DIY Budget Power Distribution Board

[yashodhanp]

So I finally decided to make my own Power Distribution Board on a budget for multirotors.  Completed the design and then made a toner transfer sheet and did the transfer on copper. Now will etch tomorrow and report back.

Size: 50 x 50mm

Costed me around Rs.40-50

Suggestions Welcome

Design



Toner Transfer Complete


Regards

[kiran rc]

Nice DIY

[yashodhanp]

Thank You.

I am going to use Hydrogen Peroxide + Vinegar + Salt to etch my boards

[yashodhanp]

UPDATE:

Etching in Process :




Etching Complete and Removed Toner:




Comments and Suggestions will be appreciated

Regards

[shreeyak]

Well, for an even more cheap and easy PDB, one can get a double side pcb, cut out a small square, solder all +connections to one side and all ground connections to d other 

[sooraj.palakkad]

@shreeyak, the pdb ideas you shared is good

I used copper clad as bottom plate with integrated pdb in my build.

[miginstruments]

Nice build and finish. I had my own PCBs built not a PDB but for some other purpose. I used Ferrous Chloride for itching. Your combination of H2O2+vinegar+salt is new to me. So please tell me how is the performance of your combination. Plus I used Laser printed circuit and then iron it for a long time to print it on to the copper clad. you know its a long and troublesome job. And once we remove the paper we are not sure about the print. So I am looking for some alternatives. The thing is I cannot go for hand printing it through a permanent marker as my circuits are pretty complex. Please help me out if you have some better and easy idea. Thanks in Advance.

[yashodhanp]

@Shreeyak... yes.. true, but i wanted something that was simpler and a little bit more refined:P

[yashodhanp]

@migininstruments... The Vinegar + H2O2 + Salt Process is a lot cleaner the FeCl3.

I have Listed out the Pros and Cons Below:

Pros:
1. Materials are extremely Easy and Cheap to come by. ( Though i have heard commercial FeCl3 is even Cheaper per kilogram)
2. It is a lot less Hazardous (I could put bare my hands into the solution.)
3. Since the solution is Clear it is very easy to monitor the progress
4. Easy to Dispose off.;
5. Doesn't Stain clothing/Marble etc.
6. Easy to predict times once you get the hang of it.

Cons:
1. Solution is not Re-usable
2. The Chemical Cocktail must be just right to get the reaction going.
3. One must keep rubbing the board to remove the scum.
4. Solution May need to be changed once.
5. Reaction can be very weirdly unpredictable.

On average my etching times varied between 1 Hour and 2 Hours depending on the amount of copper to be removed.

I used the following cocktail:
1:1 Household Vinegar and 6% Hydrogen Peroxide (aka 20 vol H2O2)
Salt to Taste (Till the reaction fizzes by itself)

Hope This Helps.

Regards
Yashodhan Pasari 

[shreeyak]

Refined, truly. You can also add round marks indicating places to solder and a clear indication of -,+ and a hole in the middle.

But simplest is the double sided pcb piece

[miginstruments]

All the Cons of FeCl2 comes as a part of package. I had to use Gloves, Plastic container for itching, it reacts very quickly with metals, It also reacts quickly to atmosphere, of course my bathroom tiles ve lost their original color. It is also a bit difficult to get it, though I had some contacts that made me to get it easily, but even then the seller asked me what am I going to do with it. But the Itching time is not so long and is not even unpredictable. It ll take around 15-20 Mins, but its really a dirty process. I also asked about alternatives of Imprinting Circuits onto Copper Clad. Something that ll be very helpful for me. Thanks.

[sooraj.palakkad]

Ferric chloride is harder to get
I can get it in electronic shop for 25Rs per 75Gms !!!

For transferring circuits to clad board cleanly you can opt UV transfer.

[miginstruments]

Well in Karnataka almost all kind of Chemicals are difficult to buy.

[yashodhanp]

H2o2 can be purchased from the medical store.

I use kodak high gloss photo paper and a canon laser printer to print it.. The paper comes off extremely extremely cleanly without the common rubbig and hours of soaking problem. Mine takes a few seconds.

[miginstruments]

So you too used the ironing process to imprint. And the photo paper is it like normal paper or a thick one.

[yashodhanp]

i use 180gsm photo paper (pretty thick)

[sooraj.palakkad]

I use OHP sheets.

[miginstruments]

Okay, Thanks Guys for all your help. I am about to build a PCB will keep the things in mind. Thanks Again.

[shreeyak]

There is one more chemical mix used to etch pcb. A mix of H2O2 and HCl acid I think. Google it. It is extremely corrosive, but can be reused endlessly and is very quick. Green in colour.

What is OHP paper? That blue colour sheet?

[sooraj.palakkad]

No OHP paper is plastic - and is almost Heat resistant

[miginstruments]

@sooraj.palakkad What is UV Transfer can you send me some links. Thanks.

[shreeyak]

@sooraj, what process do you use for uv etching? What chemicals needed for making the photosensitive layer? How costly is it?

[yashodhanp]

We need photo resist film for the UV process. Its not usually available locally. After applying the film, we must use an ohp film (laser printed) and shine a powerful UV light or even sun light.

Then it must be developed in sodium carbonate or sodium hydroxide. Then etch as normal.

Its expense depends more on how cheap one can get the film here.

By the way the HCl method is outright dangerous for etching. Will corrode literally everything. Might as well use ammonium persulphate.

Regards

[shreeyak]

Yes d HCl soln is extremely corrosive and will eat through any metal including nails.  Have to be careful but is cheap and endlessly reusable.
Where can I get the persulphate or how to make some on my own?

[yashodhanp]

You can get it from a chemical market.. But you might be shown the door due to its toxic nature. You cannot synthesise  it.

By the way, you will still need to add more acid and peroxide every once in a while and even oxygenate it to get back the copper chloride(the green liquid)