Building APM 2.52 Quadcopter with ST360 kit

Started by santanucus, July 02, 2015, 02:53:45 AM

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santanucus

Yes Sir ! I got the ST360 kit with frame and motors from QK. And rest of the items either from QK or from RcMumbai or eBay.

Due to my fault, one motor of the kit got damaged because I used a longer screw. But an exact replacement is not available. So I went for the ST2210 available in QK. When I got it, I found it that its a bit different from those in the kit...like the shaft size and need to use prop adapters etc. But still it works reasonably well. But maybe a replacement by a motor similar to the kit would have worked better.

santanucus

#51
Here is an updated parts list.

I posted the initial components list in my first post. Since then I had to get a few more things as and when I required the same. The complete list is as below:

1. APM 2.52 => http://www.quadkopters.com/product/flight-controllers/apm-2-52/
2. ST360 kit => http://www.quadkopters.com/product/rtf-kit-and-frames/st360-kit/ .This includes the frame, 4 motors, 4 propellers etc.
2A. ST2210 Motor => http://www.quadkopters.com/product/brushless-motors/st2210-1050kv-brusless-motor/  (Note: I required this motor because I damaged a motor in the kit by using a long M3 screw. Not an identical motor but working well)
3. uBlox 6M GPS With Cover => http://www.quadkopters.com/product/flight-controllers/ublox-6m-gps-with-cover/
4. Multirotor 4IN1 ESC(4*30A) => http://rcmumbai.com/index.php/product/multirotor-4in1-esc430a/
5. Flysky 9x 2.4GHz 9CH Transmitter WITH RECEIVER => http://rcmumbai.com/index.php/product/flysky-9x-2-4ghz-9ch-transmitter/
6. Power Distribution Board => http://www.quadkopters.com/product/flight-controllers/power-distribution-board-100a/ (I did not use this)
7. Turnigy 2200 mAH 3S 25C Lipo pack (will need a number of these or higher mAH batteries)
8. IMAX B6 Skyrc => http://rcmumbai.com/index.php/product/imax-b6-skyrc-original/
9. Velcro Hook and Loops, Zip ties from eBay
10. Hex screw driver set=> http://www.ebay.in/itm/271568037218?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649
11. 3.5mm Gold Connectors => http://www.quadkopters.com/product/connectors/3-5mm-gold-connectors-10-pairs/
12. Male to Male Servo Leads => http://www.quadkopters.com/product/connectors/male-to-male-servo-lead-jr-10cm-10pcs/
13. M3x16 Socket Head Screw=> http://www.quadkopters.com/product/hardware-and-accessories/m316-socket-head-screw/  (using this caused one motor to go bad. But it was useful elsewhere)
14. M3x8 Nylon Screw=> http://www.quadkopters.com/product/hardware-and-accessories/m38-nylon-screw/
15. M3 Nylon Hex Nut => http://www.quadkopters.com/product/hardware-and-accessories/m3-nylon-hex-nut/
16. Heat Shrink => I got 3mm. Should have got a bigger size like 8mm maybe)
17. Glass fibre controller anti-vibration mount => http://www.quadkopters.com/product/flight-controllers/glass-fiber-flight-controller-anti-vibration-mount/
18. XT60 connectors => http://www.quadkopters.com/product/connectors/xt60-connectors/
19. M2.5 screws => from Chandni market, Kolkata (Kali da's shop). It was required because the screws that came with the replacement ST2210 motor were too small to go through the ST360 kit arms. Luckily the length of the screws were just right.
20. A hot glue gun from eBay
21. A foldable GPS stand from eBay (to mount the GPS/Compass)
22. A lock and lock lunch box to mount the frame and use it as undercarriage for battery
23. A 50-DVD box plastic cover to use it as a cover for the APM FC and Rx
24. A BQY LiPO Transmitter Battery for the FlySky 9x Transmitter as a replacement for the 8-AA battery pack. The futaba connector in this 11.1v 3S battery fits the battery connector. The battery is light weight and fits into the battery slot well. Be careful about connector polarity (black wire left in my case). Only today I read posts where people damaged their transmitters by connecting Tx with wrong polarity.
25. A 25w-50w soldering iron set with solder and flux, if you don't have one.
26. A banana to XT60 charger cable => As XT60 charging connector was not included in the charger
27. 3M Micropore tape => from local medicine shop. I guess nobody uses this tape but since I already had this at home, I used this.
28: 3M scotch tape
29. 3M double sided sticker tape
30. 16 AWG Wire and 2mm bullet connectors => ultimately did not require them in this build
31. Battery voltage indicator and Alarm=> http://www.quadkopters.com/product/battery-and-accessories/1s-8s-low-voltage-alarm-indicator/ (I already had this). Essential for checking batteries at the field. Also acts as alarm if target voltage is set and attached with battery discharge plug)

