Wowser Sire! That is a beaut!

VC boss, coming from you, that is a big compliment 

Mr. Iyer sir, thanks. Flit gun? Too many droplets I think

Has anyone tried painting on monokote? Where are Sandy and Gusty sir when you need them 

Sir, manual (metal) flit pump (not gun) gives a fine spray. (Finer than say Colin).
Did an entire motorcycle RE 150 Ensign once.
Inexpensive enough to try once. Best of luck.
It's the electric vibrating ones that spit and sputter.

I would agree with KK Sir. I've seen my bike mechanic painting fuel tanks with the same apparatus. However, he has attached a foot pump to the flit gun. He directs the flow, while his assistant pumps away. Results in a steadier flow without any jerks.

I'll try anything once. But the core issue remains - the covering sags when paint is applied

Then try this trick.
A little bit of enamel paint with NC thinner.
No one recommends this.
But worth a try. I've tried it.
Drying time is longer. Thinner evaporates but paint takes longer.
I think the enamel has greater covering power, so you need less.
Also check if tissue is old.
And don't ever touch it with a brush or sponge or cotton.
Only sprays. Toothbrush, colin bottle, flit pump, whatever.
(Old method for water spray. Dip a toothbrush and flick it with your thumb. You probably know this)
You were right about sticking tissue with GUM and letting it DRY.

Another method is to dip the toothbrush in paint and rub it through a sieve or tea leaf strainer. Used to do this in school.

VC Sir, that must have been for painting SPOTS

I will wait till my next tissue model, and experiment with various options. I still think a single coat of dope (with Universal Stainer for colouring) should do the job

Gentlemen, I tried the finit technique today (was it flit or finit? i think finit)

The good, it works, albeit slow
The bad, I was sweating like a pig in Delhi summer heat and all that to and fro motion (dont get wrong ideas)
The ugly, the sweat fell on the newly painted surface.
The really ugly, the paint spills from the container and the atomizer mouth.

All in all the technique works. I realized, one needs to give short bursts for the paint to flow out decently, and the coverage is small (good in fact so one has more control). Enamel thinned slightly with turpentine (thanks Sanjay sir for the advice).

Will post finished results when they dry up

PS: I also have recently bought the electric spray gun but it makes lots of noise and is a project to clean up so thought of doing this. My feedback.

Interesting, Girish. Yes, the leakage can be a hassle, especially if the drops fall on the workpiece 

Good exercise though 

Hi,

My first guillows piper build ( also first plane build). Which glue should I use ?
Instruction says model aeroplane cement. Where can I get it in India ? ( preferably bangalore) . Please let me know.

Thanks and Regards,
Srivatsa

@srivatsa,
That kit has so many parts/joints that you be better off using superglue like feviquick. Also saves weight. Use Quickfix for parts which you may need to reposition. If you really want model airplane cement (balsa cement)(it is not instant, but faster than Quickfix), i think lotushobby.com (Ahmedabad) has some.
But don't use any of these for the windscreen/windows. Not sure what is required, maybe fevicol.
Best of luck with your first model airplane build.

Srivatsa: I used Cyano (Feviquick) and Stickfast/Quickfix. Iyer sir is correct about the windscreen & windows: they get permanent marks from if the glue contacts the surface. What I did was to use Qickfix very sparingly, only on the contact surfaces and make sure it didn't spread........still, I did get a few stains

i am really happy to see the work space .well organized screw driver ,inch tapes really good mate , would like to have same .

Thank you Vineet. It is a DIY project, can be done in one weekend

@Iyer sir and sanjay.
Thank you. Will heed to it. These parts are very fragile. Definitely need patience.