Gavaskar was a few years senior but have seen him batting at the interschools at Azad Maidan that was stones throw from school. At short break he would be around 50 runs, at lunch break he would be around a century and at end of school when we went to the ground he would still be at the crease. He was a one man army. And there was Milind Rege -- a superb bowler whose cricketing career came to a premature end due to some medical problem.

Wow! Lucky you! 

Saw him only once, in Brabourne. Nearly kidnapped a friend to get a pass, that too only for half a day!

Anyway, no more hijacking KK Iyer's thread! Iyer saheb! Banao 12 models and competition!

Yes
was about to suggest to Sanjay that this personal interaction should be taken to the PM board.
Apologies for the digression.

As the Weasley twins said, Mischief Managed

Quote from: Glidiator on July 18, 2018, 06:17:35 PM
Yes
was about to suggest to Sanjay that this personal interaction should be taken to the PM board.
Apologies for the digression.

Sent from my Moto G (4) using Tapatalk

@sanjayrai55,
@glidiator,
The 1st Chuck is not waterproof at present. Test flying it now will only wet and warp it.
Waiting for a sunny day to apply PU finish.

For a kit, there are two options
1. Raw pieces as we were used to (only balsa with outlines drawn)
2. Really finished, needing only sticking on the wings and stab to the fuselage

By really finished, I mean really professional quality, including, for example,
1. Taper sanded into wings
2. Aerofoil sanded in
3. Dope/PU finish on all parts
4. Approximate nose weight incorporated
5. Etc

I'm wondering if what is needed in a starter combo, is one raw kit for beginners to start with, along with a really finished one, that will tell them what to aim for.
And whether a catapult option is better, as not many may know of a full power chuck launch...

Also, never having sold anything in my life, I find it a bit awkward to ask for a few hundred rupees.
At the same time, I've learnt that anything offered free is considered worthless...

Look forward to advice as both of you know exactly what I mean!
Regards

I gather you will make kits for sale.
The IHC kits I have are ones where the parts are cut to shape but you need to do the standing,  stick wing halves with dihedral, etc.
Yes CLG will give much longer flights that will give more satisfaction for beginners.
And if you are going to give a professionally finished model, then a couple of hundred will not compensate for the time spent in making this model.

@K K Iyer sir,
You can make both kind of kits. Like you said,

Type 1 for the competition. Balsa with lines drawn and pieces cut. Buyer should do the sanding, creating dihedral, and final finishing.
Type 2 for beginners. They only have to stick the pieces and adjust weight before flying. (this should not be used for the competition. May have a non erasable ink marking)

People can buy one of each and try to build the type 1 kit themselves, with the type 2 kit as a guide that has been built by an expert.

You may consider the cost as the registration payment for the competition. Not as direct selling. Those who buy the type 1 kit automatically gets a ticket for competing.

Talking of kits.
Yesterday I did some archeologic digging of my Aeromodelling cupboard. Found stuff I had long forgotten about.
Found the following
Original IHC Bobni kit and copies of the Bobni plans.
A couple of IHC Tich kits, Tailwind and Tiny Tot kits
RTF Chaser, Spitfire, and folding wing CLG Spitfire all of IHC.
BABIX kits, Sailaway kit, Yellow bird kits,
1.5cc & 2cc IHC MILLS Diesels.
Some Chinese foam profile rubber powered RTf models (Mustang).
Plan to get down to to converting these kits. Now that I have the TAN rubber the Bobni and BABIX can be made to fly good durations. Also if the Bobni and BABIX wing ribs are given a camber instead of straight ribs it will improve the flight characteristics I feel.
Have some kits in a carton in the garage. Mainly yellow Bird and Tiny tot .Will send kits to those who wanted shortly.
Was watching some YouTube videos of indoor CLG. The model hints at its peak height and then flies straight for some distance before  beginning flying circles.
Those serious about Indoor HLG, CLG, see the stuff on the AMAglider.com

The IHC rubber Power models did not come with the TAN rubber so suffered in terms of performance. I plan to see what improvement is there since I have TAN rubber of various widths.
The Bobni with cambered wing is like a reduced size Hangar Rat. In fact there is a model called Minnie Mouse which is a scaled down Hangar Rat.