There are some items which would have been useful for this build but which I did not purchase. These would have made the quad better

- XT60 pigtail
- M3 Nylon spacers etc.


Since I did not have these items, I had to do without these.

This part list is meant for beginners who are starting this hobby from scratch. Those who are already in this hobby may have many components already available with them.

The source of most of these items are either Quadcopter.com or Rcmumbai.com who provide consistent service and very competitive prices. Rest were sourced from eBay or local stores.

I did not calculate the cost. The cost will vary anyway and in my case, since I am new into this hobby, I had to invest on many things which are required for beginners. The transmitter, for example, can be reused for other quads, if you get a matching Rx. The battery charger is also a one-time investment. Moreover, APM based quads are relatively costly. If I made a quad with a full ST360 kit which comes with KK flight controller and ESCs, that would probably cost less. A 6 channel Tx would have cost less too. The GPS is not compatible in such quads...so it would have saved GPS cost too.

santanucus

#52
Adding First Person View (FPV) capability

One of my objectives for using a quad is for aerial photography. But after seeing some great FPV videos, I also planned to include FPV capability in the quad. Although this frame is not specialized for FPV but that doesn't prevent anyone from attaching FPV capability.

The problem is that the cameras suitable for aerial photography like GoPro or Mobius are not particularly suitable for FPV due to transmission lags. But if you are not too addventurous and stay clear from obstacles at close quarters, lag won't be a big issue. Getting both FPV and action cameras would increase the weight of the quad too and the complications associated with lack of space in this small frame.

Then I came across Boscam TR1 which is an FPV camera with recording facility in SD Card. Although its 720p video is not as great as a Mobius or a GoPro it appeared decent in the samples which I saw online. On top of it, it came with an inbuilt 5.8 Ghz transmitter. So I am going for it. The drawback of this camera is that attaching an OSD with it is (probably) not possible. On the ground, a Boscam or Fatshark Goggle would be too costly at this moment...so I went for Quanum DIY goggles kit which includes a 4.3" monitor which can also be used separately.

Here are the components for FPV:

- Boscam TR1 Camera along with 5.8Ghz 200mW Transmitter => http://www.quadkopters.com/product/fpv-kit-and-accessories/boscam-tr1-camera-along-with-5-8ghz-200mw-transmitter/
- Boscam RC 805 5.8G A/V Receiver (Rx) => http://www.quadkopters.com/product/fpv-kit-and-accessories/boscam-rc-805-5-8g-av-receiver-rx/
- Circular Polarized Antenna Set (not mandatory but increases Tx and Rx range and quality) => http://www.quadkopters.com/product/fpv-kit-and-accessories/circular-polarized-antenna-set/
- Quanum DIY Goggles with monitor => http://hobbysea.com/products.php?458&cPath=27&sid=faa25f85a08dfc6b9d5ba0a2c324e953
- Turnigy 1450mAh 3S 11.1v Transmitter Lipoly Pack => http://www.ebay.in/itm/181775048930?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649  (purchased this for my Flysky 9x transmitter but I'd try this for the camera instead of camera with the main battery)

I'd probably need some more items like the vibration damper or something similar for the camera (not going for gimbal) etc. before I fix it on the quad.



