Received d parcel today...!
been waiting for a long time!
I dont get much time since I am workin, will build as early as possible...
This will be the build log...
Sorry for not attaching d pics
and thanks to quadkopters for the gud parcel..
never expected d packin size to be so small!!
Finished with d frame...
Luvd the landing gear!!
Thanks Karthik,
Do no strech the landing gear so much and for a long time. If you happen to break the spring or if its loosens there are very less chance of getting spare spring :(
Oh thanks fr the tip...wont do it..
here's the build so far...
I got the X600 and must say after the first fall the landing skit broke. TOO weak :(
Oh... Will fly it n see...if it breaks will do a different landing gear...
Mine were different skit. Your seem more rigid
Lets see hw it performs...
Haven't you attached the motor mounts ? or are the motors directly attached to the Al tube in this frame ?
a separate mounting board is given in the kit. That itself gets fixed to the AL Tube
Is the motormounts CF or GF ?
They're definitely not my GF XD
I have attached d motor mount...in this I just placed it...
I have put motor mount in this... Need to prep d electronics....will see if I can finish over night..
yea motor mount set-up is fine.
:thumbsup:
whats your build set-up btw ?
Since its ARF its same as in d website...
oh. ok ..
:help:
Guys should I have to solder d wires directly into d distribution board?
Cuz I hav 12 female bullet connectors which goes for d motr connection..
any idea???
I always prefer using a Breakout cable
I had done a similar setup fr my Tcopter...
but dint feel it was gud...
distribution brd setup luks gud...
up to you :)
Hmmm...
Wires r nt lengthy enough... Will see wat to do..
You can solder them directly.
Infact you can shorten them and solder so that all the esc's can be mounted between the center plates if possible. You will need some silicone wire probably 18/16 awg to extend wires to the motor. You can route those wires through the arms if you wish. That way it would look clean.
But esc wires has to be more on the kk board than the esc to motr distance...
correct me if I am wrong...
Usually wires between batteries and esc should be shortest, while between esc and motor can be lil lengthy.
Yet increasing wire length in any case increases resistance in the circuit but it wont matter much in your case.
I read the other way around...
LOL...
Will see wat I can do...i dont hav wires of this gauge nw...
wil setup n modify later
Im not sure what you read, but you can read this for one of the reasons of keeping wires short. Its an ongoing argument tho.
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=952523 (http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=952523)
Another reason is Electromagnetic interference but Im not sure how it would affect kk 2, but its basically bad for magnetic sensors used in ardupilot/multiwii etc
Will go thro... I read it in rcgroups too...
I guess it wont make much diff fr this...will test it and see...
Thank you fr d tip...
Is this setup correct?
Distribution brd is correct? Or any changes?
i also bought same kit from quadkopters.com nice quad easy setup.... awsome service by @satya sir.. :salute: :thumbsup: :thumbsup:
Guys need help :help:
I hav placed kk2.1 switchs facing front...
The motor numbering as shwn in display, should I hav to stand infront n numbr them or stand frm behind and do it? Confused..
first side of board having switch is back side.. and display side is front side or forward flight...
Well the switches side is back side of KK2, (I mean place the KK board so that you can read the LCD from there)
So you should place KK board with switches side coming to your back of the quad , then stand facing the switches, Front left is motor 1, Front right is motor2, Back right is motor 3, and back left is motor 4 :)
front left motor is motor one... front right motor 2 rear left motor 4 rear right motor 3
Oh ok got it...thanks...
welcome :thumbsup:
And one more!!
to calibrate esc, I switched on tx, full throttle, pressed 1 n 4 switch, connectd btry to esc no sound frm esc's... Am I missing anything?
motors are connected or not??
Nope...unplugged...
if motors are not connected connect motors.. coz esc dont have buzzer in it.. the beep sounds comes from motors. motor act as buzzer...
so connect motors and try..
and also remove props while calibrating...
I had thot d same... Bt in rcgroups they told to remove it...will do it n see...
Motors should be connected to calibrate ESC - ESC works only if load is connected and detected.
