greeting rc people,,,

im gonna share a build log of my tricopter.....


the followed items i used for its build...

electronics n hardware

for flight controller
http://hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__54299__Hobbyking_KK2_1_5_Multi_rotor_LCD_Flight_Control_Board_With_6050MPU_And_Atmel_644PA.html

http://hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__27990__USBasp_AVR_Programming_Device_for_ATMEL_proccessors.html

for ESC n acc
the followed are the best  esc in its class as it run almost every firmware like simonK , Blheli and super cheap...

http://hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__15202__Hobby_King_20A_ESC_3A_UBEC.html
http://hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__68__PolyMax_3_5mm_Gold_Connectors_10_PAIRS_20PC_.html
http://hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__9681__Turnigy_Pure_Silicone_Wire_16AWG_1mtr_Red.html
http://hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__9680__Turnigy_Pure_Silicone_Wire_16AWG_1mtr_BLACK.html
http://hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__52865__Turnigy_50mm_Heat_Shrink_Tube_Clear_1mtr_.html

power distribution board
local available copper boards

for flashing
http://hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__27195__Atmel_Atmega_Socket_Firmware_Flashing_Tool.html
www.youtube.com/watch?v=gtvjTEcVwYE
or
www.youtube.com/watch?v=NZsT0agRZMY

motor
http://hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__25082__NTM_Prop_Drive_28_26_1000KV_235W_short_shaft_version_.html
http://hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__16719__NTM_Prop_Drive_28_Series_Accessory_Pack.html
these motors i prefer coz during crash if shaft bends then it can b easily replaced...

Rudder mech
http://hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__17322__Turnigy_TGY_9018MG_Metal_Gear_Servo_2_5kg_13g_0_10.html
http://hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__8432__Front_Wheel_Steering_Arm_Mount_Set_40mm_5sets_.html
mild steel wire 2mm dia
one more part but i dont know its name n link
pizza stand




tx n rx
http://hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__8991__Turnigy_9X_9Ch_Transmitter_w_Module_8ch_Receiver_Mode_1_v2_Firmware_.html

some other tools which can b illustrated from the pics...

i do know some tools n some other required stuffs are not covered in the above list ....so plz omit...

the centre plate laser cut



wooden booms 16x16x400 cubic mm.

some icecream sticks

so lets start building

lets start with wooden booms


with the help of my HOT AIR GUN
this modification will help in tight motor mounting grip via zip ties and will reduce some vibration too from spinning motor...


done shrinking to all 3 booms

for front2 arms
drill hole of dia 2.5mm ..30mm away from the end as shown in pic..


for tail boom(rudder arm)


sand here with triangular bastard file or round one


make sure u drill the holes exactly perpendicular....otherwise u may not find the booms in one plane when streched....thus motors wont b mounted perpendicular....

im trying to make the pics as self explanatory... so plz omit if i go wrong in yours opinion.

center plates n their modification



drill hole of approx 15mm dia or drill a small hole and increase the dia by using scissor as poke or reamer


drill hole exactly in the centre of 1,2,3 & 4. as in pic

Best of luck

Where did you laser cut the ply center plates ? How much does it cost ?
Why did you chose plywood - as it is cheap

QuoteBest of luck Thumbs Up

Where did you laser cut the ply center plates ? How much does it cost ?
Why did you chose plywood - as it is cheap Huh?

@ sooraj...
thnks...
done the laser cutting locally here....its charges around 100 for both plates @ 10 per min...

i do have carbon fibre , g10 sheets
but i choose ply coz its good to use wooden, easy available,can be easily n cheaply replaced on crashes ,can bring any mods on ones requirement on ply ,cheap 600 for 4x6 sq ft..
cheap for R&D...n ecofriendly..

drilled the top plate


for bottom plate n its mod
reqd stuff
1. CA solution
2. soldering iron , wire and flux.
3. 1ft long red silicon wire x 3 pieces
4. 1ft long black silicon wire x 3 pieces
5. JST female wire connector for powering LED(optional)
6. male servo lead remove the signal wire using blade.(for voltage alarm )



   

with the help of CA solution paste the pieces of copper board...
if u have any used/damaged 3s lipo, cut out the wire as i did...from the below pics u can have idea about it...

u can take the battery connection straight to tail boom without drilling in the bottom plate as i did..



i pasted the coro rectangular sheet for battery ....this will help in keeping battery tight..
use Velcro battery strap

make sure u solder red at red terminal and black at black

wires, 3.5mm connector, heat shrinks work
items used
1. xt60 male connector
2. 3.5mm golden connector
3. 4mm n 5mm heat shrink
4. i used third hand
5. hobby knife
6. lighter


for ref use the following vid

www.youtube.com/watch?v=4pPvjsK8vEg

soldering work



all work done should look like this...


put the front four wires through the hole drilled on topplate as shown in the pic..


lets assemble..
m3x25mm hex nutbolt with washers
2.5mm allenkey

Looks like you will have a maiden by evening

Expecting a good explanation on yaw mechanism .

Hi Manish!

I just maidened my 360 Quad (APM 2.6). Flies great!
I'll be doing some trimming and fine-tuning later today.

It'll be really awesome if we could get together for flying!

asssembled all

Quote from: cyromanish on December 18, 2014, 12:35:31 PM

Nice build but dude add something in between those 2 copper boards. If anything shorts those 2 plates then boom and smoke...

Hot glue or nice big blob of fevicol.

the most important part rudder mech
















this is just temporary...
use CA solution at the end of shaft....
video
www.youtube.com/watch?v=t8zLXSg4el0&list=UUNPLxBpvlb-IdGv6q__ikmA

Awesome build

video is private

@ rcneil
thnks

@ satyagupta

im new to youtube,, i just made it public ,,,,

neat and detailed build log     

instead of drilling i prefered heating a small metal rod...
arranged the arm and steering assembly... inserted hot metal inside the plastic...
got the insertion, then i tightened the servo mounting screw ...some inside material came off..
carefully removed the spilled out plastic mass...



with the help of servo mounting screw and four head screw driver. after tightening pour some CA for extra strength..

make a hole at the corner by same heated rod....here u can fix Z bend, ball joint

paste the last corner with any glue,,, i choose fevicol so that i can remove it when i want..


for servo mounting

take a rectangular ply sheet
i took 2mmx16mmx50mm....


take the servo and make marking...

dont cut servo wire as shown in pic



using hobby knife, scrap out the marked spots.




pour tiny drops of CA solution at corners so that it can stay in position..




im gonna to make Z bend at the end of wire...

hope u guys liked my ideas about the yaw build for tri...

feel free to PM me ur suggestions....

nice built... great work

Thanks for the fully explained yaw mechanism
good work

using friendship rubber band...






kk2 mounting
do not need to open the centre plate,,, i have many centre plates ,,,so i used one of them for the build log...
using double sided tape

plastic ware can b bought
http://www.quadkopters.com/product/hardware-and-accessories/m3-nylon-hex-nut/
http://www.quadkopters.com/product/hardware-and-accessories/m38-nylon-screw/
http://www.quadkopters.com/product/hardware-and-accessories/nylon-space-m325/



cut the icecream sticks and use the spring sleeve


about my ESC's
im using simonk firmware
how to do flashing is explained in the above thread....
cut the esc wire of motor side so that no excess wire lenght should b there

Hi manish,

I think the yaw could be little weaker in your setup. especially the arm connecting the motor hinge.
though this might not completely put your copter down, it might surely create problem, you could use my setup here.
sand the side of the nose gear mount and the arm and stick both of them together with medium cyano.
See pics.