Here's a video on assembling the Quanum DIY goggle kit:




santanucus

The final form

Finally the FPV feature was added to the quad. This completes the build. The final weight comes to 1252 gms.

Fitting the Boscam TR1 camera to the quad proved to be tricky. The camera has power socket at the bottom and it also gets heated up easily. After scouring the internet, I found the solutions. I downloaded a 3D print STL file from thingverse.com and got a mount printed from an online 3D printing service. I had to increase the mount hole size of the mount to fit in the camera and also drilled an M3 sized hole at the bottom to mount it on the quad. Since no screws are used to attach the camera to the mount, I'd probably use a ziptie to secure it. It should not fall anyway because the antenna is screwed through the mount hole.

Also, as suggested in some websites, I unscrewed the hex nut from the camera's antenna socket. I also attached a circular polarized antenna instead of the stock one. This apparently conducts the heat as well as the transmission better. I used an M3 screw and nut to secure the camera mount with the lunch box undercarriage.

I have used a separate Turnigy 1450 mAH battery (meant for Transmitters) for the camera. This saves the main battery. Also this battery has a JR connector, which fits with the camera's JR connector.

I had problems with fitting the circular polarized antenna vertically as the prop would have hit it. So I had to tilt it downwards. This may spoil a bit of the picture though. Maybe I'd consider a different kind of mount later to mount the camera at the front of the undercarriage instead of at the top.

The Quanum DIY goggle was assembled using the instructional video of Hobby King posted earlier. I also attached the 5.8 Ghz Receiver and also the battery with the goggle casing using tapes. This makes it a bit heavy and it tends to slide down one's face. Maybe I'd have to do something about it later. For now, its quite usable.

That finishes the APM based FPV Quad with ST360 kit and lots of jugaad.










Swapnil

Santanu, do you have the IMU logs for this quad? I want to compare the accelerometer data. I have bad vibrations on my quad and would like to know if that's normal for this frame.

santanucus

No, I don't have the logs. In fact I crashed this quad due to my mistake and have now transferred all the parts to a new frame. However, in the new frame (SK450 Glass fibre frame) the vibration is too much with almost the same configuration and I have to figure out why it is so. But that has to wait till December because of my other engagements. The ST360 was very stable and there was hardly any vibration. The arms were very rigid. But the arms in SK450 is not so. My ST360 quad was a bit overweight due to the attached lunch box and all....maybe the vibration was a bit lower due to its weight? Have you tried prop and motor balancing?

lastRites

Since you mentioned a crash, have you checked for bent motor shafts? You can check the individual motors by spooling them up without the props. My quadcopter was reasonably vibration free, but after some crashes had vib issues which I solved by balancing the motors(I always balance my props too).
Lunch box? You eat your lunch out of cd cases? :P
It is the pervading law of all things organic and inorganic,
Of all things physical and metaphysical,
Of all things human and all things super-human,
Of all true manifestations of the head,
Of the heart, of the soul,
That the life is recognizable in its expression,
That form ever follows function. This is the law.

santanucus

One of my motors got damaged. I replaced that. The others are spinning properly. Can a motor with bent shaft still spin ok? Apparently the new motors are vibrating more :( I checked without the props. I'd have to check the balance of the motors and props too.

There is another possibility. The motors are attached on a motor mount on the new frame. In the ST360 frame, they used to be attached directly to the arm. I had to resort to some jugaad to attack the motors on the mount. That could also be causing the vibrations. Moreover, glass fibre frames like the new one are a bit more flexible. The previous one was very rigid. The difference in length also amplifies the vibration more. I think all these factors contributed together.

As for the CD cases...well...the lunch box is at the bottom of the frame and functions as undercarriage. That used to hold my batteries. The CD case covered the FC and other things on the top :)