Also only motors should be there , remove the props :)
if you remove motors there will be no beep sound... so connect motors and try.. good luck.
Am done!!! Its working!!!
Ill maiden n see...
pi settings??? Any changes to be made or stock is fine?
Pls don't try to take of right after ESC calibration, follow the steps,
1) Apply enough throttle for all motors starts running (Props mounted)
2) Check all props are pushing air down to ground,
3) If not check correct props are mounted in correct motor,
4) If props are mounted correctly, and still some is not pushing air down, Reverse the direction of motor rotation by interchanging any 2 of the 3 motor wires,
5) Rechect motor directions
6) try take off in self level off , and default PI values ,
7) If there is twitching to any sides while take off, Correct it with trims on the appropriate channel,
8) Once in air, try to hover at one position with sufficient trims and very little stick movements
9) once quad is stable in acro mode, you can try self level - why I say so because an unstablised quad in self level mode acts weird :)
default is fine...in my case when i try to fly quad it flips. than i reset pi settings and change it according to your frame...
if your quad is not stable... it drifts check this..
Ok all d points noted...wil check nw..i had dne Tcopter d similar way...so will chk all precautions..
:thumbsup:
Whr would be d right place to mount Battery?
at cg of the quad
LOL tat iknw ;D
Thr is no space in dis frame so want to knw exact location...
anyways gt it...wil see if it wil wrk..
at the bottom side of centre plate
Tats whr I mounted... LOL
Ready fr test and maiden...
good luck ...
Thank you
Is d roll n pitch angle correct?
Its on a flat surface
i think this should be zero... try trims... wait ill provide you youtube link
check this out..
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0W7PiV6qvWc#ws (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0W7PiV6qvWc#ws)
Ok will test it n see d pi gain...
Guys each mtr is spining in diff way...
Wen I giv a frwrd signal it cmes back and diagonal mtrs spin faster wen I giv left or right signal
I tot aileron signal was interchanged to rudder but its not...
Have you done a receiver test? Are all the channels correct? Make sure to trim them to zero and set end points so that values are between -90 or -100 to 90 or 100. Have you done the accelerometer calibration yet? Which firmware are you running? I suspect the motors are not connected in the right order. Diagonal motors should spin faster when there is yaw input. The elevator channel may be reversed.
Quote from: VTOLkarthik on December 21, 2014, 06:34:53 PM
Guys each mtr is spining in diff way...
Wen I giv a frwrd signal it cmes back and diagonal mtrs spin faster wen I giv left or right signal
First of all you should avoid typing short forms as in SMS, It took me a while to understand, by 'mtr' you meant MOTOR :banghead: , So please type in Full words and sentences.
but some very common short forms like ' pls ' for please, common forum short forms like IDK, IMHO ,IMO etc... etc... are fine .
Now to your problem, follow the steps,( After all the motor directions, props etc are correct )
1) Place the quad in level surface, Means pitch and roll angle should be zero, If not calibrate Accelerometer, by placing in level surface.
2) enter the receiver test menu, Here you can see the Interpreted value from each receiver channels.
3) Hold the elevator stick to down, the value against elevator should be b/w -100 to -90, If it is higher (>-90) or Lower (-100) Then change your elevator channel lower end position (in Tx) to adjust this to the needed range. Also while you move the elevator stick to down, 'Back' should be displayed against this channel (in LCD), If it is displayed 'Front' Instead of Back, Just reverse your elevator channel.
Now Move elevator stick to High end, and change endpoints to adjust max. value in bet ween 90 - 100 range. (Also it should display Front against this value) .
Now the configuration for your elevator channel is completed
4) Follow the above step for Aileron(Roll) and Rudder (Yaw) channels , But in this case it will be displayed Left or Right according to stick movement instead of front or back as for the elevator channel. Also adjust the min, and max. stick values to fit in the same range as set in elevator. Reverse the required channels.
5) Now for throttle channel the min. stick value should be higher than -90 and max. value less than +90 . On throttle max, it should display 'full'.