@glidiator,
Sir, pl see new thread
http://www.rcindia.org/kites-trains-free-flight-and-all-others/1st-rubber-power-model/msg291294/#msg291294

Well gladiator... You sitting on s treasure.... The yellow bird was my personal favourite

Oh boy Glidiator .... Now those names evoke some nostalgic memories !

If memory serves right .... then you will need more than TAN rubber to get decent flights.

The plastic props were wobbly , the tissue was heavy and so were the wheels and uc wire

Incidentally .... Does anyone know ? Were all the IHC kits manufactured at Calcutta or different locations ?

From my interactions with Rishi of IHC I gathered that his manufacturing facility was all in Kolkata.

Applying Finish.
Did one coat of dope (NC Clear) mixed with some balsa sawdust yesterday.
Not so good as the balsa dust got lumpy. Talcum powder would've been better. And more thinner.
Sanded most of it off, but still blotchy.

Tried a bit of grey automotive sealer on the fuselage, but stopped due to weight addition.
Sanded it off but traces remain, making the fuselage ugly.

Today applied a coat of touchwood with a brush.
And immediately wiped the wing, stab and fin with toilet paper to minimize buildup.
Should have wiped the fuselage too. Not doing so added 1 gm unnecessarily (that's 15%!)

Meanwhile, see my balancing jig. Two toothpicks stuck in a piece of thermocol! 

Dear Mr. Iyer,

Have you ever tried automotive sealer as nose weight as modelling clay becomes brittle after few months and does not hold on to fuselage after touch down or hitting an obstacle.

@dreamliner,
Thanks for your interest.
Once I've found the approximate CG using plasticine, I usually replace it with a few turns of solder wire stuck with CA on small models.
For larger models, I melt down tyre balancing lead weights, free from the local tyre balancing shop 

A blob of hot glue is also a good idea. Put a bit extra, then reduce by cutting...
Regards

Opened a drawer.
Found a bottle of Red...

@KK
Nice embellishment.
For balancing jig instead of toothpick can use two pencils with eraser top. Cut eraser ends to chisel tip on which to place model for balance checking.

@saikat-- Tissue also tends to warp especially in areas where humidity is high like coastal areas. Yes heavier too. That grocery bag option is good if you are not aiming for serious competition flying where weight is critical.

@shobhit -- I think IHC will still supply kits of Yellow bird and maybe others. Will ask Rishi.

Finally got down to taking pics of the old time favourites.
The Spitfire and the folding wing model -- was it also called the Spitfire though the dimensions are a bit different from the chuck glider. Both from IHC purchased God knows when- atleast 20 years ago I think when I relocated to Goa after hanging up my boots from the Navy and got down to reviving my school days hobby. I bought these to use as demo models for workshops I planned to conduct for the local kids.

Don't recall the second one being called Spitfire.
It's an Interceptor (Jim Walker, 1939)

http://www.americanjuniorclassics.com/interceptor/interceptorhistory.htm

Yes KK it was the interceptor.
Some years earlier tried getting the swing wing mechanism parts which was on their site but out of stock. They dont seem to be selling those components separately anymore.
Interesting history. Amazing that an aeromodel was actually used for anti aircraft gun firing practice.

Just a message to say that the Yellow bird kits will soon be despatched to those who asked for it. Have been caught up in some stuff and am now free.

Here is a chuck glider bipe with German WW1 markings, again a kit from Guillows.  It tracks good on glide path with proper balancing.  No bad habits.

I am wondering whether any other chuck bipe kit or plan for chuck bipe exists.

@dreamliner,
Can't recollect offhand any bipe chuck glider...

Edit:
Looks like you may be an old hand.
Time to come out in the open,
And share your experience...