Simple DIY water-cooling radiator for ESCs

Started by AnjanBabu, July 02, 2013, 08:56:43 PM

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AnjanBabu

Hello to model boat fanatics, I'm here with a simple DIY radiator for water cooling your boat ESCs.

Very simple, less number of components, effective and more importantly, not expensive at all! I didn't spend a rupee.

Materials required:
1) Small piece of aluminium sheet metal (1mm or 2mm)
2) Telescopic antenna
3) Heat sink compound (available at electronics stores)
4) plastic/rubber/silicone hose for plumbing (available at aquarium shops)
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AnjanBabu

I used a 3mm diameter tube, cut in half and weakly super glued to the aluminium base which is trimmed to fit my ESC.

Then, apply some heat sink compound to increase heat conductivity, a good application onto all seems and gaps must be ensured.
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AnjanBabu

the tubes are sanwiched with another piece of aluminium held in place with a small screw.

A small part of the heat shrink on the ESC heat sink must be cut, make sure to leave a 3mm perimeter around the cut, so that the heat shrink doesnt lose it's integrety.
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AnjanBabu

apply some heat sink compound on both the radiator base and the ESC heat sink plate, make sure of a neat spread for proper conduction.

Press them together and super glue around the contact seem. do not apply too much glue, may drip into the ESC.
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AnjanBabu

prepping before spraying on a coat of paint.

The finished product, an inexpensive water cooling radiator for your ESC!
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sanjayrai55

Very good  {:)} {:)}

Only thing I don't like is using super glue between the ESC & Heat exchanger. It is too permanent, and has a little insulation effect. Also, if the Al can be highly polished it will work better

AnjanBabu

Installed in my air boat.

I used 3.5mm synthetic rubber hose and a couple of ''L'' connectors and a ''T'' connector for the plumbing.
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sanjayrai55


AnjanBabu

Quote from: sanjayrai55 on July 02, 2013, 09:16:57 PM
Very good  {:)} {:)}

Only thing I don't like is using super glue between the ESC & Heat exchanger. It is too permanent, and has a little insulation effect. Also, if the Al can be highly polished it will work better
the super glue goes on the perimeter of the contact patch, in beeween, there is heat sink compound for conduction. and yes, the aluminium base has to be smooth, i used a 600 grit wet sandpaper to polish it.
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AnjanBabu

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RCNeil21

#10
Anjan bhaiya how did you cut such thick aluminium and trim it?
You can anodize aluminium at your house yes it will cost a bit more but is effective and looks better than paint. But for this application i dont think its needed. For you next hydro which will be better than this for looks you can anodize ;D
Build planes like feathers rather than tanks, both handle bullets equally well.

AnjanBabu

Quote from: RCNeil21 on July 02, 2013, 09:34:47 PM
Anjan bhaiya how did you cut such thick aluminium and trim it?
You can anodize aluminium at your house yes it will cost a bit more but is effective and looks better than paint. But for this application i dont think its needed. For you next hydro which will be better than this for looks you can anodize ;D
Used a bench vise and a hack saw ;D

Yes, working on designing the hydro, not going too well :banghead:
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lastRites

Zip tie the heat sink instead of super gluing it. :P  It looks a tad clumsy, but isn't permanent, and you can take it off when you fry the esc ;D
It is the pervading law of all things organic and inorganic,
Of all things physical and metaphysical,
Of all things human and all things super-human,
Of all true manifestations of the head,
Of the heart, of the soul,
That the life is recognizable in its expression,
That form ever follows function. This is the law.

AnjanBabu

Quote from: lastRites on July 03, 2013, 12:32:34 AM
Zip tie the heat sink instead of super gluing it. :P  It looks a tad clumsy, but isn't permanent, and you can take it off when you fry the esc ;D
I can take this off too, it's glued to the heat shrink ;D
Even so, zipties are a better idea to CA.  :thanks:
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