6) Now your accelerometer and receiver are calibrated and set up.
7) Apply 20 - 30 % throttle, quad should not lift from ground .
8 ) Move elevator stick a little forward, back motors should speed up, and hence quad starts tilting to f/w , on moving elevator b/w , the quad should tilt b/w .
9) Check aileron and rudder channels also in this way.
10) Now every thing is fine and LIFT OFF to the skies, try to hover at one place and apply necessary trims to make it stable.
If you don't understand any thing, Feel free to ask out before breaking any props ;D
Happy landing :)
Again SK, you are ahead of me :giggle:
:hatsoff: SK1701, :)
@VTOLKarthik, he has a special skill to summaries the main points, so SK's post says everything which I stretched to a big paragraph, (Wish I had those skills !!) ,It's better, you follow SK, and read my story, only if you stuck again :)
Nice explanation Sooraj :thumbsup: more detailed than mine. I am feeling quite tired and SMS language does not really inspire a detailed response for me :P
Ok sorry everyone... Since I dont have PC(Where I can type properly), I am using mobile for this... So as usual I do it likewise...
sorry for the trouble..
coming to the issue, I will look into what u said...the main prob was the kk2.1 cables were interchanged during the wiring process. I should have done the receiver test again after this which I dint...lesson learnt!
Due to this prop broke.
Will get new one and try it...
Thanks for everyone and sorry fir the sms language!
No problem. Good luck with your flight :thumbsup: Just a tip, buy plenty of spare props. They break really easily when you are getting your quad set up and learning to fly.
What, you already broke a Prop ???
What exactly happened ?
And @SK,
Quote from: SK1701 on December 21, 2014, 08:45:10 PM
Just a tip, buy plenty of spare props.
I really don't recommend that, Props brake often, but they are not meant to be broken :) .
@sk1701 You know what? I have 7 pairs of quad props which r 12 inch! And I hav sf props and I hav 10 inch CCW props 3 but d prop which broke was CW, no spares! Timing!
@sooraj it hit a rock nearby wen it flipped..
Quote from: VTOLkarthik on December 21, 2014, 08:51:12 PM
prop which broke was CW, no spares! Timing!
@sooraj it hit a rock nearby wen it flipped..
Exact situation occurred to me once !
Few tips,
Test your quad in soft prop friendly situations, Like Thick grass or bed or even a heap of sand or mud (But take care no dust get in to motors)
Also don't apply more than enough throttle to get all motors running, before you tune and setup your quad - for tuning purpose 20 - 30% throttle will be enough - No harms.
If due to any reason, you lost control, a timely cut off of throttle can save you from extra damage.
And I know it is so frustrating that you can't test your quad just because of a prop, So A quick remedy - Wisely use quickfix on your props (Thanks to Arun.sreelakam for the idea) Let it dry - Take my word, you don't have to fear to try hovering your quad with this quickfixed props - with a gentle throttle control, you can safely, maneuver too !!!
But throttle control should be very GENTLE This is No time for ACRO- Happy flying :)
What I thought was to cut short the 12 inch prop to 10 and try it....
No - that will affect balancing and aerodynamic property of a prop (If there is such a thing!!)
Best way to test your quad is, quickfix your broken prop itself, Just be patient till the Quick fix finishes it's action wait for at least half an hour - this glue is a wonder once let to fully set :)
CAUTION:
DO NOT USE BROKEN PROPS REPAIRED WITH QUICKFIX OR EVEN ARALDITE.
Since I will be off to work and wont get time to fly in d eve, I will order fr props n test it once again...
@Iyer sir, Not an argument,
I don't want a repaired prop to sports fly my quad, but for tuning it up and stabilizing while hovering - this helps, but USE WITH ATMOST CARE.
I personally used the trick many times, with out injuries to person nor equipment (I know that won't be the case always)
SO, I TAKE BACK MY SUGGESTION, I DON"T WANT ANYONE TO BE INJURED DUE TO MY STUPID IDEAS :(
Hello everyone!
