@kk Iyer
Nowhere close to you.  I am still learning.  Expecting your continuous valuable tips and gain from your building experience.

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First time getting to know of a bike chuck glider.

Guillows used to sell two enemies (Fokker and Sopwith Camel balsa chuck Bipes) together in same pack many years ago.   Have not seen them lately.

@dreamliner,
Come on. Share your knowledge and experience.
Maybe your stock too! 

If interested in chucks, see Arecanaut? thread of ajay sarwan.

Here is my reply to him

@ajay sarwan,
Congratulations.
On reaching the second test of Chuck Glider flying,
Having crossed the first test (finding an approximate CG and getting a smooth glide of 30-40 feet, without stalls and dives). You did pass that test, no? Else you return to stage one!

The second test, or stage, is how to avoid looping in a full power launch.
This has two parts
How to launch
How to avoid looping.

The launch for the first stage is from shoulder height, model held just behind the CG, nose pointed slightly down, aimed at a spot on the ground about 50' away, and pushed gently straight, without your hand describing an arc.

The power launch is utterly different except for holding the model at the same place, ie, just behind CG.
(I'm assuming you are right handed)
Hold the model lightly.
Keep your wrist loose. Don't cock it.
Swing your LEFT hand up about 45degrees, while swinging your RIGHT hand down as low and as far back as you can.
Are you holding the model loosely? Is your wrist loose and not cocked?
If so, the model should be banked RIGHT A LOT MORE THAN 90 degrees and pointing UP ~45 deg.
The action is like a discuss throw.
NO ELBOW BEND. ALL JOINTS OF RIGHT HAND LOOSE, FROM SHOULDER TO FINGERS.
Stand facing the wind, wind up your torso till your left hand points into the wind and 45 deg high.
The right hand will be more than 180 deg away, behind your back.
To launch, swing your whole upper body hard left, release the model when your right hand is about horizontal. At release the model should be banked right about 45 deg and pointed up about 45 deg, and going a little to the right of the incoming wind..

This is the way to launch, and enter the second stage of how to cure the looping!

Enough for one post.
I'm copying this to my '1st Chuck' thread, so that others too can see it.

I'll post 'how to cure looping' if there's enough interest ...

1st Chuck flew away today, and was lost. After 25 seconds from a hand launch! In 20 km wind.
In a successful trial of 'How to avoid looping'

RIP, Dear Tich, unless a farmer finds you before it rains.

@kk lyer

Sir,  I have attached chuck glider stock pic.   Couple of my gliders damaged over the years due to one reason or the other.  In the pic, I have two wings, stab only as I used fuselage and vert. Stabilizer with wing having tricolour.   I will make another fuselage and vert stab out of balsa.

@KK. That was a pretty comprehensive instruction on launching a HLG. As emphasised by you aim in a full power launch is to get immediate transition at the end of the upward trajectory to a level flight without looping.

A couple of videos that Wii give an idea of HLG and CLG flights and trimming.

Aah
1. No tears for my lost fly away 1st Chuck 
2. Dreamliner, you have two obvious volunteers for building your kits 
3. Glidiator, your posts are all Top End, (ie, where one can reach)
4. Mine are Bottom End, (ie, where one can start) !

Have built the Guillows Dehavilland.
Have a Javelin still in box.
Somehow never got down to serious trimming flights of the Dehavilland. Tried it indoor but it needs a large turning circle. Fit for outdoors only.

"Glidiator, your posts are all Top End, (ie, where one can reach"
The Science Olympiad stuff I put up should be achievable by beginners with a little dedication. School kids are doing that in USA.
I'm happy your thread has generated some responses.

@Glidiator.  Adding slight weight on wing tip behind the main chord will reduce the turning radius.

That will cause a bank which then causes a turn.
The idea in gliders is to try and achieve what you want without weight addition so that the AUW is optimal and thereby sink rate is best.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qE0ty-SgpnY&list=UUM-DCc46GbAP3bXPYTb1Hfw&index=16

Friends just have a look here what i made.
it gives me long travel with less decent rate. that is a nice glide ratio. 

Check out this link for trimming CLGs

@glidiator sir,
I'm trying to develop this thread based on personal experience.
As opposed to providing links to what third parties have done.
There is of course any amount of stuff available on the net to anyone diligent enough to search.
Regards

Yup.  Nothing like doing it yourself.
This thread has rekindled my interest in HLG, CLG.
Have 4/5 gliders that have never been flown seriously after building. Sailaway, Yellowbird, Tich, Tailwind, Tiny Tot and one or two  more.
Waiting for clear weather to try them out - the rains this year seem never ending.

Flight path of this chuck glider was parabolic despite of proper balancing.  Added piece of wood after sanding and glued as slightly up elevator.  This arrested the nose dive and behaved nicely on glide path, of course, at the cost of some weight addition.