i screwed in the linkage boll, there was not enoguh thread on the opposite end to tighten the nut. Should i just leave it like that ? Or is that too risky.

I am a little worried, as if i loose throttle control on a level it could be very very dangerous !

Perhaps you referred to this ?
http://rc.runryder.com/helicopter/t522066p1/

Any other critical / good-to-have mods i should do before my first flight ?

Yes, that is the mod. Use heatshrink and secure it with a tiny bit of CA.

I cut both sides of canopy on mine.

People have reported push pull as a solution to old sticky carb problem. If you have a new style carb, it should be fine. I have not noticed any problems in mine yet.

When you start doing fast backward flights you need to secure your canopy better. The canopy clip will slip off the skids and the canopy could jam the controls to swash.

Same here on two of the issues (although the heli is different).

1.  Even though the carb/throttle arm on the OS 50 SX-Hs (and couple of  TT Redline 53s) most of us use on our Trex 600 Nitros have push-pull capability, we only use one side of it.  It works fine, and is what is recommended in the manual too.  Typically the torque requirements for the throttle are pretty low.

2.  If you secure the ball-link with a tiny bit of CA, and you are convinced that enough of the threads on the ball link have a good grip on the servo arm, it should be fine.

Ok thats great then.
One question, since the carb is all concealed, what is the recommended procedure to insert after run oil. Through the fuel line ? That is usually not the best way because of the 0-rings in the needle.

Please offer suggestions.
I am waiting for the spartan gyro + futaba rudder servo to come. rest all i complete.
Oh, yes i need to get the glow extension, and spares from Rotorzone too.

-Gaurav

Where did you buy this from? How much did you pay? What engine are you using?

Got this one from Rajesh/Rotorzone here. 16.5K i think was the price.

The engine i am using is TT 53 RL.

Guys, I am going to start my heli for the first time today !!
Wish me luck !
Since the engine is brand new, will be following the breakin instructions to run it rich and for short intervals. I have everything setup correctly ( hopefully ) and will post an update here very soon.
Will try and get a video of the entire procedure too !

All the best Gaurav! May your maiden go well!

Nice Addition to your hangar Gaurav! Thanks to Rajesh too for enabling the flyers with such nice products !! KUDOS!!
All the best for the maiden!

All the best ! 

BTW, what fuel are you going to use ?

Well, Got some good news. The maiden was perfect !!! Here is a log of what happened.
4:30 pm, I take my new Raptor 50 to my garden, accompanied by Amir ( fellow aeromodeller ) .
Fuel used is home brew fuel with 22% castor/synthetic blend and rest methanol. No Nitro. Though I usually use 19-20% on 2 stroke airplanes, I increased the oil content here, because the TT manual recommends 25% oil for breakin.

opened the needle 3 turns, as suggested, and fueled her up. After priming , the engine started quickly. As I increased power, around mid throttle the engine quit.
Found out that the glow plug was loose.
Tightened and started again. Since the engine was very rich, engine was sluggish.
I had the curves set as ;
Pitch : Linear -2 to +10
Throttle: Linear 0 to 100.

Anxiously increased power, and at around 80% throttle, the heli got light on skids !!
Increased power a little more and the heli got into a hover ! Just needed 3 clicks of right aileron and thats it !!!!
After a few seconds of hovering, landed and stopped the engine to let it cool.
Did another hover, which was a little longer and then called it a day.
Overall did one full tank and about 5 minute of hovering.

Video will come very soon.

Now, a couple of questions for the experts here :
1. After the flight, i noted that the clutch bell assembly was hot. Is that normal ?
2. Though will do a complete checkup, any special bearing/joint/connection to be inspected ?
3. Though i did grease the one way bearing, and the clutch, i am a little apprehensive that I may not have done it correctly, and that it may cause a problem.
Should the clutch liner be oiled ? or is it supposed to be dry ?

Overall very very happy. I took this up as a challenge, to build a complete 50 size kit, without any local help or presence of an experienced modeller, and to have made it up to this day is very satisfying.
Thanks everyone for their wishes. I hope to do some regular flying with this bird, and post video/more information here, soon.

-Gaurav

Hurray! Good to know it went well. Waiting for videos!   

Quote from: gauravag on March 29, 2010, 07:47:46 PM
1. After the flight, i noted that the clutch bell assembly was hot. Is that normal ?

This had me stumped. I have never checked the temperature of the clutch. I'd expect it to be a little warm, but not hot. The only reason for it to get hot would be if the clutch is slipping. But that would be obvious from the lack of power.

Another possibility is if the bearing inside the clutch is damaged, but that should not be the case as yours is new. Eventually the residues from the clutch will get to the bearing and it will need to be serviced or replaced.

Quote from: gauravag on March 29, 2010, 07:47:46 PM
2. Though will do a complete checkup, any special bearing/joint/connection to be inspected ?

Do an overall check. In a heli, you never know where a problem can develop.

Quote from: gauravag on March 29, 2010, 07:47:46 PM
3. Though i did grease the one way bearing, and the clutch, i am a little apprehensive that I may not have done it correctly, and that it may cause a problem.

If it turns smoothly leave it alone. I hope you used the TT grease. It is a light grease like silicon grease. If you used a thick grease, then you need to use a light grease or oil.

Quote from: gauravag on March 29, 2010, 07:47:46 PM
Should the clutch liner be oiled ? or is it supposed to be dry ?

Clutch should not slip. For this it has to be totally free of oil and dry.

Since you are using the TT53 engine, make sure you just snug the carb bolts enough to make it airtight. Do not over tighten it. Over tightening it will lead to stickiness.

Thanks Rajesh,
I did use the TT grease, and so hope it will work out well for me.
I did another 2 flights yesterday. Again mostly hovering. Since engine was new, I cycled between hovering for 1-2 minutes then letting it cool and then hovering again etc.

Re; engine tuning. I started out with the needle 3 turns open, as indicated in the manual, but that was wayyy too rich . THe manual said that you should hover with this.
Now, my engine was dieing when i increased power, so i had to close the needle nearly a complete turn, in order for it to be rich and still hover.

Fuel i am using is : 78% methnol, and rest castor/synthetic blend.

Whats the usual needle setting on this engine ?

I think you may be missing the 3rd needle on this !  Yes, the typical carb that comes with this engine has a "middle needle" and if the other two does not handle your needs, you may need to mess with this.

And 2 turns on the main needle is within the range of acceptable values. I think we went lesser than that on a friend's TT RL53 on our field (for regular flying, can't remember the number of turns for break in as it was being changed slowly from one flight to another).