I was examining with d observations u all shared... And I made tests with props off..
I noticed that wen I move elevator stick forward M1 slows down and M4 speeds up(which is correct), wen I move rudder to right M1speeds up(after I reversed in my Tx) but M4 should also speed up right? But it doesnt..wen I move rudder to left M4 speeds up which it shouldnt..
correct me if I am makin any mistakes
Was this testing done with self level on? If so, that could cause these odd results.
No self level was off...
also I found tar it behaved properly wen I swapped M3 and M4 which was causing d issue...
Is this very common?
Seems like an odd problem. Maybe it is something to do with the firmware. Which firmware are you running?
1.9s1
Dude, Issue is not with the f/w , you need to reverse the rotation of M3 and M4 :)
Well, it seems you have to read my explained post now :)
The motor 1 and motor 3 should rotate clock wise and M2 and M4 should rotate CCW.
If any motor is not rotating the needed direction, swap any two of 3 wires from ESC to motor :)
Tats wat I hav done... Check d pic I hav attached in d previous posts
Are you referring to pic on reply #83 ? That configuration worked for you ?
It is the wrong config.
As u said m1 and m3 are clockwise...and m2 n m4 are CCW
Right motor config. attatched,
Reset you KK2 board,
Load Quadcopter X motor config.
Do the receiver and acc. calibration and tests again.
Throttle to 20 %,
Check all motors are rotating required direction, if not reverse the motor.
Now everything will be fine :)
I dint get d right motor config attached part?
Sorry, about that, pic attatched now :) Slow net connection :banghead:
Ccw fr m4 tats wat I had earlier... Its correct with mine
Ok reset the KK board and, go through the steps,
Check whether problem persists.
Tats d last resort as of nw... If not ilk rry with diff firmware..
Received the prop...
I did a factory reset and tried once again with everything...
still Wen I giv rudder signal to left instead of M1 and M4 increasing M1 and M3 increases..
I also checked whether aileron mand rudder signal r interchanged but its nt...
shall I interchange m3 and m4?
:help:
When you give rudder left, M2 and M4 should speed up since they are spinning CCW. Are you sure all your motor connections are correct and that they are all spinning in the right direction? M1 and M3 should be CW and M2 and M4 should be CCW.
the prop directions r correct... Does rudder left wil make m2 n m4 spin faster which r diagonally opposite?
Yes, rudder is supposed to make diagonally opposite motors (which spin in the same direction) spin faster. Left rudder should make the CCW motors (M2 and M4) spin faster.
Oh then there was no issue... I got confused then!
Will it be okay if I interchange rudder and aileron?
since elevator n rudder r on left in my tx its easier to control...
???
:help:
Quote from: VTOLkarthik on December 25, 2014, 08:50:11 PM
Will it be okay if I interchange rudder and aileron?
since elevator n rudder r on left in my tx its easier to control...
So your Tx is mode1 ?
Well, there is no problem in interchanging the aileron and rudder channels if it is comfortable for you.
Bu which is your radio ?
Quote from: sooraj.palakkad on December 27, 2014, 11:43:45 PM
So your Tx is mode1 ?
he is now using as mode 3 and he need to change that to mode 1.
Quote from: sooraj.palakkad on December 27, 2014, 11:43:45 PM
Well, there is no problem in interchanging the aileron and rudder channels if it is comfortable for you.
and mode 1 is commonly using than mode 3 (same hardware but rudder and aileron interchanged)
Quote from: VTOLkarthik on December 25, 2014, 08:50:11 PM
Will it be okay if I interchange rudder and aileron?
since elevator n rudder r on left in my tx its easier to control...
Reading the above post I thought he is currently using a mode1 .
I hav elevator n rudder in left...which is model1... Right?
Sanwa SD 6G
Quote from: VTOLkarthik on December 28, 2014, 01:33:34 PM
I hav elevator n rudder in left...which is model1... Right?
