Hello to model boat fanatics, I'm here with a simple DIY radiator for water cooling your boat ESCs.
Very simple, less number of components, effective and more importantly, not expensive at all! I didn't spend a rupee.
Materials required:
1) Small piece of aluminium sheet metal (1mm or 2mm)
2) Telescopic antenna
3) Heat sink compound (available at electronics stores)
4) plastic/rubber/silicone hose for plumbing (available at aquarium shops)
I used a 3mm diameter tube, cut in half and weakly super glued to the aluminium base which is trimmed to fit my ESC.
Then, apply some heat sink compound to increase heat conductivity, a good application onto all seems and gaps must be ensured.
the tubes are sanwiched with another piece of aluminium held in place with a small screw.
A small part of the heat shrink on the ESC heat sink must be cut, make sure to leave a 3mm perimeter around the cut, so that the heat shrink doesnt lose it's integrety.
apply some heat sink compound on both the radiator base and the ESC heat sink plate, make sure of a neat spread for proper conduction.
Press them together and super glue around the contact seem. do not apply too much glue, may drip into the ESC.
prepping before spraying on a coat of paint.
The finished product, an inexpensive water cooling radiator for your ESC!
Very good {:)} {:)}
Only thing I don't like is using super glue between the ESC & Heat exchanger. It is too permanent, and has a little insulation effect. Also, if the Al can be highly polished it will work better
Installed in my air boat.
I used 3.5mm synthetic rubber hose and a couple of ''L'' connectors and a ''T'' connector for the plumbing.
Don't paint. Get it anodized
Quote from: sanjayrai55 on July 02, 2013, 09:16:57 PM
Very good {:)} {:)}
Only thing I don't like is using super glue between the ESC & Heat exchanger. It is too permanent, and has a little insulation effect. Also, if the Al can be highly polished it will work better
the super glue goes on the perimeter of the contact patch, in beeween, there is heat sink compound for conduction. and yes, the aluminium base has to be smooth, i used a 600 grit wet sandpaper to polish it.
Quote from: sanjayrai55 on July 02, 2013, 09:18:03 PM
Don't paint. Get it anodized
i'm very cheap, sir ji :giggle:
Anjan bhaiya how did you cut such thick aluminium and trim it?
You can anodize aluminium at your house yes it will cost a bit more but is effective and looks better than paint. But for this application i dont think its needed. For you next hydro which will be better than this for looks you can anodize ;D
Quote from: RCNeil21 on July 02, 2013, 09:34:47 PM
Anjan bhaiya how did you cut such thick aluminium and trim it?
You can anodize aluminium at your house yes it will cost a bit more but is effective and looks better than paint. But for this application i dont think its needed. For you next hydro which will be better than this for looks you can anodize ;D
Used a bench vise and a hack saw ;D
Yes, working on designing the hydro, not going too well :banghead:
Zip tie the heat sink instead of super gluing it. :P It looks a tad clumsy, but isn't permanent, and you can take it off when you fry the esc ;D
Quote from: lastRites on July 03, 2013, 12:32:34 AM
Zip tie the heat sink instead of super gluing it. :P It looks a tad clumsy, but isn't permanent, and you can take it off when you fry the esc ;D
I can take this off too, it's glued to the heat shrink ;D
Even so, zipties are a better idea to CA. :thanks: