You can solder them directly.

Infact you can shorten them and solder so that all the esc's can be mounted between the center plates if possible. You will need some silicone wire probably 18/16 awg to extend wires to the motor. You can route those wires through the arms if you wish. That way it would look clean.

But esc wires has to be more on the kk board than the esc to motr distance...
correct me if I am wrong...

Usually wires between batteries and esc should be shortest, while between esc and motor can be lil lengthy.
Yet increasing wire length in any case increases resistance in the circuit but it wont matter much in your case.

I read the other way around...
LOL...
Will see wat I can do...i dont hav wires of this gauge nw...
wil setup n modify later

Im not sure what you read, but you can read this for one of the reasons of keeping wires short. Its an ongoing argument tho.

http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=952523

Another reason is Electromagnetic interference but Im not sure how it would affect kk 2, but its basically bad for magnetic sensors used in ardupilot/multiwii etc

Will go thro... I read it in rcgroups too...
I guess it wont make much diff fr this...will test it and see...
Thank you fr d tip...

Is this setup correct?
Distribution brd is correct? Or any changes?

i also bought same kit from quadkopters.com  nice quad easy setup.... awsome service by @satya sir.. 

Guys need help 
I hav placed kk2.1 switchs facing front...
The motor numbering as shwn in display, should I hav to stand infront n numbr them or stand frm behind and do it? Confused..

first side of board having switch is back side.. and display side is front side or forward flight...

Well the switches side is back side of KK2, (I mean place the KK board so that you can read the LCD from there)

So you should place KK board with switches side coming to your back of the quad , then stand facing the switches, Front left is motor 1, Front right is motor2, Back right is motor 3, and back left is motor 4

front left motor is motor one... front right motor 2 rear left motor 4 rear right motor 3 

Oh ok got it...thanks...

welcome

And one more!!
to calibrate esc, I switched on tx, full throttle, pressed 1 n 4 switch, connectd btry to esc no sound frm esc's... Am I missing anything?

motors are connected or not??

Nope...unplugged...

if motors are not connected connect motors.. coz esc dont have buzzer in it.. the beep sounds comes from motors. motor act as buzzer...

so connect motors and try..

and also remove props while calibrating...

I had thot d same... Bt in rcgroups they told to remove it...will do it n see...

Motors should be connected to calibrate ESC - ESC works only if load is connected and detected.
Also only motors should be there , remove the props

if you remove motors there will be no beep sound... so connect motors and try.. good luck.

Am done!!! Its working!!!
Ill maiden n see...
pi settings??? Any changes to be made or stock is fine?

Pls don't try to take of right after ESC calibration, follow the steps,

1) Apply enough throttle for all motors starts running (Props mounted)
2) Check all props are pushing air down to ground,
3) If not check correct props are mounted in correct motor,
4) If props are mounted correctly, and still some is not pushing air down, Reverse the direction of motor rotation by interchanging any 2 of the 3 motor wires,
5) Rechect motor directions
6) try take off in self level off , and default PI values ,
7) If there is twitching to any sides while take off, Correct it with trims on the appropriate channel,
Once in air, try to hover at one position with sufficient trims and very little stick movements
9) once quad is stable in acro mode, you can try self level - why I say so because an unstablised quad in self level mode acts weird