Yes,
Ok... Ill interchange the elevator n rudder and test it today
Quote from: VTOLkarthik on December 28, 2014, 01:47:47 PM
Ok... Ill interchange the elevator n rudder and test it today
you meant aileron and rudder, ain't you ???
What you are trying to do is changing your transmitter to work as mode3 . But most programmable transmitters have built in mode settings, to chose different modes - if your Tx has such a function, you can avoid interchanging receiver connections :)
Oh sorry I mean rudder n ailerons..! :bow:
I dont hav tat settings... :banghead:
btw I tried to maiden it, but broke 2 props :-\
Hw to tune the PI settings? :banghead:
I need to to chk wit d manual or need to google it.. :headscratch:
may be this video can help you..
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0W7PiV6qvWc#ws (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0W7PiV6qvWc#ws)
I had near to these values... Will chk once again later...
@VTOLKarthik, default PI values are enough for starting, after stabilizing your quad with transmitter expo, sub trims and trims, you can get to PI tuning , for the response you need :)
PI values fr gain n limit were around 200, 250...
so st it to recommended settings as in d manual..wil tat be ok?
250 is way too high. What are the new values you set it to? This link will also help you tune the quad: http://oddcopter.com/2013/01/06/easy-diy-quadcopter-build-part-4-tuning/ (http://oddcopter.com/2013/01/06/easy-diy-quadcopter-build-part-4-tuning/) The initial values given in this link should be OK. BTW, what are your self-level gains?
Self level is off...
Gain n limit was near to this value...
I think you should first try flying with self level on and then once you are used to it move on to flying in acro mode. Self level helped me a lot when I first started flying my quad and now I am confident flying with self level turned off. Set the PI gains to:
Roll/Pitch P-gain: 30 (This is pretty low, you could even start around 40-50)
Roll/Pitch P-limit: 100
Roll/Pitch I-gain: 0
Roll/Pitch I-limit: 20
Yaw P-gain: 50
Yaw P-limit: 20
Yaw I-gain: 0
Yaw I-limit: 10
Self level P Gain should be around 40-100 (max). Newer firmware versions have improved self level feature so an update may help your flight performance. just to check, you have loaded the correct motor configuration right?
Ok wil try wit self level on...
yes I hav loaded d correct motor configuration...
Guys flew it today...!!!
Its was little unstable was tuning n flying... Suddenly d prop broke off in d mid flight n crashed... 2 props broke n motor mount broke off too... Couldn't take a video though..
Prop broke in mid air , out of nothing ??? , that is unimaginable !! , where the props very weak due to previous crashes ?
It crashed once on side ways on grass... Aftr tat I flew twice n then on third time d prop broke mid air n wen it toppled over, d opposite prop broke...
Broke motor mount
suggestion for motor mount... drill holes in aluminium booms and mount motors on that quite strong...
I already made custom motor mount...
will try to fly in d eve n see how it works...
:thumbsup:
I tested it once again... Was able to fly well
During 3rd test, som guy came(thanks fr him to take video :hatsoff:) dont knw y prop broke ... :banghead:
http://youtu.be/VKRsjYY_msI (http://youtu.be/VKRsjYY_msI)
I was able to fly better today...
Had it under cotrol until d charge got over...dint break any props! gt props n prop adapters frm edall hobby :thumbsup:
But wen in hover it keeps moving or wandering everywhr...
How to make it stay in one place? Wat would be the PID values?
Dont go to alter PI values now.
Trim it level, watch in which direction it is drifting, apply trim in that channel in opp. direction, till it is stable, perform this for 3 of the channels .
Hmmm ok will try that :thumbsup:
I had started to build a canopy like protector fr the quad and its ready to test...
I dont know if its going to wrk out...
Looks pretty good. What material did you use?
When I get my foam sheet, will make one :)
Thanks...Its EPE...
PI settings
roll/pitch
pgain 70
plimit 70
Igain 50
Ilimit 20
Yaw
pgain 45
plimit 20
Igain 40
ilimit 10
Any recommended values other than this?
How is it flying with this values ?
If it is comfortable for you with this values, then there is no problem.
Wen increasing throttle it wanders everywhr... Doesnt stay in one place bt its controllable..
you need trimming to make it stable, also is your frame balanced ?
Frame is Balanced...will chk trimming
Trim it level and then play with PI settings.
Tats wat I am doing... :thumbsup:
[url http://youtu.be/fa1P2smJdqA (http://youtu.be/fa1P2smJdqA)[/url]
Flew it during night... Near my home..
Oops it was in private all the time...changed
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Pu8HRaI0ZnE (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Pu8HRaI0ZnE)
Wen I fix throttle to 50 or 60 it wil lift off to certain height but it won't maintain the same height, it falls down but if I increase throttle even for little ir goes high...
any idea wat I should change in the setup?
Tried the Same thing today.. the hovering you mean ?
I did it via the trims :)
and I couple it with throttle cut to disarm the board.
Me too had this problem. Later found that there is a height dampening feature in KK board, I just tried increasing the value unti. my quad stopped altitude variation by it's own .
You can find the difference in here:
this is my first flight, I didn't tweaked the height dampening in this, you can notice the quad coming down on its own. www.youtube.com/watch?v=6FSuqgml5hI (//http://) (//http://)
And here is the fully trimmed and tuned stable flight with KK 2 : www.youtube.com/watch?v=ldRUtiPZzWA (//http://) (//http://)
Oh ok...wil chek it... What is d value for it?
default value is 10 I think... don't remember well.. :( The board is not with me now...
Ok will play with it and see..
Guys need help!
today I switched on my quad and there was smoke!
checked the kk board and I could see the base metal expposed...tracks of the pcb gt damaged..
Dont know how it happened...
Seems the tracks are damaged, where did the smoke came from ?
Any crashes before ?
Check whether any components in KK board is burnt.
Checked others no issues...
no major crashes...
Is it possible to claim replacement? Will I get since its been less than a month frm date of purchase?
Replacement depends on your sellers discretion on returns and replacements, so you should check with him.
Altho I wont be surprised if seller denies replacement since its not easy to ascertain in such cases if its a user error or a defective product as you had used the FC successfully. Good Luck. :)
Smoke only comes from the board if there is interchange of Electrical Terminals ... By chance, negative is given to positive terminal and vice-versa
It was already flying...i just connected as usual to fly...
That too the location is where the buzzer is connected, which I dont use..
Please post close up images of your KK2 board.
Meanwhile Individually check other ESCs and motors for problems.
The lcd display switches on but no GUI
Top n bottom pics...
That is Ground track being ripped off, but this seems strange ??? Even reverse polarity wont make it... How come the Copper track came off the board ? Due to heat ?
Did you used the battery voltage monitoring function ?
P.S: The board seems still, repairable :)
I hav low battery voltage alarm... Ill do wire modification if I domt gt replacement...
Guys am planning to get apm or cc3d... Its not possible to do wire modification for this...
so my question is is it possible to mount in this frame?
which is better out of apm n cc3d?
If you want more capabilities with your quad (RTH , Waypoints , Telemetry...) Go for APM. But if you need only stable flying, CC3D is better and is very very cheaper (16$ only) .
Both flight controller will fit on your frame :)
Ok :thumbsup:
I decided to get apm2.6 which is gud to get from?
this
http://rcmumbai.com/index.php/product/amp2-6-with-lea-6h-gps-external-compass/ (http://rcmumbai.com/index.php/product/amp2-6-with-lea-6h-gps-external-compass/)
Or this
http://robu.in/shop/apm2-6-ardupilot-mega-2-6-external-compass-apm-flight-controller-w-ublox-lea-6m-gps/ (http://robu.in/shop/apm2-6-ardupilot-mega-2-6-external-compass-apm-flight-controller-w-ublox-lea-6m-gps/)
or this
http://m.banggood.com/APM-Flight-Controller-Set-APM-2_8-6MH-GPS-OSD-Radio-Telemetry-etc-p-960341.html (http://m.banggood.com/APM-Flight-Controller-Set-APM-2_8-6MH-GPS-OSD-Radio-Telemetry-etc-p-960341.html)
I want to get a quality one... No clones or bad ones.. :giggle:
Quote from: VTOLkarthik on February 06, 2015, 07:50:10 PM
....
