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TREX NITRO PRO ASSEMBLY

Started by second_chance, April 27, 2010, 11:29:38 PM

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second_chance

hi everyone

just sharing a few pics of my trex 600 build process. as of now i have no clue when will i be able to get this heli airborne due to time constraints. nevertheless, a small effort from me ! as you can seen that most of the job has been done and very little remains.

some of the details -

metal rotor assembly
ys50 with hatori muffler
aligh 2 in 1 regulator (stock)
1900mah align lipo (stock)
600mm carbon fiber blades
aerospire multigov pro governor
futaba 401 gyro
align 610 on cyclics
align 650 on rudder
futaba 3151 on throttle
spectrum 7ch rx

............cant think of anything else  8-)

second_chance

 :)

second_chance

the work horse !  ys 50

second_chance

upgraded metal rotor assembly

second_chance

plumbing job  :)

second_chance


anwar

Another Trex 600N :thumbsup:

So Align has started invading India too !  Too bad we really do not have a distributor yet :(

Quote from: second_chance on April 27, 2010, 11:33:08 PM
plumbing job  :)

Looks like your filter may be going in the wrong direction.  There is an "clear-colored" arrow on the filter case, that should indicate the flow of fuel from the tank to the carb (so the tip of the arrow should point towards the carb).  For further confirmation, open up the filter, and you will find a little long cup like filter with one end open and the other end covered with the sieved cloth.  The open end should be towards the tank and the sieved end should be towards the carb.  You should check this filter every once in a while once you start flying too.

All the best for the maiden :thumbsup:
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anwar

And do not forget to leave the tail blades loose (enough for them to fall freely on their own weight).  That is the biggest pain with these helis. 

Glad to see another Multigov user :)
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second_chance

hey

thanks for pointing out.......sometimes its a good idea to put up these posts from where you could learn from others.
will correct it right away !

second_chance

Quote from: anwar on April 27, 2010, 11:43:55 PM
And do not forget to leave the tail blades loose (enough for them to fall freely on their own weight).  That is the biggest pain with these helis. 

Glad to see another Multigov user :)

yes i have left the blades loose.

multigov pro is so easy to setup. it just falls into place. no complicated blinkers or counts or led s to watch for. looking back i made a mistake investing in csm revlocks, throttle jockeys and ace zero alpha's. it just took a minute to go thru the gov setup.

second_chance

must confess that i am thoroughly enjoying setting up the trex as compared to my raptors. i look forward to the time that i can get with it.

anwar

Also, line that feeds the crankcase pressure to the tank seems to be rubbing against the edge of the frame, which is dangerous.  Take some fine sandpaper (or a nice file will also do), and file off the edge of the frame to make it a smooth/curved edge instead of the razor sharp edge.  Some people do it for all edges across the frame before they start the build.
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lavneetgyani

hey i just finished building and test flying the NP600 last week. I have the sema align 2 in 1 setup and have placed my switch/monitor on the bottom horizontal CF frame instead.....didn't want the wire to go across the engine!!

Oh, and Anwar, the vibrations have disappeared completely now....loosening the tail blades was one of the things I did too!!!

second_chance

hi lavneet

i was following your posts closely as i had my kit in front of me but no time on hand. finally i could not resist opening the box and going ahead.
how come the tail blades are such an issue as i havent had this trouble with the raptors. or is it the difference because of the torque tube / belt transmissions ?














lavneetgyani

I don't know why, but loosening it gives it some give and seems to help with vibrations. I have made sure that neither my main nor my tail blades are overtightened and would just about fall under their own weight...
Cheers

lavneetgyani

Quote from: anwar on April 27, 2010, 11:57:53 PM
Also, line that feeds the crankcase pressure to the tank seems to be rubbing against the edge of the frame, which is dangerous.  Take some fine sandpaper (or a nice file will also do), and file off the edge of the frame to make it a smooth/curved edge instead of the razor sharp edge.  Some people do it for all edges across the frame before they start the build.

I have a better idea....I have used it everywhere the wiring or tubing rubs against the sharp frame edges.
Slit silicone tubing from one side along its length and just wrap it across the frame edge. A dab of cyno in the corners holds it in place and does not expose the wires / tubing to the sharp edges. It looks neat and is a fool-proof method....will post some close-ups if you want...

anwar

Quote from: lavneetgyani on April 28, 2010, 11:19:19 AM
hey i just finished building and test flying the NP600 last week. I have the sema align 2 in 1 setup and have placed my switch/monitor on the bottom horizontal CF frame instead.....didn't want the wire to go across the engine!!

Lots of folks including me have wired it just like Chand (second_chance), no issues with that as long as you route the wires properly and secure them.  Whatever is convenient works, just need the switch to be accessible, and need to see the voltage monitor LEDs easily.
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anwar

#17
Quote from: lavneetgyani on April 28, 2010, 11:50:09 AM
I have a better idea....
Slit silicone tubing from one side along its length and just wrap it across the frame edge. A dab of cyno in the corners holds it in place and does not expose the wires / tubing to the sharp edges.

That is the other common solution.  Two reasons why it may be sub-optimal... 1. Once you start flying tail-out inverted etc, exhaust will start getting into these areas more and more, and cyano/glue that holds that tube may come off (not a big deal at all) and 2. it looks a bit ugly unless you have black tubing ;D
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anwar

Quote from: lavneetgyani on April 28, 2010, 11:47:55 AM
I don't know why, but loosening it gives it some give and seems to help with vibrations. I have made sure that neither my main nor my tail blades are overtightened and would just about fall under their own weight...
Cheers

You don't want the main blades too loose. Chances of boom strikes increase, especially when you botch autos.
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lavneetgyani

Quote from: anwar on April 28, 2010, 12:09:14 PM
That is the other common solution.  Two reasons why it may be sub-optimal... 1. Once you start flying tail-out inverted etc, exhaust will start getting into these areas more and more, and cyano/glue that holds that tube may come off (not a big deal at all) and 2. it looks a big ugly unless you have black tubing ;D

These are stock photos from the net and mine are not visible from the outside at all!!

second_chance

#20
anwar

i re checked the filter direction and the tip of the arrow is pointing towards the carb. its visible in the second plumbing pic aswell. however it seems to be the mistake from the company itself. they have wrongly placed the internal mesh filter or maybe the direction of the arrow is wrong.

second_chance

as you can see in my first pic, i have used red silicon tubing at the place where the governor wire proceeds towards the regulator side.

second_chance

this time i decieded to go in for the MULTIGOV PRO from Aerospire Corp. the setup cannot be any simpler.

second_chance

some more

anwar

Split out the discussion about Triflow lube into the thread about lubes/grease for helis.

http://www.rcindia.org/helis/grease-types-for-heli/msg20008/#msg20008
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