I want to get a quality one... No clones or bad ones.. :giggle:
That is indeed a good decision. My clone APM came without two screws. Also, the barometer on my board is a lot more noisy than my friend's original APM board. Try and get the original APM 2.6 and not the 2.5.2 clone. It'll be worth the wait.
Oh, and the last link is for version 2.8 and not 2.6.
Any issue wit 2.8? Or advantages wen compared to 2.6?
I don't really know. I didn't get any official links upon a google search. It seems the 2.8 has a jumper for selecting between internal and external magnetometer, whereas, the 2.6 clones don't have an internal magnetometer at all. In any case, buy the APM with plastic cover. That way you can do perfect accelerometer calibration and add light protection for the onboard barometer.
Ok.. :thumbsup:
where shall I get frm?
which store is gud to buy?
Well, I got my clone from Satya (http://quadkopters.com/ (http://quadkopters.com/)) and have no problems with it. Adding proper vibration protection and light protection did away with the baro noise too. My quad flies great!
You can get the original one from overseas. But, if you don't want to wait long and just want the quad for general flying, then go for a clone. There's differences in manufacturing quality only.
I wanted GPS as well...
Get a good GPS even if you buy an APM clone. APM's coolest features require a GPS and a low quality GPS will make them seem lame.
Check this one out:
http://www.quadkopters.com/product/flight-controllers/neo-7n-gps-w-3-axis-compass/ (http://www.quadkopters.com/product/flight-controllers/neo-7n-gps-w-3-axis-compass/)
It's supposed to be better than the neo 6M (or 6H) version.
I have bad experiences with clones, tats the reason I dint want to...
I will look into it tho...
:thumbsup:
You may go for this APM complete kit if you are buying outside India :)
http://www.ebay.com/itm/131340217453?_trksid=p2060778.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT (http://www.ebay.com/itm/131340217453?_trksid=p2060778.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT)
And all links you posted are clones - for original APM, you have to buy from 3DR.
Quote from: VTOLkarthik on February 06, 2015, 09:06:49 PM
I have bad experiences with clones, tats the reason I dint want to...
I had the same thoughts before buying the APM clone too. But, I found out that a lot of people here (and overseas) are using the APM clones without problems. You'll get similar flight characteristics with the clones too. The only drawback is manufacturing quality.
Oh, and do get the telemetry kit as well. That way you can get regular voice updates about battery voltage, heading, altitude etc. You can also control your APM with an android phone/ tab this way.
Hmmm ok... Will look into it..
Karthik sir, Have you decided on APM ?
Yep :thumbsup: (:|~
dont call me sir tho.. ;D
hi guys!
got apm2.6 at last from a fellow member!
connected to mission planner and following d steps...
Stuck at this step whr it shows d frame selection qnd in d right thr is this list..
which one to select?
use wizard from initial setup.
I selected quad x4 rtf option and finished calibration...
OK, that's enough. The option that you asked is for reset all parameters to its defaults.
Ya.. I understood tat..
Nees to see hw it behaves wit my quad..
Hello guys!
the whole build was in a state of hiatus..
now continuing it..
all the calibration and procedures has been followed.. But am not able to arm the APM..
see d snapshot...
While calibrating esc's all d motors spins perfectly but wen I reconnect it doesnt...
Any errors in mission planner regarding prearm check?
If prearm check is enabled then this will not arm without GPS lock
May be rudder is reversed.
Or
For arming need keep throttle down and hold rudder stick to right(normally 2 to 8 seconds ) until led sequence shown
Edit : also should need to keep APM in level while arming.
Am not sure about prearm...wen I connect first time, it arms and all d motors spins but after few seconds it turns off.. Wen I reconnect it doesnt arm
rudder is not reverse as well..
APM is in level while arming...
Forgot one thing that the motors will not spin in new apm firmware while throttle is in zero(even if armed but the red led should solid) and need little throttle up to start spin.
I dint get it...
After armed the motors will not spin in low throttle. You need to increase throttle to spin motors.
Also can you please post a screenshot of mission planner(flight data page)
I tried increasing d throttle but dint work...
Is the motors outputs connected is in 5,6,7,8? That should be changed to 1,2,3,4
Edit :Sorry its already connected in 1,2,3,4 shown in the previous pic.
Armed? And no motors spinning?
So now check THR_MIN and THR_MAX Parameters.
Is it ok to connect to pc wen the apm is connected via battery...
yes, but always remove props while testing and keep radio on and throttle to min, else had some bad experience while updating parameters (with old firmware) and especially fail-safe,
Ok... I hav similar experience on it... So I do hav a precaution checklist...
Will check it tonight...
is thr anything to be done for simonk esc's in specific?
Quote from: VTOLkarthik on March 17, 2015, 07:54:26 PM
Is it ok to connect to pc wen the apm is connected via battery...
one more situation:
apm will go to esc calibration mode(in this situation apm will not have control and throttle directly control ESC) if you put throttle high and restart apm two times(resetting will occur if you connect to pc), then motors should spin if you give throttle without arming.
Quote from: VTOLkarthik on March 17, 2015, 09:22:23 PM
is thr anything to be done for simonk esc's in specific?
for flying?
nothing other than calibration.
Restart meaning reconnecting battery?
Restarting (Power Cycling) APM,
Means:
Reconnecting Battery or
Reconnecting to PC or
Clicking Reset button on APM
Ok.. Will try it n see...
I checked it...
Pre arm is disabled but I dint knw why I am nt able to arm
Throttle_min was in d mid so reduced it to zero but stil not able to arm...
I reduced throttle end point from 100(default) to around 70 or so motor spinned without arming but stoped.. No response nw...
can you see "ARMED" message in mission planner as in your replay 190 or Red Solid LED In APM?
Yesterday I was not anle to do it... Will check it today n wil let u knw...
wen I connect to PC and run the motors through the Tx all the motors run at different time, guess it can be corrected by trims..
But if I remove the USB cable it doesnt get armed!
Need help..!
Hi Harish from Thane
I am new to this club
will you help me in getting some one from Thane who will go for RC plane flying tomorrow near Thane.
Thanks & Regards
Harish
09819093699
I am not anywhere near tat place and its irrelevant to this post as well...
did motor test and it works well at 15% throttle...
but i hav no idea why apm doesnt arm when I remove the USB cable
I'm just reading ur thread today, so i don't know what ur problem is , can u elaborate? , is ur apm not arming even after disabling pre arm ? , ND from where did u buy it ?
Guys its working! I hav no idea hw but it is!!! Maybe I elevated the gps...
But I hav one small prob, all motors run at around 10% except motor 4 which runs like at 20% or more...
should I have to trim or is thr any prob?
The reason is because the apm was tilted to one side since I had put foam in the bottom as the vibration dampner...
I removed but d apm sits little towards left like in d pic...
Check the video..
https://youtu.be/rHOQN13U-9c (https://youtu.be/rHOQN13U-9c)
Do another esc calibration, for the motor problem if that doesn't work , just reset all parameters ND do the calibration again
Twice I did esc calibration, dint work..
ill do the whole thing once again with apm mounted on the quad..
btw how to erase d eeprom?
Go to the all parameters section of mission planner , on the right u will have the reset all parameters option
Tuk it for a spin and it was really gud!!!
but no video, ill take one if possible..
Hav one issue though..
wen I give throttle and fix it at 60 to 70% it keeps coming down..
but is stable! :thumbsup:
Here is the video!
https://youtu.be/4p49oyEJtEw (https://youtu.be/4p49oyEJtEw)
with canopy video on the way...!
with canopy!
its too heavy though!
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lSBTY4KkdPs (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lSBTY4KkdPs)